I have a 93 4runner 22re, and when it is hot and cold it makes a clacking sound around 2700-3000 rpms, and it only does it when i am applying a constant light pressure on the gas pedal. Also when i am going up a hill and downshift from 3rd to 2nd it makes this sound really bad and it just sounds really gross. I always thought that this sound was my valve clearances and it is time for me to have a look at them, but i was looking around and this sound apparently has something to do with the timing chain. I have only owned this truck for 5 months, and the guy who owned it before me said he replaced the timing chain, but i dont know if he didnt or someone else did it because he was an idiot. I am kind of worried because this rpm is exactly what i drive at on the highway so the sound is really getting to me, and i cringe anytime i here something about the timing chain because if that goes i should might as well say goodbye to my beloved 22re. anyhelp clarifying this would help.

 

i had an 87 22RE that I changed a timing chain on a few years ago. I think what you might be hearing is the chain hitting the side of the T/C cover. There is a long plastic guide on each side of the chain, and I think its pretty common for the guides to break and basically fall down away from the chain. If that's the case, you can replace the guides without too much hassle. Depending on the amount of wear on the chain and the cover, you might want to replace those as well.

 

i was thinking that this sound was more of a mechanical sound because it only happens under certain conditions, but db what you say can be true. But really my question is will a failing or improper timing chain make a clacking sound.

 

the only way to really find out what it is would be to take off your valve cover and turn the engine over about an 1/8 of a turn clockwise (if your standing in front of it) and then check for slack on the passengers side of the chain, if its floppy then you need a chain kit, and also look at both of the chain guides to make sure they are still there

this is what the drivers side guide should look like, you cant really see the passengers side guide in this pic , but its at about the same height as the drivers side guide

 

is there anything special you have to do when you take the valve cover off, are there gaskets that have to be replaced or can they be reused? I also have another sound related problem. A few days ago i noticed that when my truck is warm and it is idling it is a lot louder and makes this loud rough sounding clicking/ticking noise from the front of the motor, not the same sound as what i was talking about above. I know the 22re ticks but over time you come to know what your motor sounds like and it didnt sound like this before. Over the past few days the sound has gotten worse, i thought it might be oil related but i still have fairly decent pressure, half way up on the gauge when im cruisin and about quarter way up when im idling, so i decided to change to a thicker oil since it is now warmer, but that has done nothing. I know it is hard to diagnose a noise over the internet but i need help because i do not want to drive if it if this noise means something is terribly wrong and the motor will blow up or something when i drive it next.

 

if its coming from the front of the engine then its your t-chain

 

thanks, guess ill have to take a look at it. Again can someone point me towards a write up or give me some tips on how and what to do when removing the valve covers, and tell me what im lookin for in the timing chain.

 

i was just thinking, what am i looking for in the timing chain that would make this sound when it is hot and not when it is cold.

 

could be that the oil is thinner when it heats up, and is gushing out of the tensioner before it's able to push on the chain.

 

writeup on www.4crawler.com for replacemtn of the timimg chain

 

i'm gonna take my valve cover off as soon as it stops raining out which by looks of it might take a while. Would you notice if you have a burned valve, or would it make a noise, or would your motor just not work at all. because if my valves are tight and havent been checked for a long while then a burned one is possible right?

 

Hello this is my idea of what may be happening it sounds like you are sure of what the timming chain sounds like and it sound like it is not that but may be piston slap cause. is the crank shaft bearing is wore out to the point that under certain throttle positions it can do what you are saying if so you should really have a
mechanic look at it before you do anymore damage sure sounds like that is the prob. check it out

 

No, there isn't anything special about pulling the valve cover, and as long as you don't do any damage, you can reuse the gasket and the 4 grommets. Assuming they're not too awful old and brittle, of course. The valve cover gasket sets, including the 2 half-moons, and 4 grommets are usually 7-10 dollars. Not a big investment, and may prevent a lot of little, annoying oil leaks later.

 

at that RPM level, i'd bet a dollar to a donut that it is the t-chain (driver's side guide is munched). that's the textbook symptom...rattling from front of engine at around 2800RPM.

one trick in removing the valve cover is that the grommets can sort of melt themselves onto the studs...then you have to unscrew them instead of just pulling them off. if yours are like that, you should replace them.

in fact, if you have never replaced the half-moon seals and grommets, i would agree with 2ToyGuy and suggest doing so anyway. they are not that expensive.

other than that, just keep track of the hoses and wires you disconnect and reconnect them the same way...not a big deal...for the most part, they will only all fit back together one way (due to lengths etc.)

also, when you put it back on, the four nuts that hold it on get very little torque...something like 52 *inch* lbs (so, a little more than 4 ft lbs)...not that much more than finger tight.

to answer your other question, yes, if your valves are too tight, you could burn one (most likely an exhaust valve)...however, burning valves on a 22RE is not the most common thing...much more common on the 3.0.

 

And if they're too tight, they don't tick-tick. Only when they're loose, do they do that.
The grommets are the right torque when the rubber bulges just out to be even with teh metal cap. Like he said, VERY low torque value.

Good luck, and keep us up to date!

 

More write ups on T chain replacement. This is not a recommendation for or against DOA Racing products, it just happens to be what the author is using in the article and the info is useful. Good luck.


http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/doatimingchain/

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Mike

 

yeah, engnbldr's guides are much cheaper.

 

i also recommend engnbldr's kit (www.engnbldr.com)...i got the one with the steel back driver's side guide...it was about $60...high quality stuff in spite of the cheap price. and great customer service.

i also used 4crawler's write up and the 4x4wire write up...they make the job actually really easy.