brake work ??
#21
I changed my brake pads today. My driver's side caliper was sticking. I compressed it, put the old brake pad in, pressed on the brakes, and repeated a few times. Now it works fine.
For some reason my truck is pulling to the left really bad...I guess it wasn't the caliper, and visually everything looks fine, so I guess I need to go to a shop to figure out the cause =/
For some reason my truck is pulling to the left really bad...I guess it wasn't the caliper, and visually everything looks fine, so I guess I need to go to a shop to figure out the cause =/
#22
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
If it's pulling to the left, odds are your caliper is STICK, which will require a rebuild at minimum or replacement. For my trouble, I went with WABFAB's replacement calipers. They were fantastic.

Save yourself a lot of headaches & replace them both at the same time.

Save yourself a lot of headaches & replace them both at the same time.
#23
wolfrunner you're way off topic, I'm specifically asking for help on removing the Cone Washers. This is necessary to replace the rotors.
SteveyCapri I just got two new calipers for about $30 each, you can get a rebuild kit cheaper but chances are it's worth an extra $20 to just change them out and it's less work.
SteveyCapri I just got two new calipers for about $30 each, you can get a rebuild kit cheaper but chances are it's worth an extra $20 to just change them out and it's less work.
#24
#25
Cone Washer Removal
The other day i was having trouble with Cone Washer removal. I'll let you in on the purpose behind the metal rod method.
When you hit/tap (beat the hell out of) the stud with a metal hammer, what you're doing is transferring a shock wave into the rust. Its VERY important that the shock is being efficiently transfered. That is why a metal rod (shorter is better) is recommended.
What i did is took my 4lb sludge hammer, put it directly on the stud, took my regular hammer, and beat it. All the cone washer came out with enough sharp, hard blows. Its a very crude process and the neighbors may complain.
When you hit/tap (beat the hell out of) the stud with a metal hammer, what you're doing is transferring a shock wave into the rust. Its VERY important that the shock is being efficiently transfered. That is why a metal rod (shorter is better) is recommended.
What i did is took my 4lb sludge hammer, put it directly on the stud, took my regular hammer, and beat it. All the cone washer came out with enough sharp, hard blows. Its a very crude process and the neighbors may complain.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; Apr 11, 2009 at 11:05 AM. Reason: Inappropriate Language removed
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