Cant get new TPS into spec
#1
Cant get new TPS into spec
Ok I have an 86 Runner that I put a new TPS on and still have a code 11. I cant get this TPS to adjust <2.3K at .022 (terminals IDL/E2).
When I first fire it up I get a code 1 all is good. When I hit about 1K RPM I get a code 11 at the lowest setting I can get it to.
TPS is a Toyota 89452-20050 / ND 198500-0191
I have noticed some TPS units for same application but different part number, do I have the wrong TPS?
Cover the light and move to a free state type posts dont help so please dont post that garbage as I need to get it smogged in Ca.
Any Ideas?
When I first fire it up I get a code 1 all is good. When I hit about 1K RPM I get a code 11 at the lowest setting I can get it to.
TPS is a Toyota 89452-20050 / ND 198500-0191
I have noticed some TPS units for same application but different part number, do I have the wrong TPS?
Cover the light and move to a free state type posts dont help so please dont post that garbage as I need to get it smogged in Ca.
Any Ideas?
#2
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I had to replace my TPS on my 86 and Toyota used a revised part number from what the original used. I forget where I got my last one, but it was a Denso parts dealer on line.
Setting the gap to the correct setting sounds easy enough. Just a meter and feeler gauge but I have a hard time with it and I know how to use a meter and feeler gauge. Last one I just took the throttle body and new TPS to my local dealer and they set it spot on for 1/2 hour labor and if I recall it was $30 to have it done.
In my opinion, the tolerance is to tight that I was just unable to get it into the correct spot. One the dealer did it for me and with a new TPS it made a huge difference.
Setting the gap to the correct setting sounds easy enough. Just a meter and feeler gauge but I have a hard time with it and I know how to use a meter and feeler gauge. Last one I just took the throttle body and new TPS to my local dealer and they set it spot on for 1/2 hour labor and if I recall it was $30 to have it done.
In my opinion, the tolerance is to tight that I was just unable to get it into the correct spot. One the dealer did it for me and with a new TPS it made a huge difference.
Last edited by Terrys87; 07-19-2016 at 08:51 PM.
#3
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IDL is just a switch to E2 (ground). It's supposed to be closed (0 ohms) at idle, open (infinite ohms) at not idle.
But since it isn't a snap switch, Toyota tells us that getting the resistance to less than 2.3k is "as good as closed." As far as throttle position is concerned, Toyota tells us that .020" (or less) is "closed," and .031" (or more) is "open."
So with the TPS positioned conveniently, make sure you can get the IDL-E2 connection to "turn on and off" at some point. If it's always above 2.3k ohms no matter where you position it, you may have a bad TPS.
But since it isn't a snap switch, Toyota tells us that getting the resistance to less than 2.3k is "as good as closed." As far as throttle position is concerned, Toyota tells us that .020" (or less) is "closed," and .031" (or more) is "open."
So with the TPS positioned conveniently, make sure you can get the IDL-E2 connection to "turn on and off" at some point. If it's always above 2.3k ohms no matter where you position it, you may have a bad TPS.
#4
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It really helps to replaced the "screws" that hold the TPS in place, with allen head bolts.
That way you can use a "ball" end allen key to adjust the TPS.
And a second set of hands to hold the feeler gauge can be handy but not as necessary if you do the allen bolt mod.....
That way you can use a "ball" end allen key to adjust the TPS.
And a second set of hands to hold the feeler gauge can be handy but not as necessary if you do the allen bolt mod.....
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