A/C problem
#1
A/C problem
Ok now that I finally have the truck running properly I'd like to have a/c. I had never had the a/c belt on so I went and bought one. When I turn on the a/c button it lights up but the a/c does not work. The clutch does not engage at all. But when I put 12 volts to the compressor clutch it engages. Is it not engaging because the pressure is too low in the system or do I have some kind of electricle problem?
#6
Get some de-natured alcohol and flush the system. Or find a friend that can get you R-12. You want to make sure there is no R-12 in the system. If R-12 and R-134 are mixed they will make some sort of acid, which will eat a hole through your evaporator and mess up the inside of your compressor.
#7
Originally Posted by ramrugby09
Ok I'm pretty sure that my system is completly empty. I pushed in the little bike looking valve thing and nothing came...I did it on both...Now what should I do?
I would take it to an AC shop and have them pull a vacumum on it for at least a few hours and recharge it with R134.
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#8
Originally Posted by 86SR522REEFI
Get some de-natured alcohol and flush the system. Or find a friend that can get you R-12. You want to make sure there is no R-12 in the system. If R-12 and R-134 are mixed they will make some sort of acid, which will eat a hole through your evaporator and mess up the inside of your compressor.
Last edited by mt_goat; Jul 19, 2006 at 07:09 AM.
#11
Originally Posted by ramrugby09
So you are saying if I use the oil I can charge with the r134 without getting every last bit of r-12 out?
#14
what i'd do is put 50 lb of nitrogen and a trace amount of r12 into the high side of the system. then you want to hav a leak detector to find if there is a leak. when you find it fix it and then charge it to lb specs. its best to weigh it in to get the proper charge. dont mess with the oil.
#16
Originally Posted by sumdumacguy
what i'd do is put 50 lb of nitrogen and a trace amount of r12 into the high side of the system. then you want to hav a leak detector to find if there is a leak. when you find it fix it and then charge it to lb specs. its best to weigh it in to get the proper charge. dont mess with the oil. 

#17
r12 is very xpensive and hard to come by in ca. for cars. if you put 134 in it it'll blow the seal and internal problems as well. a trace of 12 is to find the leak and nitrogen to give the pres. to make that happen. pulling a vacuum is only after freon is out of the system. you should pull it to 4 microns and then weigh the freon in. you can only use 134 after you retofit the system
#18
Originally Posted by sumdumacguy
r12 is very xpensive and hard to come by in ca. for cars. if you put 134 in it it'll blow the seal and internal problems as well. a trace of 12 is to find the leak and nitrogen to give the pres. to make that happen. pulling a vacuum is only after freon is out of the system. you should pull it to 4 microns and then weigh the freon in. you can only use 134 after you retofit the system 

Last edited by mt_goat; Jul 19, 2006 at 10:31 AM.
#19
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Earlier you said after fixing the leak (assuming he has one of course) "and then charge it to lb specs". So did you mean for him to recharge it with R134 but don't mess with the oil?
#20
Originally Posted by sumdumacguy
well he most likley has a leak if there is no pres. in low or high side. but yiu cnt put 134 in a 12 system with out doing mods (retrofit). The 2 oils with these refrigerants are engineered to be compatable w/the refrigerant in the system so they can get back to the compressor to lubrcate. sorry if i was mis understood :pat:
I know they used to say you couldn't convert to R-134 with replacing all this stuff, but after Toyota did some field testing my understanding is that the systems will handle it just fine with the ester oil in there. This info is from a top Toyota tech at a dealership.
Last edited by mt_goat; Jul 19, 2006 at 10:55 AM.


