slcpunk

okay just bought an 86' pickup has the 22-ret in it... drove it for a few weeks drove over a few bumps and it began to blow blueish smoke, took it in to be looked at and was told the engine needed to be rebuild, the guy asked for a ton to do it so i went somewhere else, they rebuilt it then told me my turbo needed to be rebuilt because it was burning the oil. what is the best solution for getting this fixed... rebuild stock turbo which i heard has alot of problems or replace with after market/different turbo. what is the cost, heard i can put a buick grand national turbo in????

SeeBeeAre

if you go with the other turbo how much for the turbo from your existing one. Never took apart a turbo befor but it sounds more like a valve seal problem then a turbo problem there not a lot to a turbo... (speaking broadly haven't ever seen a stock toyota one up close and personal but if you deside to get rid of it i'll take it let me know???

Flash319

Those turbos are small and it is usually hard to get someone to rebuild it. If you can go that route that is your best option. Don't put in another turbo because the blades will be wrong for your engine. It may work but not properly.

Engine oil is what is used as a bearing in a turbo. There are little bushings that the shaft runs on that are in between the hot and cold side of the turbo. Once the bushings start to go the oil will get sucked into the cold side (intake side) and you start burning it. After a while the blades start to touch the housing and break. A new turbo is about $1000 CAN.

Justin311

You will have no problem getting new seals for your turbo. The CT series is widely used and readily rebuildable. There are a number of companies that can do this for you, check into www.phoenixturbo.com or www.atsracing.net or www.dallasturbo.com. (Stay AWAY from Majestic Turbo. HORRIBLE company)

Unless there is something whacky with the 22RTE CT turbo, they will all run on 270* sleeve bearings (as opposed to 360* or ball bearings) and use a thin film of oil as a lubricant. The only thing that keeps the AIRSTREAM out of the oil (not vice versa) is an oil seal on either side. The seal is not intended to keep oil out of the airstream but also serves this function. When those seals are worn out they need to be replaced (oil can get in your intake path or exhaust pipes), but the bearings don't necessarily need to be done at the same time. You can tell when a bearing needs to be replaced by the shaft play (stick your hand in the inlet with the car OFF and move the shaft around with your hand). If the wheel can touch the housing its ready to be rebuilt. Check in and out play too.

If you just need seals replaced plan on a coupe hundred bucks. A full rebuild is closer to $400 or so I'd bet. It is not something you can do in your garage, the spinning assembly has to be balanced after the wheels are removed from the shaft.

You can most certainly swap your turbo for a different one, but a number of other issues will need to be addressed at the same time (fuel, ECU, intercooler, etc) so I don't think thats a route you'd want to take for just fixing an oil leak

dcg9381

The 22RTE has some parts that aren't compatable with the RE, as such, it can be very expensive to rebuild with OEM parts.

You need to figure out if you really need a motor rebuild or if the turbo was bad.. the motor usually outlasts the turbo. If a compression and/or leak down test was not done, there really isn't any way for a shop to tell you that it needs a rebuild.

Aftermarket adapters are available to bolt a t3/t4 on to the stock manifold.. If your turbo has shaft play, this may be the way to go over rebuilding the stocker, which can be real expensive.

ironroad9c1

i am betting the turbo is bad ,i just got rid of a turbo truck and it did the same thing your saying ,it doesn't take much oil on that red hot exhaust side to make some smoke,ther eturbo is bad , use the info above to get it rebuilt or get a rebuilt one and send yours in for the core,check ebay also under turbo and supercharger parts and search for ct20

soarerjzz30

The turbos found in these vehicles aren't that great. They tend to crack around 70-80k in the exhaust outlet. Basically heat killed it, no intercooler plus a bad design. Rebuilt a friends turbo 4runner with 187k, pulled the turbo and sure enough, cracked exh. outlet.

http://www.bchawkins.com/22rte.html

dcg9381

It isn't just the heat.. The major issue is that there is no flexibility in the downpipe design, so the engine twists the turbo housing and manifold..

Junk the CT20... It's not worth rebuilding in most cases. Go to a t3/t4 with the same boost - or a ct26 (supra) - you an covert to either with a stock manifold.

I'd like to start building performance downpipes (with flex) for the CT20 - if you've got a core I can use to mock up, I'll send it back and sell you a downpipe at cost. email me.

Bumpin' Yota

wow that poor guy in the link went through hell with his 22ret....

dcg9381

I can't find the price on an adapter plate right now, but it would be relatively easy for a machine shop to fabricate and shouldn't cost you more than $125 or so.

You can get a replacment manifold starting in the ~$225 range or so - turbular, which is probably the right way to go.
http://www.fullboogie.net/

With a t3 flange, you can use a LOT of turbos. You need to remember not to go beyond 8-9psi or so as the stock ECU doesn't use a MAP sensor. T3/t4 turbos are extremely common.. I'd expect to pay another $250 or so for one in good shape sized for your application. Higher end stuff runs over $1k, full ball bearing, but you don't need it without fuel control.

A t3/t4 at sub 9psi will probably take that motor to 160-170 hp.
Run a leakdown / compression test just to check the condition of the motor itself.

foot0069

Volvos from the 80's ran t3's I can get em in the upulit yard here for I think 30 bucks or so.If you want a good core let me know and I'll get ya one.
Jim

Hodakaguy

I just replaced my turbo on my 86 RTE pickup. I went with the Turbo Engineering Kit, so far I'm really happy with it. It's set up with the stock boost pressure but it spins up a lot faster than the stock turbo did. I did a small write up on it at:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...&highlight=tec

You can also go to yahoo groups and there is a whole group dedicated to the 22 RTE engine, a lot of great info there. Here is the link to the RTE group:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/22RTE-Trucks/

Hope this helps.

Hodakaguy