BajaRunner

Looks like tomorrow I will be buying a set of high strength, impact sockets. I snapped two Craftsman sockets today trying to get my crank bolt off, to replace timing chain. What a bummer.

I had someone bump start the motor as I held the breaker bar on, wedged up on the drivers side frame rail, and after 4 tries, 2 sockets split in two.

I'm really hoping I don't shear the bolt. Is that a possibility? I've used PB blaster and heated it up...

myyota

At least you can return the sockets for new ones. (LOL)

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Wow! I would NOT get in there and hold a breaker bar while someone cranked it - hope you were wearing some serious eye/face protection.

I've now done this a few times and what works well is using bailing wire or a long zip zipe or two, to secure the breaker bar to the bottom of the PASSENGER SIDE frame rail (you used top of drivers side I imagine?).

Use an impact socket, YES! I used a regular craftsman one the first time and it created some serious stress marks on it - looked cool though

Good luck!


And yes, you can round off the bolt so be careful.

92 TOY

i've learned my lesson as well with the sockets.

stuff like that you definitely need a 1/2'' drive impact socket on.

so far......
my crankshaft bolt on 22re......off with breaker bar / cheater bar / 1/2'' drive 19mm impact socket and the pulley being held tight with webbing.

crankshaft bolt on my son's 3vze....same method...webbing and same tools

cam pulley bolts on son's 3vze.....pulley holder tool wedged / 1/2'' drive 17mm imact socket breaker bar and cheater bar.

so 4 SOB / PITA bolts all with me own hands.

92 TOY

let me add to the 1st line.

taking off the bolts holding the cam pulleys on the 3vze......pulley holder wedged tight....engine on the stand.....me ducking behind the engine....my son ducking behind the other side.......when the bolt broke loose the pulley holder went flying about 8 feet striking the fender of his 4runner (no damage, no injuries). for the 2nd bolt, after we wedged the tool again, i tied it off loosely to the engine hoist, much like you would do if you were winching someone and throw a wet towel or something on the line.....and no movement this time.

bottom line....you are dealing with alot of forces here (not a physics major, so i'm just gonna say "forces") and there is no need to get injured here. breaking tools is one thing, but breaking your face is extra bad...obviously.

scope103

You know, once you get that bolt off, you're eventually going to want to put it back on. And the torque is in the 120-130 range (it's 181 on the 3VZE). How are you going to keep the crankshaft from turning when you tighten it up with your torque wrench?

You're going to need a tool to hold the crankshaft, so think how much better off you'd be if you just made one now, instead of later. There are lots of very clever tools described in this forum. Some require a little welding, mine only needs an angle grinder.

Think how much easier it would be to get the bolt off; no hurtling breaker bars and no exploded sockets. (Okay, an impact socket would be good to have to take it off; it sounds like you made need to push on it pretty hard. My "holding tool" is 3 feet long and I can put plenty of torque on it.)

Just one man's opinion.

xxxtreme22r

it takes more than 120-130 ft-lbs to break that free. Why? people forget that thing is locktited in place from the factory, not to mention millions of heat cycles. When putting it back on it also gets locktited but its wet and not locked yet, putting the vehicle in 5th gear and e-brake on with the wheels chocked is all that will be needed to torque it back on.

xxxtreme22r

I did show you how to more easily do that when it was on the stand. all you would have had to do is wedge a breakerbar or something on the rear of the motor on the flywheel bolts and the stand itself, it would have prevented the crank from spinning.

Probably would have worked too for the cam sprockets too if the timing belt was still on.

blake.nemitz

well for one doesnt the cam have flats on it to grab it with a wrench, and for some like me the putting it in gear and chocking tires didnt work my clutch just slipped, just make sure you use a 6point socket so you dont fudge the head and get it stuck in there

sb5walker

Good advice and cautions already given and well to be heeded.

I've never heard of that bolt breaking - it's a LOT stronger than those garbage Crapsman sockets. But I have heard of the bolt being rounded, so take care to use good sockets and keep them on straight. I the past I've used tools to hold the pulley when breaking loose the bolt, but the most recent time I used the starter bump method with a 1/2" impact socket and fairly long MAC breaker bar. x2 on the warnings not to try to hold it - unless you want to lose a body part. But tying it in place is a good idea.

