mattches

Hey-

First post, been loving this site for a while now.

To bring up to "speed" (no pun intended).

95 runner, brand new reman 3.0. (I know, why the F did it do it....!) Installed finished last week. Road testing initially went fine, until trying to go up a hill 6-7% at highway speed. ECT PWR off.

On level ground it gets up and goes off the line with plenty (it is a 3.0) of power. Gets right up to 70+ mph. approaching the hill it slowly starts loosing speed, downshifts to 3rd, to 2nd and gradually tops out at about 30mph with almost 3500+rpm. Seems like it just looses all its guts. Then once on top of the hill, it takes FOREVER to get back up to speed. I got passed by a pinto!

Any thoughts on what to check? TPS, linkage, trans solenoids, tc stator, engine? Also, might not be related, but exhaust manifold (dr side) gets glowing red after hill climb. Probably just timing or ecu adjusting to new injectors. 12* BTDC 4500ft.

Love to hear your thoughts, has this happened to anyone else? How did you fix?

MudHippy

Glowing red hot exhaust manifold probably just timing or ECU "adjusting" to new injectors?

NO WAY! I run mine a 20* BTDC and the exhaust manifold has never glowed red hot, not even close to it that I would imagine.

You've got a clogged catalytic convertor is more like it. Letting it heat up into the red hot range is likely to crack that manifold, burn a valve, or blow your headgasket pretty quick like. High exhaust temps and/or high backpressure will cause the engine to lose power big time.

4banginRunner

x2 on the clogged cat

mattches

You run at 20BTDC?! I touched getting it that far adv, but idle speed sent way up, manual only states 10 btdc.

yes, I am aware of the potential damage. I will have to check the cat. But, a red exhaust (I have been told) is the result of a lean running motor, hence the timing issue. The injectors on this motor I believe are for a 3.4. I have had to reset the ecu several times once installed to get it right, now it runs nice and smooth, although I would bet the computer needs reset again because of the high rpms finally ran through it.

You are really running at 20 btdc. how long have you been doing that for? any ill effects? Is that with te1 and e1 jumped?

MudHippy

Yes, 20* BTDC. A few months. No ill effects. Yes, with the diag. terminals jumped. I've heard people state that they run their's is even more, 25* BTDC more or less(or as far as you can turn the dist. clockwise). I had to turn my idle way down too.

Here's a good thread to read.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ce-read-78134/

mattches

Interesting read. I will check it out, but still am not convinced that timing (12*) would be the only culprit in this thing not wanting to go up a rather short but fairly steep climb at only 30mph.

However, I am curious how you ended up adjusting your idle speed. I can back off the adjustments on all associated parts of the tb (dp, kickdown, idle, etc..) and the tps still overrides it. At close to 20 btdc (when I was initially timing) idle was at almost 1500k.

seafarinman

Wow, a newly remanufactured 3.0 that slow? I guess that I feel good that my old 218,000 mile 3.0 still runs that well. My truck takes forever to accelerate to freeway speeds and has no power really below 3000 rpm. I am turning 37's though, and have at least one burnt valve. I am not going to spend any more $$$$ on this engine though. I have a 2RZ sitting in the garage on an engine stand waiting to to go in.

BrunswickYota

I turned up mi I speed and timing at stock after same prob almost...only no acceleration on my part...my timing was way way off

mattches

B- I read your thread on that already. Sounds very similar. However your thread does not have closure. Did the timing fix it? What were you set at before changing it. What is your timing set at now?

MudHippy

No no no....the TPS doesn't do anything to the idle. The dashpot wouldn't effect the idle either if it's set right. And, a kickdown? What's that? I don't think there's such a part on your engine. I've never heard of it anyway. I kinda know my stuff too(if you haven't noticed).

I just used the idle adjustment screw and it was plenty effective. I could lower the idle down to whatever, say 200-300 rpm, if I want.

