zlathim

Those two hoses (the third pic for sure, but I'm almost positive on the first pic too) carry coolant from the engine to the throttle boddy. They should have coolant in them.

You really need to do a compression test on that thing. It will tell you if you are loosing compression or not. If you find a cylinder that is way lower than the rest, you probably have a bad HG (based on your circumstances) but a leakdown test will tell you for sure. If you are not sure how to do the tests, post up and we can help you through it. You will need a compression tester and a cylinder leakdown tester. If you do not have access to the leakdown tester, you can rig one up by butchering an old compression tester.

forbiddenera

mine still aren't in
haha

addicted56

Bellhousing bolts really??? I thought they were really easy. That is if you have 4 feet worth of extension's and a wobbly . It only took me about 5 mintues to get those two in.

Well that is good to know they are suppossed to carry coolant. I wonder why all they are carrying is steam then ???

One thing I checked was I took off the radiator cap like you had mentioned and looked for air comming out as you had mentioned. The fluid level stayed full and started swirling when the WP kicked on but I never did feel any air gurgling out of it. I am going to buy a compression tester Monday and see if I can find a leak down tester or borrow one from autozone like you had mentioned.

forbiddenera

Couldn't budge the damn thing enough to get the bolts part-way in enough to do anything else, I had a 4-footer and air tools but no wobblies or u-joints.. its done fine without them so far, maybe I'll get ambitious one day and slap them in

addicted56

I'm back for a bit. I had a conference to go to all week hence I couldn't work on the rig.

My toyota stopped smoking completely. A Tad puff on start up but that was it. I can't explain it. I put some hoses back on that were creating steam (not sure if they are suppossed to and still no steam out of the exhuast. It just completely quit. There is still large amounts of steam comming out of those hoses though.

But now it won't correct itself on the idle and lopes really bad and I have poor oil pressure (I did make modifications to the oil pickup so I'm slightly worried as it started to sound different though so I turned it off. I could have been paranoid though.

I was also haveing a problem with the clutch not holding power and the whole truck lurching on deceleration but that has stopped too. I made about 4 passes around the parking lot and she was plenty hot and no smoking out the tail pipe.

I engaged the 4HI and LO and they both worked and unlocked well.

I did start the heat though and I noticed there was nothing comming out at least for a couple miles. Then it all of the sudden and came on. When it came the engine temp instantly went up. I had already filled up the radiator with the gallon of water I had so I didn't have any more to put in there. I think though that there was an air bubble in there and it let go and then there wasn't enough water in the radiator. I will have to find out more next week.

So now I'm down to an oil pressure problem (picks up to normal when I get above 2K rmps and I have a horrible idle (might be related to some vacummee hoses being in the wrong position). But I have zero oil pressure at idle.

I'm thinking maybe something that acts like a vacume advance or fuel regulator is giving me the loping problem at idle.

We will see next week I guess.

Power seems fine though as she gets up and goes ok.

zlathim

It sounds like you definately had an air bubble in the cooling system. It is very common with Toyotas. Yours has burped from the sound of it, thats what happened when the heater started blowing hot as the coolant finally reached the heater core. You will need to add more coolant now, but it should be good to go. In the future, if you evr completely drain the system again, jack up the front of the truck a foot or so , then remove the rad cap and run it up to operating temp. That usually does the trick to remove the trapped air.

The idle situation might only be related to the lack of coolant. If the coolant temp sender is not sending a valid signal, the ecu gets confused and will make it run weird. On my old pickup with a 22re, I had a slow coolant leak that I never did get around to fixing. If I forget to check it and the level dropped far enough, it would idle really weird. I would not suspect vac advance for that problem, but I'm not sure about the fuel pressure regulator.

addicted56

I would hope it is something that easy about it idleing weird but I suspect that isn't it as it has done it the whole time. But like I said last week once it warmed up it did just fine so I will have to keep trying things I guess.

The only SERIOUS thing I'm worried about now is the oil pressure.

zlathim

At first, there was an airlock, probably in the area of the coolant bypass manifold at the rear of the intake. That's where to cts is located. Now, hopefully it is just low enogh that the sensor still isn't getting a valid temp reading. That's my optomistic view of what's going on anyway. I hope it really is as simple as that, because you have been working your a$$ off trying to get this thing drivable.

The oil pressure is certainly a concern. You need to check it with a manual gauge. I know that Harbor Freight sells a oil pressure test kit for $10, or you can borrow one from Autozone or equivelant. You may need to adapt the tester to fit the metric oil pressure tap on the block, but I have no idea what size and thread pitch the hole is threaded with. I would just use the hole in the block where the current pressure sender is located near the oil filter.

How did you modify the oil pickup?

mt_goat

Are you just going by the factory oil pressure gauge? Those are notorious for reading low. I think maybe its the senders that get old and don't respond to the pressure like they used to. I had the same thing with my old 3.0 and after swapping in a 3.4 with only 27,000 miles on in (using the same sender) the oil pressure was still just the same, low.