When working with high forces, leverage is your friend. 3' is ok, but 4' or more is better. Use a metal pipe extension on your breaker bar.

Tool links here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51555671

BajaRunner

Thanks for the tips. In response to it being dangerous to be standing there holding the breaker bar in place, well, I had no choice. I tried a few times to do it by myself, but the socket and bar would just pop off instantly. Plus, I have heard a lot of people doing the same!? ANyways, yes I will attach it using wire or possibly.. Duct tape, or rope

I have tried putting the truck in 5th gear, 4hi, e brake on, wheels chocked and it stays put, but I can't get the bolt off still. It just sits there. The torque I believe is 116 for the 22re, which I know I can get, since the head bolts for the FJ40 I did were pretty high up there.

What is this "tool" you speak of scope?

BajaRunner

WTFFFF!

Borrowed an impact wrench, and it still wont budge. Big breaker bar with cheater, nope. Bump start doesn't do anything anymore.... Great.

sb5walker

Suggest making one of the tools to hold the pulley - make sure it is 4' to 5' long, and use an impact socket with a breaker bar and extension so IT is 4-5' long, and make that leverage work for you. Something will give - just hope it's the bolt.

You are doing lefty loosey, right?

iamsuperbleeder

I musta gotten lucky with mine... mine broke free with a 2ft breaker bar, the truck in 5th gear, and using a cheap socket at that

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Baja, how you been?

When I went in to do my rebuild, I noticed that mine spun right off with a 3/8'' drive and 19 6point.... why?>>>> BECAUSE the dork cut the flange on it the first time, then put it back on after doing the timing chain at around 80K.

I know it's not ideal, but if it comes to this, I think you'd rather cut the flange rather than get a completely rounded bolt out.(someone I know on this site had a traveling mechanic come over with an air wrench and all kinds of tools and left with the bolt COMPLETELY rounded out like a marble.... So, LIKE I SAID, worse case scenario....

Get the radiator, shroud, etc., out of the way, then take a smaller high strength grinding disc and shave off the bottom half of the flange washer as close to the thread level as possible. Then, it should spin right out with a 1/2" drive and 19 Shorty/Hex.

I believe Philbert did so(??), and so have a few others. OH YEAH.....'WEAR PROTECTION FOR YOUR EYES AND FACE!" LOL.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

ps> I believe I still have the Crank bolt that was 'ground/chiseled' off....I'll take a pic or find it in my Photobucket so you know what I am talking about. AND AGAIN....WORSE CASE SCENARIO, guys...I'm not saying this should be the very next thing he tries, promise, lol.

BajaRunner

Walker: I found a 4ft piece of 1/4" rectangle stock and put it on my breaker bar. I have the wheels chocked, etc, and the car doesn't move or anything...but I am scared something wrong will budge. ;(

The impact wrench has 500 ft-lbs capability, but it doesn't mention at what PSI. I have 200 psi running right now to it, and it doesn't do crap except round off the shoulders.

I need to look up these "tools" people have made...any links?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Here ya go....and YES, not only did they use the same one again, ....they didn't use locktite and, well, as some know on my build; The harmonic was totally wasted and the cog key almost was worn all the way through(1/16" left before CABLOOIE!, LOL). Not to mention, now that I look at it....looks like they impact chiseled it off!!! WTH? lol. Anyway, you get the idea. It takes all the pressure off the flange washer,....or at least enough to allow it to come off with FAR LESS torque. ......................

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Guys(??).... that mechanic Guru guy who did my propane trick.... He said he uses this special 'Gorilla Socket' to get those off(???), but the second it starts to slip, he reverts to either cutting it's flange, etc.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Had to use a similar thing to what Walker is saying, Baja, for my Pressure Plate bolts...the rest came off with an air/impact. That long of a breaker REALLY does make a huge difference. But, ...I think, in some cases, they get so frozen in there and or overtightened.... people end up rounding them out.

Sorry you're dealing with this.....STINKS!

Mark