cheap and effective mods
#1
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Location: hendersonville, TN.
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cheap and effective mods
I want to know if there is anything i can do to my truck to make it better without spending alot of money, like taking an overload springs off the back and replacing it with a mid leaf from a two wheel drive spring pack, or cutting the cover off your MAF sensor and adjusting the fuel curve after installing an intake and exhaust (both are done to my truck already). this should be a good thread huh what do you think!
#4
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To bland of a question. what do you want to accomplish. Do you wheel at all? What are the specs on your rig?
I suggest you think about were you want to see the rig then search and find the questions you may have then.
You could do lifts, intake, exhaust, the list goes on so take it from there and good luck
I suggest you think about were you want to see the rig then search and find the questions you may have then.
You could do lifts, intake, exhaust, the list goes on so take it from there and good luck
#5
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Filsrunner is right, the aftermarket for vehicles is huge you can do anything you want to. Need to know what you want to do.
[Quote] Not to be an ass but this question comes up every 36hrs or so... [Quote]
You spelled that wrong... *minutes
(And I won't even deny it I do it too. )
[Quote] Not to be an ass but this question comes up every 36hrs or so... [Quote]
You spelled that wrong... *minutes
(And I won't even deny it I do it too. )
#6
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maybe i didnt get the point pushed i want to know how much stuff you can do to your truck for undes 20 dollors. Doas that make a differance!
#7
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hmm... you can break it for just the price of gas to get you to the trail!
you can vacuume it for like 4$
wash it
take off your running boards for free
trim out some fender so you can fit bigger tires
take off stupid like those hidden hitches
put some razor blades behind your stereo
crank the torsion bars
rotate your tires
do the diff breather mod
runnin low on ideas for less than 20$ but I find the cheapest mods are to just remove sheet metal to make room ... lose your bed and flat deck it with some tube. that wouldnt cost much
you can vacuume it for like 4$
wash it
take off your running boards for free
trim out some fender so you can fit bigger tires
take off stupid like those hidden hitches
put some razor blades behind your stereo
crank the torsion bars
rotate your tires
do the diff breather mod
runnin low on ideas for less than 20$ but I find the cheapest mods are to just remove sheet metal to make room ... lose your bed and flat deck it with some tube. that wouldnt cost much
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#9
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Anything under $20 beyong 2-3 mods aren't going to do much. Running boards, making the wheel wells bigger, and pushing it would be an adapter for a k&n off ebay for $7 and the k&n wouldn't be so affective. Those are the 3 that really come to my mind. Unless you have a welder and access to a junk yard... in which case the list gets a lot bigger
#11
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remove sway bay
air down tires
have a fat person with you for added traction( on top of the truck not under the tire....... well, if your really stuck...)
and this may be kinda dumb for the street and high speed stuff but you can take the shocks off the back and it will flex alot better, Only usefull when rock crawling i guess..
take the doors off
those are all free! (save for the fat person, who can eat $20 in food)
air down tires
have a fat person with you for added traction( on top of the truck not under the tire....... well, if your really stuck...)
and this may be kinda dumb for the street and high speed stuff but you can take the shocks off the back and it will flex alot better, Only usefull when rock crawling i guess..
take the doors off
those are all free! (save for the fat person, who can eat $20 in food)
#12
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from steveh at pirate4x4:
Horsepower – More Power
Thanks to DRM for saving this, and Tim for giving the advice.
Originally posted by DRM
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."
A follow-up from later that day:
"... you pull the EFI fuse to start the ECU's regathering of fuel mixture readings, because you are altering them via the AFM. The #65's are a hotter plug, and will in this case create a more efficient burn. You WILL NOT detonate when the timing is set 16* NOT SHORT CIRCUTED, because the end reading when short circuted will be 8* advanced. The afm adjustment enrichens the motor aproximately 3cc. This is necessary due to the timing advance, which requires a proper mixture."
I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Horsepower – More Power
Thanks to DRM for saving this, and Tim for giving the advice.
Originally posted by DRM
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."
A follow-up from later that day:
"... you pull the EFI fuse to start the ECU's regathering of fuel mixture readings, because you are altering them via the AFM. The #65's are a hotter plug, and will in this case create a more efficient burn. You WILL NOT detonate when the timing is set 16* NOT SHORT CIRCUTED, because the end reading when short circuted will be 8* advanced. The afm adjustment enrichens the motor aproximately 3cc. This is necessary due to the timing advance, which requires a proper mixture."
I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.
-----------------------------------------------------------
#14
Registered User
Tell ya what... Up it to about $35 and we've got something to work with.
Auxillary tractor lights from Tractor Supply - $15.00/each
Wiring - $.01
Toggle switch - $2.00
Having backup lights that are worth something - priceless
Auxillary tractor lights from Tractor Supply - $15.00/each
Wiring - $.01
Toggle switch - $2.00
Having backup lights that are worth something - priceless
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