Blinking O/D Light
#1
Blinking O/D Light
I know this has been covered, and I did my research and found the "how-to-check" info. But I think my problem is a little different, so I will address it here:
I had an overheating issue with my transmission. I had it rebuilt, and have been having bugs with it ever since. After the rebuild it kept overheating (2 or 3 more times) so I kept bringing it back, and they kept doing work to it. Not sure exactly what the shop has done, but it no longer overheats.
It does, however, get the flashing O/D light issue, which is also paired with that "slipping-clutch" feeling when taking off from a start. I brought the truck in twice now since noticing this and explained the situation. Both times they said they hooked their scanners up to it, did the check I found a .pdf for on this forum, and they found no problems/no codes.
Each time they had kept the truck overnight and had one of the guys drive it home with him - which was about a 30 min. trip. They requested this to try and see if the problem would replicate itself so that they could better address it. After going to pick it up the 2nd time I brought it in, they said they replaced Solenoid 1 "just because" and explained that it may be a bug that isn't showing, and the replacement may solve the issue.
Well, I had it happen again the other night. My questions are as follows:
1). Once the light starts blinking, is it "supposed" to keep blinking until it is erased? Because mine will blink for a few mins. then stop, and never come back again.
2). Why isn't the code showing up when they try to check for it? Could this be some other issue I am not seeing?
I had an overheating issue with my transmission. I had it rebuilt, and have been having bugs with it ever since. After the rebuild it kept overheating (2 or 3 more times) so I kept bringing it back, and they kept doing work to it. Not sure exactly what the shop has done, but it no longer overheats.
It does, however, get the flashing O/D light issue, which is also paired with that "slipping-clutch" feeling when taking off from a start. I brought the truck in twice now since noticing this and explained the situation. Both times they said they hooked their scanners up to it, did the check I found a .pdf for on this forum, and they found no problems/no codes.
Each time they had kept the truck overnight and had one of the guys drive it home with him - which was about a 30 min. trip. They requested this to try and see if the problem would replicate itself so that they could better address it. After going to pick it up the 2nd time I brought it in, they said they replaced Solenoid 1 "just because" and explained that it may be a bug that isn't showing, and the replacement may solve the issue.
Well, I had it happen again the other night. My questions are as follows:
1). Once the light starts blinking, is it "supposed" to keep blinking until it is erased? Because mine will blink for a few mins. then stop, and never come back again.
2). Why isn't the code showing up when they try to check for it? Could this be some other issue I am not seeing?
#2
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i dont know if the fault is stored in for the transmission but you can check it yourself very easily next time it happens. jump the e1 and the te1 ports in the diagnostic plug next to your fuse block under the hood. you can use anything metal that will hold its shape(i.e. bobby pin, piece of wire, etc.) be careful not to arc to any other spots, you can damage the ecu. there are hundreds of o-rings, ball bearings, and springs in a transmission, any of them being out of place could cause the issue. maybe you got a lemon.
#3
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Sounds like you went to the wrong shop.
Have another shop take a look at it. If I ever have a shop do something....they get one chance to fix before they lose my trust forever.
Have another shop take a look at it. If I ever have a shop do something....they get one chance to fix before they lose my trust forever.
#4
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C'mon, don't guess. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...31diagnosi.pdf (The diagnostic trouble code is retained in memory.)
You've got an intermittent problem, and it's just as much a headache for the shop as it is for you. But as Built2Grind suggests, you should carry a paperclip. Hop right out when the O/D light starts flashing and read the code.
1) Jumpering TE1 to E1 also triggers the CEL; it will just flash (because you have no codes to read). Don't worry about it.
2) The transmission codes "point" to a solenoid, but if you have an intermittent problem it is just as likely (if not more so) to be in the wiring. Think expansively.
Good luck!
You've got an intermittent problem, and it's just as much a headache for the shop as it is for you. But as Built2Grind suggests, you should carry a paperclip. Hop right out when the O/D light starts flashing and read the code.
1) Jumpering TE1 to E1 also triggers the CEL; it will just flash (because you have no codes to read). Don't worry about it.
2) The transmission codes "point" to a solenoid, but if you have an intermittent problem it is just as likely (if not more so) to be in the wiring. Think expansively.
Good luck!
#5
i dont know if the fault is stored in for the transmission but you can check it yourself very easily next time it happens. jump the e1 and the te1 ports in the diagnostic plug next to your fuse block under the hood. you can use anything metal that will hold its shape(i.e. bobby pin, piece of wire, etc.) be careful not to arc to any other spots, you can damage the ecu. there are hundreds of o-rings, ball bearings, and springs in a transmission, any of them being out of place could cause the issue. maybe you got a lemon.
It is under warranty from the transmission rebuild. Regardless of how many attempts it takes them to get it right, I don't see much sense in paying another shop to do this when it's already being done for "free." Yeah, its a PITA to keep going back, but worth the money IMO.
#6
Registered User
The shop did this already and found no codes.
It is under warranty from the transmission rebuild. Regardless of how many attempts it takes them to get it right, I don't see much sense in paying another shop to do this when it's already being done for "free." Yeah, its a PITA to keep going back, but worth the money IMO.
It is under warranty from the transmission rebuild. Regardless of how many attempts it takes them to get it right, I don't see much sense in paying another shop to do this when it's already being done for "free." Yeah, its a PITA to keep going back, but worth the money IMO.
I gotcha.
#7
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lets say hypothetically you did get a transmission fault code. what good would it do? You already have narrowed it down to the tranny so the light tells you nothing you don't already know right? You said the tranny feels like its slipping which typically means they didn't rebuild it right.
All else fails swap in a manual tranny. you'll thank me
All else fails swap in a manual tranny. you'll thank me
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#8
lets say hypothetically you did get a transmission fault code. what good would it do? You already have narrowed it down to the tranny so the light tells you nothing you don't already know right? You said the tranny feels like its slipping which typically means they didn't rebuild it right.
All else fails swap in a manual tranny. you'll thank me
All else fails swap in a manual tranny. you'll thank me
The "good" the transmission fault code will do is tell me what is causing the fault code, therefore allowing me to fix it i.e. new solenoid, speed sensor, etc.
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