what up, need some help im installing a pro comp stage 2 4" suspention lift on a 90 toyota 4runner, the back end went smooth, now the font, whats holding us up is the lower a arms cant get the bolts out there seized in there bad tryied weezle piss impact and slaming with hammers won't buged i was gonna try hitting the bolts with some heat to see if that will loosen them up but im thinking its gonna heat the bushing 's along with it so if ya got any ideas right up, see im trying to save the bushing 's so don't gotta spend $400 to replace.

 

Good Luck. I ended up grinding the bolts down, and completely replaced the lower control arms. The used arms I got still had good bushings in them.

 

I ended up taking a 4" grinder and used a cutting disk to cut the bolt that was stuck. I could cut so far then I'd have to rotate it, then repeat. If I recall I worked on it for about 3 hours then had to go get 4.5" wheels to get the rest of it but it finally gave. I had to buy a new bolt and bushing for the LCA. Bushing was like $40 from the dealer.

Good luck. I know how frustrating that can be...

 

I ended up sawsalling my rusted stuck LCA bolt. When you put the new one in cover it completely with anti-seize.

 

x2 Anti-seize is your friend.

 

i use a torch but thats cuzzz i got replacment bushing on myn

 

sawzall..

BTDT.... more than once

 

If they aren't coming out, you have no choice but to destroy the bushings. Order up a new pair, or just head down to the junk yard and get 2 new arms. Cut the old ones out.

 

When i put my lift on i plan on replacing all the bushings for the control arms anyways with polyurethane bushings. I think it is a wise $50 investment since the front end is taken apart anyways and then you shouldn't have to take it apart to replace the bushings later.

 

Isn't that $50 each as in $200 for the LCA alone?

A stock bushing is $39 each.

 

nope:

http://downeyoff-road.com/Suspension...s/1986-95.html

about 3/4 the ways down

 

Those are cheap. Almost worth it though to just buy new ones though so you don't have to cook the rubber out of the old shells...

 

"NOTE – These bushings require re-use of the original equipment metal shells and parts shown in photo."

The OEM parts in the picture get destroyed with the bushings. The whole reason why you need to cut them out is because the bolt on the right is seized into the sleeve in the middle. You'll still need new OEM bushings.

 

Off the cuff - the inner metal busing has an OD that is like super close to 1" diameter rod stock... pretty easy to make new ones...

 

ya had no choice to cut the old a arms out was gonna try and replace the bushings thow but ya can only buy bushings for the fronts of the a arms the rear one's can't replace so i ended up just buying new a arm and bolts costed little over $700 if i would of new about the polyurathane i would of whent that way.

 

The bushing I replaced was the rear bushing... I got it from my dealer. If I'm not mistaken the front and rear bushing is the same.

Oh well, doesn't help you much now.

Glad you got it though.