hotbunz4

So for a safety I need new rotors (they're rusty - not sure why I can't just sand it off - I guess they're "pitted"). The shop said I need to replace the pads at the same time even though mine arn't fully worn. I'm not an expert, but this doesn't make sense to me, so I'm looking for a second opinion.
Should I get new pads when replacing the rotors?
Can't I just sand the rust off, they look fine to me otherwise?
Also, one of the calipers is "tight." Will I need a new caliper or can this be fixed?
What are common causes of this?
Thanks,

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

When you replace pads it is stupid not to turn the rotors. Rotors shouldn't be "rusty". Calipers either work or they don't, tight is BS.

I imagine damn near freezing weather and all the salt on the roads living in North Ontario is what causes this.

myyota

It would be a good idea to replace the pads if your getting new rotors installed, if your rotors are rusty and there not to bad they can be cleaned up, but if there pitted then they should be replaced.

anotherjeff

Rotors get rusty when sitting. Sandpaper the rust off!

I respectfully do not agree with WabFab, "When you replace pads it is stupid not to turn the rotors."

When replacing pads at home, it is not feasible to turn the rotors! Some shops turn rotors whether they need to be turned or not - it's all profit, and then you quickly have rotors that are too thin to be turned again. New pads will quickly seat to any existing grooves. Rotors should be measured for acceptable thickness.

Ezrider_92356

just hold the breaks while you drive for a few blocks should take that rust right off. how long has the vehical been sitting?

Matt16

^Way easier than sanding.

Go to a car dealership after it rains. All the cars that have sat a while will show rust on the rotors. Up here (northwest), that means that from about September-June, all cars that sit for more than a week have lots of rust on the calipers. Its never been a problem. SOmetimes it sounds a little rough when you brake, but thats gone pretty quick. The only rust i'd worry about is in the brake fluid itself (like if its darkly coloured). That indicates rust inside the brake system, probably in the calipers. The may cause the brake pads to drag against the rotors.

I didn't do that and my brake are fine. Changing the pads takes 20min, taking off the rotors takes much longer. i've heard to machine the rotors every second pad replacement.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

On my F350 I had the rotors turned. On my 87 4Runner rotors are cheap...simply replacing the pads that are worn down without inspecting the rotors and turning them IS stupid, really cheaper to replace the things these days (or it is for me). Of course it is all profit, you took it to a business in business to make profit. If you can't do it right at home then you need to take it to a shop.

I just replaced the pads on an 87 I bought and the dside outside rotor surface looking like a pair of coudoroy pants it was grooved so bad, only surface that was really bad. After I took both sides off you could visually tell the rotors had probably never been turned but were warped to hell. Simply replacing the pads would have made it stop better for a while, but would have worn out prematurely and the dreadful brake shimmy would not have gone away. If you are wearing out brake pads so fast that you can't afford to at least inspect the rotors, replace or turn then you need to learn how to drive.

How long are you brake pads lasting? Seriously, I can't remember the last time I've had to change a brake pad on any of my Toyotas but on the 87 this past weekend it took me maybe 2 hours to change pads/rotors both sides and $100.

Don't be too cheap to take the time and money to make sure one of the most important systems on your vehicle is in the proper shape.

Bigblock

Go Wabbit.
Bigblock

Ezrider_92356

i don't typically replace the rotors every break job if they look good i scuff them up to break the glaze and throw on new pads, after a few breaks jobs though they need to be turned or replaced

abecedarian

If I did not have a vibration when braking, I'd be less likely to have them turned or replaced. I would check them for runout, warpage and distortion as well as thickness and repair or replace them as necessary.
I would replace pads and/or rotors on both sides of an axle anytime I replace either side.
I have seen calipers 'stick' or be 'tight' and depending on the cause would likely replace them, particularly if the cause was rust in the piston(s)... and only after completely flushing the brake system.
Surface rust on a rotor will easily be removed by driving the vehicle or with a brass wheel on a drill. If the rust has pitted and or eroded the surface though, that's another story... and whether I turned it or not would be determined by the severity of the problem.

