Crank bolt 2, me 0 :D
#42
Baja,
I'm not trying to say "You can't do this without grinding or chiseling half the flange off"... Rather, I'm saying that it will NOT hurt anything, if you're careful enough to stop before you get to the crank.
I just need to ask, ...when you look at the picture I posted.... you understand why he did that, right? It's like one of those body-washers(they're bent in a rounded way, so that they provide tension as you tighten the nut, in places where Locking Washers weren't practical). THIS IS NO DIFFERENT, in many ways, other than the fact that it's one solid machined piece, unlike a separate washer.
I'm guessing that it's either locked on there with a combination of things(Moisture/rust, over torqued in the first place, too much locktite)....Or, he just over torqued it to the point that it skipped a thread and they've locked on top of each other. If it's truly seized in there, beyond any breaker bar or impact wrench...then you NEED to remove the pressure caused by that flange, by cutting it off on at least one side. Even as you get most of the way through, it will begin to take pressure off of it, ya know?
Really sorry you're dealing with this... ONE BOLT, holding everything else up!!!(been there, and it sucks! lol).
Watching,
Mark
PS> ANYONE, please correct me if I'm wrong... I don't want to steer him in a dangerous direction.... I've just never heard of shaving off this flange being more likely to cause more damage than torquing on it until it snaps off or strips out something.....???
I'm not trying to say "You can't do this without grinding or chiseling half the flange off"... Rather, I'm saying that it will NOT hurt anything, if you're careful enough to stop before you get to the crank.
I just need to ask, ...when you look at the picture I posted.... you understand why he did that, right? It's like one of those body-washers(they're bent in a rounded way, so that they provide tension as you tighten the nut, in places where Locking Washers weren't practical). THIS IS NO DIFFERENT, in many ways, other than the fact that it's one solid machined piece, unlike a separate washer.
I'm guessing that it's either locked on there with a combination of things(Moisture/rust, over torqued in the first place, too much locktite)....Or, he just over torqued it to the point that it skipped a thread and they've locked on top of each other. If it's truly seized in there, beyond any breaker bar or impact wrench...then you NEED to remove the pressure caused by that flange, by cutting it off on at least one side. Even as you get most of the way through, it will begin to take pressure off of it, ya know?
Really sorry you're dealing with this... ONE BOLT, holding everything else up!!!(been there, and it sucks! lol).
Watching,
Mark
PS> ANYONE, please correct me if I'm wrong... I don't want to steer him in a dangerous direction.... I've just never heard of shaving off this flange being more likely to cause more damage than torquing on it until it snaps off or strips out something.....???
#43
did u ever try tighten the bolt a bit, that seems to work some times to loosen up the bolt and miht break it free if its all seezed up...
if i was you i would take your front bumper off and get the big 1" impact from harbor freight and make the bolt come out...
if i was you i would take your front bumper off and get the big 1" impact from harbor freight and make the bolt come out...
#44
Hey 90.... I know, this is driving me crazy, and IT'S NOT EVEN MINE! hahhaa. Guess that's how the Toyota Fam sticks together, eh? lol
Just flashing back to my exhaust collector BOLT that the PO had put in....TOTALLY frozen... and it took me 30 Minutes to back it out(THANK GOD I was switching exhaust systems, CUZ IT MUNCHED the two studs and stud hole where he'd forced everything on!lol). I mention this because... when I FINALLY got it to break free, it continued to be a pain, because the locking washer he'd used on the BOLT(DORK) had locked itself to the exhaust flange, making the stripping of the bolt AND STUD THREADS even worse. When I got it out, it looked like this...........