Also keep in mind, oil pressure is a lot like blood pressure. High can be worse than low because it could mean there is a blockage somewhere or the oil is too thick to flow good. What you want its good oil flow.

zlathim

The engine I was working on that I didn't immediately replace the top bellhousing bolts in ended up needing head gaskets. (got a used engine that had a blown HG) After I had the heads and exhaust crossover off, it was a simple matter of reaching down and putting them in with my fingers. A wrench tightened them right up. It was the one bright spot in the whole miserable project and my laziness finally paid off!!!

addicted56

Thank you for the post about the oil pressure sender. Hopefully that is the case. it was in the middle and low end of the stick even though I put 5 full quarts in the thing. So maybe it was just low or it is possible since the idle was so low 3-500 RPMs that at idle it wasn't enough to keep the pressure up as I know once it got to 2K RPMs the pressure was right in the middle.

I got to thinking about the coolant Temp sensor and you may be right. At very first it never idled. I ran the thing and added water. Then I let it warm up and it finally fixed itself and ran well. Then again I started it up this time and it ran crappy but if finally burbed. We will see. I try to be optomistic as much as possible but sometime

As far as modifying the oil pick up I had to change oil pans and hence the pick up on the engines as the other came from a 2WD truck. in order to get the oil pickup tube to fit I had to cut off the mounting brackets on the bottom so it would fit. I don't think there is any leaks around the actual spot I bolted it on but that is always a possibility as well I guess. We will see. It just needs a bit more tweaking.

I'm thinking that it may be time for some new plugs and wires as well as who knows when those were changed and this thing has seen a lot of previous mudding and abuse the last few days with me tinkiering with it. I think I might head into town tomorrow to go screw around with it.

mt_goat

That wouldn't be good. The pressure right in the middle at 2K RPMs sounds pretty good to me, especially if the oil is hot and thinned out.

zlathim

So, is the fuel issue taken care of? Forgive me if you already mentioned it, I can't remember.

addicted56

Yes,

I think I mentioned it in the other thread. Maybe not though.

It turned out to be the stereo system the guy had installed. I had him bring me the 6 disc CD changer and when I plugged it in no problem..when I unplugged it no dice. So apperently the way they tapped into that thing if the CD player is not plugged in you go NOWHERE. Hopefully nobody ever steals the thing. I had 2 stolen from me while in college. The second time I wasn't out of my car more than 3 minutes. I could still smell the marijuana in the cab comming off the guy. LAMO.

So I have an extra good fuel pump if anyone needs one.

I've been painting on my 56 Ford today trying to get it finished up so I can turn my attention to rebuilding the engine for it. I have to work on our Derby Demo car at lunch so that only leaves me about an hour after work each day to work on the 4-runner. My goal is to have it registered and in my driveway at home by Friday though.

addicted56

FINALLY FINISHED

Well it is finally done. I spent another 30 minutes on it before work and then another 30 after work.

The source of all the problems of the poor idle turned out to be one vacume line. It was one of those in the group of 3 that comes out of the that little black plastic piece on the passenger side. The one that goes down to the red connector on the passenger fender (not the one with the plastic filter looking thing, or the one that T's and goes to the firewall). Anyway after taking every single thing off including the fuel return that was the one that fixed it. It had to be the very last one of course.

So after all that trial and error I have a extra fuel pump and a circuit opening relay if anyone needs one. Will probably hold onto the relay though.

So the Coolant temp is perfect, the oil pressure is just fine, it idles right around 800 RPM, and the surging problem on deceleration is all gone. It sounds great with the aftermarket intake and the exhaust half rotten. Power is better than I remember as well. But then again It might be the bad name it gets on here. But I was very happy.

I should have it registered tomorrow and will drive it home if I can. That way I can finish the small things clean it out and button it up. Next battle is the rear window motor but I think it is fine. I just found out that it was undone when they replaced a broken rear window and never put back together. Hopefully it works.

zlathim

Saaweeeeet!! I'm glad to hear that you got it all ironed out!

I'll bet that you slept real well last night knowing that all is right with the inner workings of the 4runner.

Kudos to you on a job well done.

zlathim

You are a glutton for punishment arn't ya? LOL, just kidding. Good luck on all of your projects!

addicted56

Yes I am glutting for punishment. I have an addiction hence the name. I really do need to start a 12 step program. Maybe whittle it down to just a couple.

I did sleep well. It would good to know that it is running great and will be done in no time at all. As noted in another thread I found an ARB Airlocker for it and I'm going to try and install that in awhile if I manage to get it. Then the lift and tires, and the list goes on and on and on. Might have to get rid of the other projects though to fund it.

Thank you again for all of your help on here. I probably could have finished the thing 3 weeks ago if I had just drug it home in the first place and once it really came down to it and I got the fuel problem figured out it really only took about 2 hours to clean up all the small mistakes.

Again thank you and I will be seeing more of you all on here soon.

zlathim

No problem! I'm glad it all came together for you. I'll look forward to reading about your future mods.