olharleyman

OK so I just got the SAS runner and it has a rod knock and blown head gasket so I have decided to go with engine builders 30 over master kit and the Street RV Head FULLY ASSEMBLED with o/s valves, performance chilled iron guides, RV spring kit and the 268 cam( they will install for no extra charge) since the work is going to be about the same as a rebuilt motor this way I get some where in the 140-143 hp rating for a few hundred bucks less for parts not counting the machine work it should come out about the same as the rebuilt motor.

Since I am going to do all the motor work and replace every thing I am thinking that while I am there why not replace the clutch. This is the first 22re I have ever owned and I am wondering if anybody has any suggestion's for a clutch that will hold up to the 35 x 12.5's with 5.29's and may even go to 36 x 12.5's or even a better motor set up I would appreciate any advise before I spend a ass load of money only to be disappointed.

The truck will be a daily driver for awhile while I do the super charged 3.4 swap in the 90 but it will be a play toy and second driver after that. Any thoughts , advice or pointers anybody?

bigt

cant go wrong with that marlin heavy duty clutch!!
great for ultra low gearing and a nice 22re like the one your gonna have!!!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I just put the OEM clutch I sell in the 87 that just got rebuilt...my 85 had a stock clutch on 40s.

olharleyman

What would the cost of your stock set and slave with shipping be?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

1992-1995 4cyl standard clutch kit - $149 + $20 S/H

Clutch Master Cylinder, 88-95 V6 & 89-95, 4cyl - $59 + $10 S/H

Clutch Slave Cylinder, 79-95, 4cyl - $29 + $10 S/H

http://www.wabfab.org/products/clutches/clutches.htm

olharleyman

Any shipping breaks as a set?

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I'd got with OEM Secco with a heavier pressure plate, I run 1200lbs stock is 900lbs.

Why the 268 cam? Talk to Ted or Tod explain what you want to do. I've run the EB 261 and now have a Delta 260@ highway speeds my RPM's are still in the power curve with both cams and I still have/had grunt power off idle. If memory serves me the 268 will not kick in till higher in the RPM's and you lose off idle.

Just do your research.

bigarms23

havent had any problems with my ,arlin hd clutch

olharleyman

I have spoke with tod on the phone and he stated to me that the 268 with the over size valves would be the better option since the truck will be on the road as much as off road.

He also told me that the 261c would be better if it was off road more then on road and that really the only real difference between the 2 is that the 261 has better low end RPM and not quite as much top end.

This is why I am asking for advice and experience with a possible better option in the cam area if anyone knows of one and i know really nothing about the 22 re so as far as I am concerned asking these questions is researching not to sound like a dick or anything just trying to find a way to learn about the option's out there and not seem like a dumb ass if you know what I mean.

Blackulua

I have the Trail Gear 1600 lb pressure plate with the 6 puck disc.The pedal pressure is light but the disc really hooks-up excellent on the take off and I would buy another one if I have to.It is a great clutch .Ive tried centerforce ,TRD,Clutchmaster,and cheaper Autozone setups.The key to have the perfect set-up is to also have the flywheel resurfaced or bought ready to bolt-on at Checkers for $45 exchanged.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

No worries about sounding like a dick and for my part I wasn't trying to sound like one either. I currently am running a Delta 260 cam similar to the EB 261 cam (which I ran in my last engine) I also have OS valves with a mild port and polish, lower end is balance static and dynamic. All I can say is I like my engine very much, but it is still a 4cyl. I do not have expereince with the 268 cam. My rig is a DD/ very dented family ride (yep we get odd looks) the 260 and 261 were both very streetible and the power is right where I need them, idle to 40,000 which is nice. I cruise 65-70 rpms stay on the low side of 30,000. Offroad it is nice having the grunt to lower RPMs, with my new engine I've gotten bad about not shifting to a lower gear because of this grunt. As I've stated its still a 4cyl and I'm not winning any races with it, but honestly that is why I'm not into fast cars (heavy right foot and all) I purchased my engine from http://www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/ I would recommend calling them and talk to Mike. I'm not suggesting buy a motor from them but talk, I also talked to Tim of DOA in NC. I have talked to Ted and Tod of EB as well. I even call LCE. Shoot most of these guys love to talk engines. I'd talk to one do research and call/email them again and again. I went with the selection I did for a couple reasons: Ted no longer builds and Tod was not able to build in my time frame however they made recommendations but stated it had been quite a while since last dealings with their recommendations. Well google and forum searches on many forum turned up bad experiences, I was in no mood to deal with issues. I looked at having the engine work done and doing the assembly myself, well the work cost and total time line made it more effective to get an assembled unit. Stock spec engines are cheaper but honestly nothing on my truck is stock and I did want to be able to better do on ramps. If you look at sunwest call as the website is not a current spec of the engine I bought.

Good luck and feel free to ask me any questions about my expereinces, this as I said is the second engine I've put in my truck, I'm not an expert just enjoy my truck.

I did do a write up on my expereince with dealing with Sunwest. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-motor-149971/