Hard to tell by the pic, but it literally was smooth on one side like stainless sheet metal! lol. The double nut he welded ruined the other stud, and the third, the STOCK ONE, came right off! lol.
Just saying....isn't it possible, if he doesn't remove some of the pressure caused by the flange, that it could cause more damage "making it come off"???
Just flashing back to my exhaust collector BOLT that the PO had put in....TOTALLY frozen... and it took me 30 Minutes to back it out(THANK GOD I was switching exhaust systems, CUZ IT MUNCHED the two studs and stud hole where he'd forced everything on!lol). I mention this because... when I FINALLY got it to break free, it continued to be a pain, because the locking washer he'd used on the BOLT(DORK) had locked itself to the exhaust flange, making the stripping of the bolt AND STUD THREADS even worse. When I got it out, it looked like this...........

Hard to tell by the pic, but it literally was smooth on one side like stainless sheet metal! lol. The double nut he welded ruined the other stud, and the third, the STOCK ONE, came right off! lol.
Just saying....isn't it possible, if he doesn't remove some of the pressure caused by the flange, that it could cause more damage "making it come off"???
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; Oct 17, 2010 at 02:00 PM.
#45
PS> Baja, YOU'LL GET IT, don't give up....
But also, Check over the cover, really well, once you get into that. It's possible, like with mine, the guy might have overtightened many things... and in my case, he cracked the cover in 2 places, AND the chain was wearing into it as well. Got a brand new one for 60$, VERY worth it.
But also, Check over the cover, really well, once you get into that. It's possible, like with mine, the guy might have overtightened many things... and in my case, he cracked the cover in 2 places, AND the chain was wearing into it as well. Got a brand new one for 60$, VERY worth it.
#47
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
PS> Baja, YOU'LL GET IT, don't give up....
But also, Check over the cover, really well, once you get into that. It's possible, like with mine, the guy might have overtightened many things... and in my case, he cracked the cover in 2 places, AND the chain was wearing into it as well. Got a brand new one for 60$, VERY worth it.
But also, Check over the cover, really well, once you get into that. It's possible, like with mine, the guy might have overtightened many things... and in my case, he cracked the cover in 2 places, AND the chain was wearing into it as well. Got a brand new one for 60$, VERY worth it.
I just put everything back, which only took me an hour, and tomorrow i'm going to drive down to my local mechanic to have him go to town on it, crack it, and retorque to specs, and Ill drive back home.
You can only beat your head against the wall for so long...
I also borrowed my friend's snap on major profressional impact wrench, and still no go. I am going to buy a new crank bolt, and pulley as well.
This truck has just been really a PIA since I bought it, its too bad. Thank you for all your help.........
#49
No judgment, Baja, hope he doesn't snap it off and then charge ya an arm and a leg. Just a thought... curious as to why you're not interested in trying to shave off that flange, especially if you're going to replace the bolt(HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, ANYHOW, lol)? I guess if an extra cost isn't a factor, then it doesn't make much difference. Guess I was just curious, s'all. One more thing... might want to ask the mechanic if he would chase the threads out for you while he has the bolt out? Kinda curious why you're replacing the pulley, also...?? Is it hamburger? lol.
Best wishes, regarding a quick fix!
Mark
Best wishes, regarding a quick fix!
Mark
#50
I call for a



haha

We've all been there at some time where we have to give up and hand it over to someone else. If not, then those one's just haven't been doing this stuff that long and will eventually. I actually hope the mech breaks some tools so ya don't feel so bad. But DO hope he's able to get it off for ya.