There's only 1 way to adjust the idle on your engine. You need to see the FSM, I believe you have some homework to catch up on...

Here, http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

mattches

I would love to compare your notes. I you look on the throttle body there is an adjustment on the dp & the kickdown (on the cable return of the throttle linkage for tranny) both of which are adjusted with a tiny allen key to turn hold the stud while adjusting the lock-nut. Both of these items are on the front side of the throttle body. The idle adjustment screw is on the rear of the throttle body, just above the tps.

I would love to simply adjust the idle with the stop screw, but the tps holds it out.

I have reviewed the service manual many times and it specifically notes in there about adjustment for each of these items. Thanks for the link! And yes you are totally correct that the dp should not need adjustment and should not affect idle if it were properly adjusted. But that was the first spot that it hung on. With everything backed off, it idles right at 700, by the tps. Good throttle response no hesitation, etc...

I am thinking that the tps is in need of adjustment as well.

thook

If your exhaust is glowing from running lean, you'd have to be running so lean that you'd barely have any power and would be running badly. Plus, you're plugs would be toast and internal damage already done. In which case, burned valves, cylinders, and/or rings would cause poor compression and would definitely cause power loss, but at the same time the motor would never run smooth. Have a look at your plugs, eh? Plus, your O2 sensor would/should be throwing a code.

I third the cat notion. It makes more sense. By the time you're up the hill, the exhaust really needs high flow to expell the volume and temp of gases at that point. However, with a clogged cat, the gases are backing up into the combustion chamber and killing the octane and horsepower/torque. Power loss.

mattches

EGR?!!

I had to replace the crush washers on the fuel rail before finally getting it out. I had lifted the intake plenum to get to them, in putting everything back I forgot to hook up the line from the modulator to the valve.

The EGR lowers high rpm combustion temp, a totally closed one at 3-4K makes for direct cold air in. Not to mention the massive vacuum leak. Each contributing to cause the top end performance to suffer.

One of those "Well that's your problem right there!" type moments yesterday.
Grumble.......

I did advance timing. It does result in a bit more power, but the idle goes right up with it. I really am not a big fan of idleing high and having to shock the driveline when putting it in gear. I think that I am going to play it safe and keep it between 10-15*. It starts well, and runs well in that range (also what the FSM says to set it at). Makes a bit more sense to not burn valves or risk motor & driveline stress due to pre-ignition because of the over-advance of timing.

Just need to replace the upper windshield washer pump and it should be a good runner.

Thanks

Matt

MudHippy

Well, alot of us here have done the EGR delete. Just not in that fashion. Plugging that hose up, and assuming the EGR valve stays closed, get's the job done sometimes. Your engine doesn't need it to run right. Most folks that remove/block their's are pleased with the results, me included.

Lot's of good info here on how to do it the right way if your interested.

About the timing thing, it's not the same for every case or every 3VZE. Those numbers, 10-15*, would probably be what is reasonable for a stock engine, 10* being the stock setting. Which in my personal opinion is much too conservative. Though, I have modified my engine's exhaust and use solid core ignition wires to help me achieve 20* with no issues. It's an otherwise stock engine, with NO other aftermarket components or tweaking with any of the EFI settings. She makes good power now, I wouldn't change a thing I've done to it.

wreckedrex

I think I had the same problem. The truck ran alright, but would fall on its face when climbing any sort of grade. We're talking 2nd gear, 25mph, WOT and still decelerating. It wasn't all the time though. I replaced the TPS and the problem cleared up. It wasn't a rocket ship by any stretch of the imagination but it was way better.

At some later point I had the intake manifold off and cleaned it up before re-installation. I Knocked the sludge off the EGR pipe and cleaned out the runners as well as I could. That made some difference too, not as profound as the sensor but noticeable. Also, it's a PITA. I wouldn't mess with it unless you have the manifold off for some other reason.

Last week I bumped the timing up to 12* for a little more improvement. That made about the same difference as cleaning the intake manifold out.