Yeah, so i bought the pads, got em home to replace em, and now i can't unbolt the lower caliper bolt.

They're soaking in *forget the name* degreasing stuff to un-stick em...

Do you normally have a hard time getting them off, and should i just give it my all, or relax and investigate the problem??

Thanks

 

I soaked mine in PB Blaster. They came right out! Soak, then tap with hammer, soak, then tap with hammer. If they have never came out, they could have a hard time releasing.

 

Right tighty lefty loosey...sometimes you can get crossed up working from the backside.

Impact and a wobble socket.

 

blow torch...

 

Breaker bar. I'm pretty sure the factory used Lock-tite on them. I used a 1/2" drive socket with a 2 1/2 ft bar to break mine loose.

 

Dynamite.


I used anti-seize on mine. We'll see if they fall off. Why are you removing the calipers unless you are doing the rotors as well?

 

^^ thats what I was thinking.... all you need to do is use a pry bar( against the pads) to compress the pistons, then pull the pads...easy as pie, takes 3 min....10 max...

 

Do check your calipers to make sure the pistons fully retract smoothly, it is likely that they will be toast if the fluid is brown. Only half the pistons on my brakes were working- good way to totally warp a rotor.

Not certain Lock-tite would work and break calipers heat up a bit. Old (been in the truck a while) DOT 3 will do 150*C (~300*F).

 

Being a 2WD you have the caliper that you just remove the little M8x1.25 bolt and rotate the caliper up.

Is that correct not the 4 piston calipers found on the 4x4 with the two pins that hold the pads on.

I use never seize on all the brake hardware and hi temp brake grease else where when needed

 

hahaha no worries... got out my good old 4 ft lead rod and leveraged the baby loose

 

So I broke the bolt off and now i can't get the stupid cone washers out of my hubs to be able to take my rotor off and drill from the other side... The service manual says to tap the studs with a brass bar. I beat the heck out of them with a steel bar, broke a screwdriver off in the little slit and pounded the end on my small punch til i was ready to loose it.. I still have yet to remove one cone washer.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

mine was the same way.. i just replaced both calipers, pads, and rotors.. it was to a point i could'nt make it to town w/o pulling over and cooling down the rotors... but now everything works great. i might replace all the brake fluid to be safe...

i have to say for a first time brake job on this yota it was a major PIA!!! i'm sure it'll go a little smoother next time

just keep at it with a hammer.. it took me a while before mine came lose.. tap tap and tap some more. use a screw driver to tap the conenwasher from the sides.. they WILL work their was lose.. use some pb on them as well. and keep tapping

 

the trick i use with the cone washers is to loosen the nut enough so its flat with the end of the stud, and hammer on that, they seem to pop right off.

 

Thanks guys, got them off. Now i just need to find some one who wants to lend me a big ass socket...

 

well i did'nt like to do it.. but it was already done once before. is use a screw driver and tap them counterclock wise to get them off.. it wont really hurt them... they are not on very tight.

 

Yeah thats fine for removing them but its very hard to get an accurate "feel" for setting the preload on the bearings when reinstalling the rotors. Get the tool-54mm socket I believe.

 

Thanks, yeah i got them off that way no problem. Trying to get them back on was tricky but then i had to take them back apart because i damaged my studs taking the cone washers off. I think i will try to get the right socket (FSM says 54mm). It looks like i'm gonna need a CV soon so i'm sure it will come in handy again.

Cone washers... another reason to get manual hubs!

Learned a few lessons the hard way on this break job

 

Manaul hubs re-use cone washers

They are super easy taking off once you have done it once. Tap the stud with a brass hammer, then tap a thin flathead into the slit in the cone washer. No problem!