haha

We've all been there at some time where we have to give up and hand it over to someone else. If not, then those one's just haven't been doing this stuff that long and will eventually. I actually hope the mech breaks some tools so ya don't feel so bad. But DO hope he's able to get it off for ya.
#51
chef if that mechanic does not chase the treads on the crankshaft he is just a worthless turd.. and is just after money..
that bolt olny needs to be torqued to 116 foot pounds i guess that what happends when gorllia hands gets ahold of a set of tools
no desrepect but i call everyone gorllia hand when people over tighten bolts.. lol
that bolt olny needs to be torqued to 116 foot pounds i guess that what happends when gorllia hands gets ahold of a set of tools
no desrepect but i call everyone gorllia hand when people over tighten bolts.. lol
#52
I'm late to the party... Too many things just sound wrong about this. you haven' bent or broken the breaker bar? 200psi from a home compressor! 500ftlbs from a impact wrench (must be at least 3/4" correct? Don't believe the crap they put on the box)
Here's a trick I've used when I didn't have access to the right tools, make a saddle for your floor jack to hold the breaker or cheater bar, put it under the wrench and jack it up. If you have to, chain the jack to the frame of the truck. You can use a bottle jack too but it's harder to balance. The saddle can be as simple as a piece of wood with a notch chiseled out or a piece of pipe welded to the jack. I've used both.
Another thot that someone else hit on, or got close to. Some thread locks take heat to release. We use some that require the steel be heated to 600* before they will let go. Ya never know what the PO put on there.
I look fwd to reading what it took to break this bad boy loose!
Here's a trick I've used when I didn't have access to the right tools, make a saddle for your floor jack to hold the breaker or cheater bar, put it under the wrench and jack it up. If you have to, chain the jack to the frame of the truck. You can use a bottle jack too but it's harder to balance. The saddle can be as simple as a piece of wood with a notch chiseled out or a piece of pipe welded to the jack. I've used both.
Another thot that someone else hit on, or got close to. Some thread locks take heat to release. We use some that require the steel be heated to 600* before they will let go. Ya never know what the PO put on there.
I look fwd to reading what it took to break this bad boy loose!
#53
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Oooo.. I like that idea of using the floor jack. Darn why didn't I think of that!?
I double checked the air line pressure with my compression gauge and it read 200 psi! I used a snap on impact wrench and it didn't budge. I was shocked...
I double checked the air line pressure with my compression gauge and it read 200 psi! I used a snap on impact wrench and it didn't budge. I was shocked...
#57
I had this same problem a few years back when I was doing my timing chain. The bolt on mine would not budge with 3/4 impact, heat, long breaker bars...nothing would touch it. I finally got out my grinder and removed the sheild for better access. I also removed the 4 bolts for the power steering pully and removed it as well. I VERY carefully cut just one flange off of the washer part. Then put just a regular 1/2 breaker bar on and it came of with litttle effort. I only had to get a new bolt at the dealer for around $10.
I think your at this point. Just be careful not to nick the pully and you will be fine.
I think your at this point. Just be careful not to nick the pully and you will be fine.
#58
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Snobdds, thanks for your input, along with Chef and Walker, I think I will need to do this.
No I haven't dropped it off yet. Basically though, I should have just tried breaking the crank bolt FIRST thing. You just need to pull the radiator out, and you've got full access (my electric fan is attached to the radiator). I'm waiting on a crank bolt first, and then once I get that, I'll try it again.
No I haven't dropped it off yet. Basically though, I should have just tried breaking the crank bolt FIRST thing. You just need to pull the radiator out, and you've got full access (my electric fan is attached to the radiator). I'm waiting on a crank bolt first, and then once I get that, I'll try it again.
#59
Cool, I'm looking forward to the "ground off the bottom of the flange and VOILA!" POST! LOL.... I know, nothing is ever guaranteed, true enough.... but that flange is putting probably half of the resistance against you and causing your head veins to bulge!...GET THAT SUCKA! HAHA. X2 on the "JUST BE CAREFUL!" post..... it's not that risky, but you have to take your time, ya know? No hurry!
Hopefully you can laugh about this when it's all done!
PS> Were you slammed like we were here in L.A. by the storm? Was pretty awesome.
Hopefully you can laugh about this when it's all done!
PS> Were you slammed like we were here in L.A. by the storm? Was pretty awesome.
#60
Thread Starter
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 6
From: 5th Gen San Diegan, California
Ha! Yeah I have to take a steady hand to that flange for sure. I am going to buy a new PS pulley anyways because mine is screwed from the PO. Its got a big gouge in it.
Yes we got slammed by the storm! It was weird cause it missed NorCal, and came in and nailed us? Free water! woohoo!
Yes we got slammed by the storm! It was weird cause it missed NorCal, and came in and nailed us? Free water! woohoo!



