aha i hear ya!

 

yeah, same in reverse...? No fab and special tools required...

I learned the hard way to leave belts on while you break the bolts...

Damn 22R power steering pump pulleys...

 

That's a good improvement. I couldn't count the number of times I've used mine, but when the time comes to make a new one, I'll do what you did. Thanks

 

If you take the belts off save them. You can put it around the pulley and put a pair of vice-grips pinching the belt as close to the pulley as possible. Have someone hold the other loop or put it around something. Thats done it for me a few times but don't do it if you want to re-use your belt.

 

I plan to fab this tool up in the next few days. FYI, here is an online source for the bolts that is fairly inexpensive.

http://www.boltdepot.com/

 

I've already bought the parts for mine! $14 at Home Depot for everything, bolts were less than $5. Boltdepot.com looks cheap until you see the shipping which brings the total over $10.

 

I'd love to know if any of you happen to live in the Las Vegas area and have one of these great tools I could borrow???

Or, happen to know where I could obtain one?

I've tried the starter bumping technique and the Socket & Breaker Bar keep slipping off and the bolt head is on the verge of stripping. I have also tried placing the manual Transmission in 5th gear and using a 6 foot, 3/4" diameter pipe to break it free and no such luck!!!

I'm only moderately mechanically inclined and low on funds to purchase the materials for this tool, much less fabricating the tool...

ANY HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Jason Colvin
1993 Toyota Pickup, 4 Cylinder, (22R/ RE?), 4WD, Manual Trans, AC, etc. etc...

 

I'm nowhere near Vegas but this looks like a question I can answer...

22R = Carbureted
22RE = Fuel Injected

 

Making the tool only requires a hack saw and a drill. It can be made for only about $15 and it makes the job easy. I'd also get a new crank bolt from Toyota since yours is either way overtorqued or corroded. Well worth the $5 or $10 that it costs.

 

Thanks this tool really helped me. but it started to flex and bend when i tried to use it on my cam sprockets. here is another idea.

3 foot of 2" wide by 1/4" thick metal stock. at one end drill 3 holes. 2 for the large bolts and a 1" hole in the middle of thoes to reach the cam sprocket bolt.

 

Thanks all... I ended up forcing a 3/4" impact type socket w/ 1/2" drive breaker bar braced under the passenger side frame rail.

Instead of just a quick "bump", I gave it a generous "bump", about a second and a half and it broke free.

I will take your advice though and purchase the new bolt as I easily put over a couple hundred pounds of force on that thing using a 4 foot pipe with the breaker bar and socket!!!

 

Thanks for this info.
Tool works great.

 

Since I referenced this thread many times while trying to get my bolts off, I thought I would post the "tool" that I made.

My 1/2" impact wouldn't budge them (can't remember if I tried it before takeing the belt off), and adding heat with the impact didn't work either. I was going to try to make a tool like was made here, but didn't have the materials on hand. I decided to try to make my own strap wrench using a 2x3, clamps, and the old timing belt.

Worked like a charm! A 3' cheater pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar loosened them right up! YOu have to use some good metal clamps that you can tighten down really tight. I first used two speed clamps and they started to slip, but then the good metal clamps bit into it more and held perfect.

 

Nice job getting those off! I would have never thought of that one. That works in a pinch, but you should also invest in this tool. Buying the bar stock is a little spendy, but I've used it so many times now. Truly multipurpose. Works on both my 3vze and 22re, great for cams and cranks, awesome for flywheel bolts.

 

Wow! that is a neat "tool". Wish I had though of that too. Might have been better than the chain system I used. Next time I''ll use this though!

 

Just so you know: the cams have a 27mm hex cast into the middle; you can put a wrench on that and not worry about damaging the sprockets etc. Also, you'll be putting the torque right where it will loosen the bolt, rather than trying to push that torque through the "knock pins" that keep the sprockets from rotating on the cam shaft. You don't want that wrench to lean on the aluminum head, but I had no trouble leaning it on a 2x4 that contacted the edge of the engine bay. 27mm is not a common wrench size in the US, but 1-1/16" is easy to find and will work just as well.

 

Big thank you to Bugs 1961 for posting his tool design. I have a 22RE 2 X 4, that I had to modify the design a little in order to use it. I didn't have enough clearance with the 3' length so I changed it to 2'. Worked just fine. Don't know who installed the crank pulley bolt before, but luckily when it fell off it was laying in my driveway where I just happened to spot it before I drove off.

 

Here's another one based on the original design - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52277107

 

This post is worth its weight in gold!! THANK YOU!!!!

 

I have used a simple strap wrench on mine. Worked great.