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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Brake master cylinder issues?

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Old May 8, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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HeroEnVec's Avatar
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From: West Alabama
Brake master cylinder issues?

Just wanted to check and see if you guys agree with my prognosis.

When I hit my brakes hard and fast they work fine. If I apply gentle pressure very slowly, i can get the pedal almost to the floor. For me, that says the seals on the inside of the brake master are gone.

What do you guys think?
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Old May 9, 2014 | 04:14 AM
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MC is definitely where I would start. Once the pedal is to the floor, if you pump it again hard does it get solid again briefly? That's exactly what MCs tend to do when they leak internally.

I assumed you're not losing brake fluid (no external leak?)
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Old May 9, 2014 | 09:02 AM
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no loss of fluid. And yes, if I release and punch it fast it solidifies and the brakes work fine. At first I thought it might be a booster issue, but now I am fairly certain it is the master. I can rev the engine up and hold it at about 3k... and still can press teh brake to the floor if I go slow.

What brake fluid do you guys use? Anyone had issues with a standard autozone (or similar) master cylinder?
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Old May 9, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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All DOT 3 is basically the same, unlike motor oil. Parts store or Walmart brand is fine.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:34 PM
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Simply sounds like you need a proper bleed to me.
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Old May 11, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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That too, but what the OP is describing isn't just air in the lines.
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Old May 12, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by HighLux
Simply sounds like you need a proper bleed to me.
Originally Posted by RustBucket
That too, but what the OP is describing isn't just air in the lines.
It doesn't sound like air in the lines to me either. Very generally, air in the lines gives a "spongy" feel, the pedal doesn't slowly sink, and pumping the brakes doesn't improve things.

Yup, start by replacing the Master cylinder.

While you're at it, what color is the brake fluid? Black? Then take the time to replace it (when new, it's clear). Your master cylinder (and calipers/wheel cylinders) will last longer.
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Old Jun 5, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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going to be a big job... Started seeing a little oil drip here and there now from the rear main seal... so I have to do that, the clutch (might as well), might as well do all new brake pads, and the master cylinder. After all that though, it should be good for quite a long time.

Is there a manual that you guys prefer over others? I'll be needing torque values amongst other things for all this.
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Old Jun 6, 2014 | 04:54 AM
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Most will recommend the Factory Service manual, I have one but use my Haynes manual most of the time. Dont waste your time with Chilton Manuals.

The fluid in these lines get pretty nasty. I take the lines off at the cylinders and from the master cylinder, I use low pressure air to blow all of the junk out of the lines if the brake system has been poorly cared for. Taking your front calipers apart is easy to do as well and using low pressure air to push out the pistons in the calipers and get behind them clean is easy to do. They sell a seal kit for them for cheap and do it all at once. It will make a difference.
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