Odin

1991 2WD BASE Truck 22R-E 5spd

As far as I know my truck is all stock.
I looked up my VIN and found that the Factory Replacement clutch slave cylinder is Aisin CRT001 Part# 31470-30260
When I looked up what I need on ebay I find the stock one mentioned above and an Aisin CRT017 Part# 31470-35041


When I did a Part# search on Rockauto using the stock 31470-30260 item one of the interchange slaves that popped was the DORMAN Part# CS37525.
Next to that part number it shows the numbers it interchanges with {#3147020130, 3147020131, 3147022150, 3147030260, 3147035040, 3147035041, 3147035050, 3147035070, 3147035071, 3147035100, CSA37525}
As you can see it lists both of those numbers I provided.

So what's the deal here?
The CRT017 is more expensive.
Is the CRT017 heavy duty or something? Does it have a better warranty?
Are the CRT017 and CRT001 directly interchangeable using the same master?

Marlin Crawler and Yotamasters don't list Aisin part numbers on their sites but going strictly by price I think they're listing the CRT017 for my application.




The back story;
I purchased my truck used and I finally changed my clutch fluid.
It was very black and I could see nasty black bits in the bottle it was draining into. More than normal I'd say. Looking everything over it looks like someone changed the clutch master cylinder but not the slave cylinder. It seems to function a little better than it did but I'm not thrilled with the feel or action. I gave the clutch bracket a quick look over and didn't see any cracks. I should've checked the freeplay while I was under there

Since the master looks like it's been replaced I was thinking about replacing the slave cylinder and line. I don't like the thought of that much rubber break down. The line rotting away could be why I'm not liking the feeling and I'm thinking about getting the braided line to replace it.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

yes, i believe you can swap different slave cylinders. i'm currently looking for clutch master and slave cylinders for my corolla and have noticed the same thing with different part numbers that will fit the vehicle. I think what it truly comes down to is bolt pattern and location of inlet/outlet, and many are interchangeable. Don't quote me on that

Odin

Thanks for the input.

No harm no foul. I research things pretty thoroughly before I purchase because there is nobody to blame but me if I deviate from stock.

bswarm

You need to see if the bore diameter is the same, it's usually cast into the outside of the slave. If it's different it will either extend out more or less than the original.

Odin

Gotcha, that's definitely something to think about.
I wonder if there's a site that lists the bore diameters?
I tried an Aisin site for specifics but couldn't find anything. I also tried google searches with CRT017 bore size, 31470-35041 bore size, 3147035041 bore size and struck out. Guess I'm gunna have to crawl under there and take a look.

Do you know if all the Aisin slave cylinders have Aisin cast into them? Just wondering if mine is an Aisin part or not.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Excuse me can you explain how the bore diameter determines the length of travel in the cylinder?? Length of the piston travel and length of the push rod determine the length of the stroke.

This is where so many people run into issues with the hydraulic clutches sure most all the slave cylinders will bolt up to the bell housing .

Not real sure how these interchanges are figured out.

some extend to far putting to much pressure on the clutch fork which ends up breaking the fork or the clip

Others the push rod is to short not allowing the clutch to disengage completely.

This is from things I have seen up close and in person.

Then Toyota is great at changing part numbers from one year to the next and from one vehicle to the next for the same part.

Makes it more fun when you have a other then original transmission and don`t know.

Price is most often figured on cost to purchase and supply and demand.

Just go to Rock Auto buy the Aisin CRT 001 for $13.85 and be done.

Odin

This makes sense to me. Perhaps the bore size is has more to do with the Clutch Master and the fluid it moves?
This is the first manual trans I've had to work on so I'm just trying to get my facts straight.

I still have to dive under there and see about the freeplay adjustment.
I'm looking for a little quicker clutch disengagement and weighing my options.

bswarm

It's usually a 1:1 ratio, the master and slave are the same bore, but not always. If you put a smaller bore slave the original master will push it more farther, possibly too far blowing it out the end or breaking things. If you put a larger bore slave the original master will push it less farther, possibly not releasing the clutch enough. It's similar for brakes, but instead of travel distance it's pedal effort/pressure that's affected.

Odin

So I now have some conflicting information.
I sent one of the ebay sellers this question

Me
"The master cylinder part number is a match for my truck but the Slave Cylinder doesn't match my numbers. Stock on my truck should be CRT001 (31470-30260).

The part number you have listed is 31470-35041 (CRT017).
Is there anything different about that Slave Cylinder?"





Reply
"Thanks for the message. It looks like CRT001 is no longer a valid number.

But 31470-30260 supersedes to CRT017 in my catalog."
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Also, I found numbers on the sides of them by looking here http://www.aisinaftermarket.com/English/Catalog.php

CTR001 shows the numbers 67 on the side.
CRT017 has the number 80 on it.

So if they have the throw or bore size on the outside- 67 & 80, that certainly seems to be conflicting information.


.

Odin

.....

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Was still a good number on Rock Auto the other day.

I have had good luck with them.

Odin

Haha yea I know, just more curious why some people have it listed for that truck than anything now.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I do think it is a Aisin one size fits all slave cylinder.

While Toyota used 500 different part numbers for the same part

I know I have a new one here in the box

Odin

Today I checked the clutch pedal height and it was slightly low so I adjusted it up a bit. I already had the factory matting out so I was able to get a pretty accurate measurement.

Time to check the clutch bracket for movement/cracking;
I pushed on the clutch pedal paying close attention to the clutch bracket for signs of movement but it didn't budge. I then pushed it from side to side and found plenty of movement, but it wasn't from the bracket. If you've had these pieces apart you know where this is heading.

Checking clutch pedal freeplay;
I hate how far I have to push the clutch to get it disengaged so I wanted to adjust the freeplay to it's minimum.
When measured it was alot larger than the factory specified 3/16 min.
Since I was right there I removed the pin that holds the master to the clutch lever. It was the source of all the side to side play.
I found a minimum of 1/16 inch (likely more) of the pin was ground off through repeated use with no grease applied.
That's probably why I haven't liked the feel of it from the start. I cleaned it all up, greased it up and adjusted it to the minimum.

On the test drive it felt like it disengaged a little sooner so I'm a little happier with it but that pin and it's bushing need to be replaced for sure.
I also took a closer look at the master cylinder and it says Aisin on the very side but since it's mostly facing down it's very hard to see.
In that case it might just be original and I don't think I'll replace the Slave without replacing the Master.
Perhaps just replacing the clutch pivot pin, bushing, and the hose will suffice.