JUNKERS and BLEEDER....what's the response from LCE or Pacesetter in regards to this....are these a design flaw or what? even just under $200 for the Pacesetter is still alot of $$ to just have me say that it's only going to last for a little while or to be using 2 gaskets like with the LCE one.....I can't see how that's a terrible thing, but did they says that's to be expected.

I'm seeing you guys talk about it and I already have plans for next year's tax refund and a header is on the list, but you guys are spooking me.

Don't mean to hijack BLEEDER, but since you guys are talking about it.......

 

and I know I've seen the threads about "what header?" and the debates and recommendations that ensued....but I also know that Thorley and LCE are at the upper end of the price range while OBX and Pacesetter are at the other, cheaper end.

 

The header is great, the connection pipe was ok, the mounting for the O2 sensor was dead on and they even provided extra wires for the O2 just in case. I did not call and complain about the grinding issue since I read that others had the same problem. All said and done there is a noticeable increase in throttle response and a great freaking sound along with a mild increase in mpg. I really have no complaints other than I thought it was going to be easier to get it mounted and sealed. So far I have a few thousand miles on those two gaskets and other than some minor carbon dust no real issues.

 

hey cool, thanks...sounds like an engineering / design flaw. nonetheless a worthwhile investment i think and as you say.

thanks for the reply

 

nope, no modifications required; just bolted right on they're pretty universal, although they're most commonly used on small block Chevy motors, and secure with the valve cover bolts to hold the spark plug wires up and away from the headers; I had them on the motor in my Monte Carlo I had before this truck










and yes, that car was a daily driver; an absolute BLAST to drive but expensive at the gas pump, lol

 

so if i was just to buy the later model re block and used the efi off the original 87 then i should be good to go, yes?
thanks for the help,

and bleeder.....wow great looking motor my friend, as said before, and ispiration to all

 

ok thanks junkers! so basically i need to take the header off, grind the flange a tad bit were i see bumps and what not, then seal it with copper coat stuff? here are pics of the header too, u can see the paint pealing already.
DSC02037.jpg?t=1268432506

DSC02039.jpg?t=1268432554
DSC02040.jpg?t=1268432596
you can see what the paint used to look like
DSC02041.jpg?t=1268432627

he sorry bleeder for the hijack lol i can go make a thread or something if u want?

 

Bleeder. New to this forum, but I've read through every page of this (give or take a few posts) thread. Is there any chance you've given a run-down of your investment in this project? I'm about to start a new tear down and wondered what a high quality job like yours would run. Sorry if I missed a post that already states this.

 

the entire ordeal ran me almost $2,500, but you have to remember that I also did the suspension work and steering fixes at the same time

but for the engine alone, let's see

$450 for the head and cam (if I recall correctly)
$400 for the machine work on the block
$175 or so for the rebuild kit, and new .30 over pistons
$175 I think for the clutch kit and slave and master cylinders
$120 or so for the misc. LCE goodies
$100 for the 130 amp alternator
$100 easily on the misc little things I got, like paint, cleaning supplies, tools that I didn't have, ect.


it added up really quickly...


and that wasn't too long after dumping over $1,000 into rebuilding the entire front end, and new tires and an alignment

 

I have about $1800 in mine. But that included a new crank and rods and a new carb. Basically the only thing left original toyota is the rocker arms and assembly, the block and main caps and the oil pan. lol.

$400 for the new head and cam from EB
$120 for the machine work on the block
$140 for the clutch kit
$400 for the weber
$160 for the crank
$100 for the rods
$350 for the master rebuild kit w/pistons/oil pump/timing chain from EB
$50 for new rocker adjusters and nuts.
$50 for the paint

 

How do you guys feel about leaving a seemingly problem-free head with 245,000 miles alone in a rebuild? I'd much rather focus on the short block and new HG and then work on the head if it ends up leaking in the future.

Edit: I would have it decked if need be. But leave valves/cam/lifters alone.

 

IMO it's better doing it that way then putting a brand new head on an old shortblock. But you can't beat $350 for a brand new complete quality head from ENGNBLDR. Yeah there are cheaper ones out there but....

 

That was kind of what I thought. Replacing the head or removing it to rebuild it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world it it turns out I need to replace valve seals or seats.

 

I wouldn't just leave it alone... for about $20 you can replace the valve stem seals, and lap the valves yourself with some lapping compound and one of those hand-operated lappers with the suction cups on it

that would be the way I would go if I didn't want to replace the head

 

How do you like your EB head and cam? I think I am going the same route.

 

How do you guys feel about long blocks from LCE? I noticed they have completes for $2k. Seems like it might be worth it since most people spend about that much and if I remember correctly the LCE comes with a warranty. I realize there's not nearly as much pride in it, but with that aside what's your opinions?

Correction: 22REperformance.com, not LCE. Lol, LCE is proud of their stuff. 22RE performance has it for $1800

 

Right now a new head is $438.00 free shipping at engnbldr.com for the stock head with a new cam, the new professional head is $538.00 free shipping with a new cam, I'm getting the stock head and stock cam. He's on ebay with heads and cams, both sold separately but buying both and they'll install the cam for you and if you add shipping it comes out the same price as on the web site, so buying either place will be same price...Still a sweet deal, and highly recommended and perfect rating on ebay so that says everything!!!!

 

Bleeder, Do you regret selling it yet?

 

just got done reading EVERY THING in this thread. DANG that was a LOT of work but looks like it was worth it as a side note what kind of mpg's were you getting after the rebuild? im prob. gonna do a similar build just wondering. btw AWSOME BUILD love the clean factor.

 

Bttt!