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Body lift running rough (after install)

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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 06:03 PM
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Body lift running rough (after install)

Just wondering if anyone has had any complications with their 22re running awful after a 1" body lift. Not sure if I stretched out some wires somewhere but I'm getting severe misfires under load. Is there any specific ground wires/anything that I should look into more? I tried looking around and everything seems to be alright. Looking for some actual experience anyones had? Let me know thanks!
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 12:15 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Have you looked at the one from the firewall to the back of the head .

It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time

you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.

pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.

Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Have you looked at the one from the firewall to the back of the head .

It can`t hurt to look at your ground cables at any time

you didn`t kink or crush any fuel lines when you were installing this.

pull the coil wire out of the coil part way.

Could just be unrelated and time for a major tune up when was the last one.
All engine grounds look to be hooked up, although the ground from the passenger fender to the negative battery cable is not, I don't think this has ever been hooked up before since i've had the truck though.. Full tune-up as of yesterday plugs, wires, cap/rotor, ignition coil. Just wondering if there is some kind of ground wire on the chassis I'm overlooking..
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:33 AM
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From: Sacramento, Crawlifonia
I had the same issue about seven years ago. I drove my truck around for several months with no problem, then I made a trip to Washington state and back to Cali. The day after I returned the truck would not start. After two months of trouble shooting and replacing many expensive parts I got it to idle but would not drive down the road. I broke down and took it to the shop. My mechanic had it for one month, and he discovered it was the grounds. My mechanic fixed the grounds, and installed three new gournds just in case.


I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally Posted by dark_fairytales
I had the same issue about seven years ago. I drove my truck around for several months with no problem, then I made a trip to Washington state and back to Cali. The day after I returned the truck would not start. After two months of trouble shooting and replacing many expensive parts I got it to idle but would not drive down the road. I broke down and took it to the shop. My mechanic had it for one month, and he discovered it was the grounds. My mechanic fixed the grounds, and installed three new gournds just in case.


I am 100% positive it is your grounds, so be sure all the grounds have prefect metal to metal contact.
Besides the battery ground to block, head to firewall, intake manifold and alternator ground, are there anymore that those 4? All the info I look up only says there are those 4 and they all seem to be alright. I'll double check again but are there more than 4 grounds in the engine?
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 10:09 AM
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Those are the ones, pull the grounds off, lightly sand their ends, and reattach, could be corrosion.

Also, chase the wires, the body lift could have exacerbated a loose, or broken ground wire.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 10:13 AM
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Checked the air intake tubing or couplings? The filter housing just moved up an inch while the engine didn't, you could have opened up a crack on the underside somewhere giving yourself a vacuum leak.
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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was the misfire present before the tune-up?
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by oldblue
was the misfire present before the tune-up?
Yes misfire started the day after BL was installed. Did a full tune up and still running bad.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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From: Boise, Idaho
Ended up taking it to the mechanic who fixed a cross threaded plug hole which they thought was it. Not.. Took it back in, said it was the ignition coil (which I replaced a few months ago), got a new one from the warranty, nope. Took it back in again.. now they tell me it's because burning too much oil. Told me it was either valve seals or rings (obviously), didn't do a compression test or anything and told me to rebuild it and pick it up whenever. After screwing up 2 other times when diagnosing not sure to believe or not? It's always burned the same amount of oil since I've bought it. I guess I'll run another compression test and check to see if there's any oil fouling the plugs? Thinking about getting a second opinion somewhere else.. any thoughts?
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Did the voltage drop tests on those grounds yet?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.

And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.

3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..

But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.

So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Did the voltage drop tests on those grounds yet?
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

Just because a wire "seems good" doesn't mean it is you need to test those ground connections. Also don't overlook the plug under the passenger seat, since it connects to the tank/frame.

And since lots of people have problems deciphering the TS chart..
1: Fuel quality, 2: EGR System, 3: Spark plug, 4: Ignition circuit, 5: Distributor, 6: ECT sensor circuit, 7: Compression, 8: VAFM Circuit, 9: Injectors, 10: Cold start system, 11: ECM.

3,4, and 5 All were effected by the lift. The ~20 year old wires aren't where they've been for thier lifetime. Could be "just", wire fatigue, busted shielding on the ignition-ECM wires, loose or stretched wires, ect..

But you can't overlook the rest of the inspections. Since it only happens under load my guess is the EGR modulator, but it's just a random guess that assumes it's not really related to the lift.

So in conclusion, Ground straps voltage drop tests, Inspect the intake tubes TWICE off the vehicle, then proceed with the numbered check list and pay particular attention to wires that connect between the frame and body.
Lots of good info, will check more into it all tomorrow thanks!
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 12:54 AM
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From: Colorado


Find anything yet?
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 11:08 PM
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From: Boise, Idaho
Originally Posted by Co_94_PU


Find anything yet?
As of tonight I found my wiring harness rubbed through the outer layer where it rests on top of the fuel rail under the upper intake. Hard to really see underneath how far its through but it seems to have rubbed through some wires. I think the bare wires resting on the fuel rail was shorting out causing the problems. I just put a small heater hose around it for now so it's not resting on the metal anymore and actually seems to be running alot better. I'll know for sure by tomorrow but I'm fairly certain that is the problem. If it turns out then I'll have to pull the intake off and do an actual permanent fix than how it is now.
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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 12:31 AM
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From: Colorado
Yep that could do it! Don't overlook the many ground wires in that section of the harness, E1 and E2 run thru there as well as #10 and #20.

As smokie the bears mechanic says, "Only you can prevent engine fires!"
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