oh boy, what a night last night was


well, I started taping off the block (the head surface, the already installed brass freeze plugs, and all the points on the sides where any accesory or sencor bolts to it), and almost got done, and I noticed the wind picking up (looked like the tree in my front yard was about to up-root, lol), and then I heard some thunder... looked down the road, and here come's today's shower... I hate Florida this time of the year... it's either 120 degree and 90% humidity, or it's 100mph winds and 20 inches of rain

but I did run up to the store and order my main beaings, thrust washers, and rod bearings, so they'll be in Monday and I can begin assymbely, since the paint will get done tomorrow.

I thought that the lower intake was hard to prep for paint...huh, yeah, ok... nothing compared to the block, lol (and I'm a little OCD, so that makes things twice as hard, lol)



that article about the break in is rather intesting, BUT completely contradicts any and everything I've ever heard about engine break in... the cylinder walls and piston rings are not the only new parts breaking in... you're also breaking in the camshaft, all the rod and main bearings, the oil pump... there's a reason the standard for YEARS for breaking in an engine has been to run it in sequences or set RPMs for a certain amount of time... BUT, try it out if you finish before me, and see how it works out I'll be sticking to what's been proven in the past



The total machining bill was $371!

Hot Tank - $60
Rebore and hone - $100
R&R Rods - $95
Polish Crank - $35
Glassbead (main caps) - $20
Install freeze plugs - $15
Inspect clearance on mains and head surface - $25)

$350

plus $21 tax

$371.00

 

Technically the bearings aren't supposed to touch the crank, so technically there is no actual break-in period for them.

I have a Hastings ring instruction sheet somewhere that outlines a break-in method about halfway between the "old standard" of taking it easy and the "new" idea of loading the engine. I followed their instructions with a V8 and there was never any oil consumption. I did the same thing with my 22R-E and got the same results, although fuel economy was down for the first 1000mi or so until everything loosened up. I suspect that standard iron rings probably seat very quickly regardless of how they are used.

 

Well, after flipping through a Haynes manual I have, it actually does say to give the motor several WOT runs once the engine warms up for about a half hour IIRC, and then drive it easy for the next 500 miles, change the oil, then drive normal for the next 1000 or so, then change the oil again, and by then you can consider the engine fully broken in. To be honest, that sounds logical, because it combines both methods...





few more pics of progress today
















shot some primer and paint, and while waiting for it to dry, I went ahead and assymbled the pistons and rods









aaaaaaaaaaand, back to that block













once I felt the paint was dry enough to start messing with, I removed all the taped off portions:














and I started to bolt a few things on, and again... IT STARTED RAINING...














and because I see some of you are growing as impatient as I am, how's about a "Bored While It's Raining" mock-up





are you ready for this?




































oh I can't wait...

 

damn dude that looks sexy

 

Looks awesome super!!!!

 

Oh My God!!
That thing is a work of ART!
You should be proud! Very very nice work!

 

thank you!

thank you everyone!

I had to mock it up real quick, just to see how things are going to turn out in the end; I must say, I was pleased with the result

 

Why does the rain stop you? Just shut the door and keep going???

 

I don't know if you can tell from the pics, but my garage is a DISASTER, and you can't walk around in there... I live with my sister and her husband, and I have asked them SEVERAL times if they would please pick some of their crap up so I could get this done quick and get my truck out of their driveway, but I guess they're ignoring me... if I clean it, I'm throwing EVERYTHING away, and I've told them that...

 

wow dude, that looks awesome. Makes me want to find a motor on craigslist so I can take my time and build one up, you have been pretty patient waiting on everything considering you have to drive a non toyota in the meantime.

Keep it up, hope that thing gets done, I want video of the first run!!

 

Nice work.

 

Are you planning on mocking up the crank w/ bearings, rods, and pistons to check deck-height? Since the aftermarket pistons are de-stroked a bit, my deck-height was .018 above the piston. EB says stock is .000 to -.006. I had my machinist shave the deck .018" but forgot to include the timing chain cover, so that had to be done later as a separate part. Just fyi, if you're going to try and get it back to zero deck-height, bolt on the cover when you send it in.

 

hmmm, good point, thanks!

we'll see where the pistons sit at TDC tomorrow when I pick up the bearings

 

Holy crap. Lookin' real good. It'll be done by next weekend and you should be proud.

 

haha, oh no, it wont be done by next weekend


I still have quite a few things on the list...

If not tomorrow, by Tuesday I'm getting the injectors sent out for rebuild.

I still have yet to buy a replacement updraded alt, but money's getting tight now, and I might put the original back on in the begining, because that a rather simple swap later.

The BIGGEST thing that's going to hold me back right now, is the order I'm placing with LCE, which includes the clutch kit, all th block-off plate for the emmission crap, intake and exhaust manifold stud kits, and a bunch of other little odds and ends...

My BEST estimate is one more month, if you can believe that...


remember, that pic was ONLY A MOCK-UP, just to see how the new and painted parts are going to look...

 

OMG! Wow you must have a billion or so hours in just prep/paint, LOOKS GREAT!

Too bad my build is going to take forever now too so it will look at least half as good as yours... Nice Work!

Here is the link to the Engnbldr article where he talks about the "Quench" & some other cool little tips for building max power!

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=&fpart=1&vc=1

 

holy crap another month?!

 

another month???



BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

 

Lookin good dude!

 

well, I didn't get home untill freek'n 7:00PM lucky little brother had to run his sister's rented table cloths for her wedding an hour and a half accross down to return while they're off on their get-away in Tenessee

BUT, I stopped on my way home and picked up my mains, rods, and thrust washers



layed the block mains in






followed by the thrust washers and a good coating of moly lube






layed in the crank







cut up and layed in some plastigauge









torqued er down, and came up perfectly within spec! don't have a picture to compare beside the plastigaue measurements though







but anywho, I cleaned off all the plastigauge, put the other half of the mains in the caps, layed the other two thrust washers in place, added plenty more moly lube, and torqued her back to 76ft/lbs, in the correct pattern, in 3 steps (35, 55, 76)







and then... the battery on my camera died I hadn't charged it since the wedding, lol


so while it was charging, I threw all the pistons in, and now WE'VE GOT AN ASSEMBLED SHORT BLOCK!!!















and how's about some ameture photography