Well...Ive never had air so I said screw it. I Used the oil then filled the system with r134. To get it to flow in I had to jump the clutch. Once I had it full I tried to reconnect the wire to the clutch but still no go. With the jumper wire it does get cold, so any ideas? Where is this pressure sensor? What do yall think?

 

Im not sure what you mean by castrolreto a/c ester oil but here it goes.
if the oil isnt designed to work with the refrigerant it cannot flow threw the system. most of the oil will stay in the compresor but the oil traveling thru the system (if not compatable ) can create a waxie build up. this wax can clog at the metering device and freeze up, or form a sludge. Also different comp. use different oil viscosities. 134 systems use polyalkalene glycol(pag syntheticoil)
A retro fit would be: new comp. and seals...etc.
You are right about acidic in the evaperator though but acidics will eat thru any evap. I had a dog lift his leg on my condensing unit outside my house and it ate awat it the aluminum fins until they were just about gone.
Sum dum ac guy

 

The oil that was given to me from a Toyota tech was Castrol Retro A/C. It is a polyol ester lubricant designed for use in R-12 or R-134a systems (at least that's what it says on the bottle).

 

Im not sure Ive never worked on vehicle a/c systems but the low pres. sensor should be connected to the low side line some where. itll have wires that should be in seies with the comp. to break the cicuit if there is low pres.
also if you didnt shoot it with nitrogen there could be moisture in the system.also if you didnt pull a vacuum (4microns) there could be non condensable in the system. Both will be a dangerous blend to create acidics in the system and without a new filter the compressor can be dammaged.

 

if hes a toyota tech w/ that info i stand corrected and i appologize if ive mis guided any one. is this for a later model vehicle?
I normally work on large buiding systems and super market stores but i do work with 134 and 12

 

Is the receiver/drier what you are calling the filter?

 

not sure. there shoud be a filter before the comp. to filter out acidics.

 

The reciever(if there is one would just give the liquid refrigerant a place to be hed until it is needed.

 

What did you charge the system to? My 93 FSM shows the low pressure switch will only turn on above 30 psi.

 

Yes, I found in my FSM that the receiver removes moisture, dirt, and also serves as a reservoir for excess refrigerant.

 

I charged it to 50psi thats what the instructions said to do for the temp being around 95 which is what it was today.

 

How much refrigerent will the system take? I put in around 1 and 3/4 cans. Also I noticed that the psi will drop if I rev the engine but returns when at idle, not sure if that means anything?

 

Ok well now the compressor will come on but only when you give it gas... At idle it will not engage. Does the pressure build when the rpms come up? (I am starting to think the guage I have may be faulty)

 

On my 91 V6, a faulty expansion valve kept the compressor from coming on.
Check, there was a recall on this item for certain models.
New 134 formulas are available with polyester "ester" oil that is fully compatible with the (hopefully) tiny remnants of R12 and mineral oil that may be left in your system. The last 12 months have seen many changes in the r134 formulations.

My experience/advice? Replace the receiver/dryer/filter and pull a good vacuum anytime you open the system, whatever the reason. Two of my Toys have leaked from rust that developed around the mounting bracket on the reciever/dryer/filter-I did a dye test and nitrogen and found the leak.

Also, I have first hand experience with this and it works, gotta' have an EPA 609 license to buy it though:
http://www.refimax.com/products/fr12...ages.htm#r134a

You can "drop it in" existing r12 systems without changing a thing.
Same goes for R406 "autofrost."

 

Interesting stuff Reldnew, so would you also recommend the FR12 with an exsiting R134 system or just for an R-12 conversion? The reason I ask is my system will be part a 93 R-12 system but with a 2001 R-134 compressor.

 

The manufacturer says it should work, but I have no first hand-or second, third or fourth, for that matter- experience. If the R134 cools well enough for you, stay with it because it is alot easier to get and cheaper. Last time I needed FR12 I think it was like $10.00 a can. If you have access to the 2001 donor car you got the compressor from, snag the condensor too. It'll be larger and thusly more tuned to the properties of the R134.

This is a good place to mention I am not a professional, just have alot of friends who are, and hang out at the shop constantly. But everything I mention has worked well for me

 

Ok thanks. The condenser was pretty twisted up (front impact crash) but even if it wasn't I don't think it would fit.

 

WHEN EVER CHARGING REFRIGERANT you should always weigh the charge in. if i remember correctly, my refrigeration books refered to toyotas in the text and stated that the operating conditions would be @ 70 miles per hour on the interstate(comp pumping to capacity).