Matt16

I agree, if I needed rotors turned, I might just buy new.

My pads were at 40% when I bought the truck a little over a year ago. I replaced them with about 1/8" of material left. The new pads were about were about 1/2" or maybe 7/16", according to my mental math they wear at about 15% per year, but that's not right as that means that the pads last 6.7 years (not likely).

I've never personally owned a vehicle to wear out the pads I've installed.

hotbunz4

The truck has been sitting for a year.
Any more thoughts on replacing the pads at the same time?
I don't want to throw out pads that are only half wore for no reason.
I don't want to cheap out either. I'd probably want to change both calipers if I had to do any and that's getting pricey. Might as well get some SS lines to go with it.

scope103

If the rotors are really pitted (or scored from a pad being run too long), you should replace them. At Autozone around here (where things are expensive) they're $38. I haven't priced turning a rotor in a while, but I paid $25 about 10 years ago. In newer vehicles the math is even closer; with the availability of iron foundries in India, rotors can be made so cheaply that the manufacturers spec them very thin. Cheaper to replace than turn, so why provide extra metal that isn't going to be used?

If you're sitting in a well-equipped shop, you might be tempted to save a few bucks and turn the rotors, but if you're sitting in a garage in Ontario you have to pull the rotor, drive it (in what?) to the machine shop, then drive back two days later. Cheaper and easier to pick up the (new) parts ahead of time.

If the rotor isn't scored or badly pitted, don't bother turning them (IMHO). Sand them (with wet-or-dry, garnet paper isn't hard enough) to break the glaze, and just keep going. Remember that you have to reset the wheel bearing pre-load when you remove the rotors, so it isn't trivial.

Do you need to replace the pads? Pads here are $16-$60 (both sides). If you're in there replacing your pitted rotors, just go ahead and replace the pads too. Your time is worth something.

jeebus

scope103 I'm working on this now, you mention "Remember that you have to reset the wheel bearing pre-load when you remove the rotors, so it isn't trivial." I have not been able to find good instructions on this.

I have new pads/rotor and two two new calipers since they were so cheep. It was either that or brake kits which aren't worth my time...

My problem is that there is a chrome-ish open-ended cap over the Axle Hub which prevents me from removing the free-wheel/locking-hub-assembly. I can see the nuts over the six bolts but just can't get at them. Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
'85 4runner 4cyl 4wd in Michigan

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte..._end/teardown/

jeebus

Thanks for the quick response but this does not address the chrome-ish open-ended cap problem previously mentioned. Notice I've removed the small bolts but there are six more marked in green that I cannot access:

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

That would be a chrome wheel center cap. Cut that crap off of there or beat it off with a big rubber hammer.

jeebus

yeah it's really stuck then, i'll keep trying though... Thanks!

jeebus

Ok, I was really busy last week but I'm back at it now. I took off the chrome crap and Hub-Body-Nuts, but the bolts have some kind of Cone Washer. Hanes says "Using a tapered punch, tap on the slits of the cone washers and remove them", not very helpful. Does anyone know what I'm really trying to do here?

The metal of the washers just seems to bend when I hammer at it. Does "tapered punch" refer to a specific tool other than "appropriately sized screwdriver?"

thanks again, jason k

wolfrunner

wow. so many people just throw there crap together and drive down the road. i hope i never drive next to anyone who just slaps pads and used sand paper to take the glaze off there rotors when they have more problems with there brakes than they know. if your rotors are rusty when you have been driving your truck dosent that not make sense?! obviously the caliper isnt doing its job. get rid of the caliper and get a new one. some people on here just post what they have done and that dosent mean its right. doing the right thing usually isnt the cheap way to go but you need to understand that it may be the safe way to go. do things right the first time and you wont be sorry.