damm..makes me wanna put mine in

 

Oh yeah, I remember doing them in a friends ranger with a limited slip. Arse end really whips out

dooooo it!!

 

Bump my old thread, locker showed up today
Going to drop it off at my gear guys house in a few days, can't wait!!

 

I've finally had a chance to drive mine around in the snow now. And its not as bad as I thought it would be, though 2wd is worthless if there are any slick spots.

 

I got to try out my M/T's in the snow, now that is scary! 4wd defently needed in light snow.

 

Offroad the traction is unbelievable. I need to post some pics of where I went this last weekend - thanks to my front and rear Lockrights. One guy had to use momentum and beat his truck to hell to get to the same spots - I just crawled and took it easy. Best investment by far thus far.

 

Im hoping I can had it set, then get the third (and front diff) installed before christmas. But im not holding my breath. I dont have the funds right now.

 

Question here - what gear thickness are you guys running with your lockrights? I just placed a big order of amsoil syth fluids (all drivetrain) and was going to run 75w-90 in both diffs. Now the lockright instructions call for a thicker oil like 90w-140, suggestions?

 

I've been running 75w-90 without problems. I use Mobil1 synth. Perhaps in the summer it makes a difference?

 

I have been running 85W-140 since it "quiets" the Lockrights clicking and softens the banging that happens sometimes. BTW I am running the #1620(V6) ones as well.

 

Hmm, perhaps I will save the amsoil fluid for the front diff (next change) and buy a heavier gear oil for the rear.

85w-140 I suppose. Do they make a synth that weight?

 

Anybody have a lockrite with an auto tranny? I see you saying "push in the clutch around corners", but if you don't have the option, what do you do?

 

Yes they do make a synthetic in that weight. I run synthetics in my engine but not in anything else. I might do that when I get my R151F tranny and dual cases installed.

 

just let off the gas. it is pertty much the same thing as pushing in the clutch.

 

Everyone who has an auto with the lockright says they are VERY easy to handle on the road. Since power is applied so much smoother then with a manual you dont really have to worry about most of the "unique" handling issues we face.

Thanks for the info Seafarinman, I will take a peek at the local parts stores for the thicker gear oil.

Think I should put it in even though we are getting down to -2°C most nights?

 

I never saw that in the instructions and as such am running standard weight oil in mine and I haven't had any problems. I am going to go back and read the instructions though and if it says that in mine too ( I have a 4 cyl version) I'm going to change it this weekend...





I find that smooth steady pedal is what I need to go around corners smoothly, but in parking lots when turning in I have to be on the clutch. As mentioned though when your motor is below the stall speed on the torque converter and you're off the gas I believe the back wheels are free wheeling.

 

Well it really only says that a heavier oil will quiet it down and such.
You can run normal 75w-90 oil

 

Exactly. Sometimes you have to power as you go around a turn - then try to keep steady power going. Don't add or suddenly let off the gas and it will minimize the bad habits of the locker

 

I picked up the rear 3rd today. Heres a rundown of what happened:

Tore the 3rd apart due to bad bearings, found that one of the side gears was literally welded in there. Gear guy had never seen anything like that before!

So on top of the new bearings there is new side gears aswell.

Hows the gear pattern look?




Run down of cost -

New factory 4.88 bearings - 180 ( ouch! )
Labor - 150
Misc parts (side gears, drive flange, abs sensor) 145

Of course no charge to install the lockright.

Im hoping to install these before I take a trip next weekend.

Im pretty sure I know what to do, correct me if im wrong.

Rear 3rd

Jack up truck
place on jackstands
Remove tires
Drain fluid
unbolt the 4 bolt flange
unbolt the driveshaft
slide out shafts ( all the way? )
unbolt 3rd
remove 3rd and unclip abs sensor

Install 3rd
Bolt up, attach speed sensor
slide shafts back in
Bolt up drive shaft and the 4bolt flanges
Bleed brakes
Fill up diff with new fluid

Front Diff:

Remove front driveshaft
unbolt all the ADD lines
remove bolts from cv joints
remove main mount bolts
lower diff

Install

Raise diff
Bolt up main bolts
slide cv joints back in and bolt up
Attach ADD lines
bolt up driveshaft


Do you guys have any recomendations or tips? I have never done this before so its gonna be fun

Gear oil will be Amsoil 75w-90 severe gear synthetic front and rear

 

You got all the right ideas. The front will be more of a pain than the rear just because you have to a lot more to remove and re-install.

Don't forget to RTV (seal) the thirds to the housings. I wouldnt bother w/ new gaskets, RTV by itself is sufficient IME. You don't need to take the axles out of the rear housing completely but you can if you want. Its also a good time to check the inner oil seals (they're on the ends of the rear axle housing).

Btw its a ton of fun muscling the third members up in there, dont hurt your back doing this. It's an awkward position to be lifting a lot of iron.