I know that any color of smoke coming out of a gas engine isn't a good thing and i was wondering what could cause black smoke like a diesel to come out of my exhaust its worse when the engine is cold and goes away almost entirely when it is warmed up.

 

Well, black smoke means you have a very rich mixture. Hard to say why with so little info you provided. Be more specific, give a little history of maintenance on the vehicle and so on so we can have a little more to go on.

 

As Zinek said, black smoke is typically a rich fuel mixture.
Is your truck EFI or carb'd?

 

If it's fuel injected it might have a leaky injector , I don't know anything about carbs so....
More info really helps tho .

 

My truck has had the oil changed every 3000 miles and is updated on maintenance currently it is a carb. I recently did a tune up in the summer because it was idling like crap ( could my carb be the sole cause) and it had a carb rebuild about 3-5 years ago and no adjustments to the carb have been made since. Would doing a fresh carb rebuild and a good cleaning solve my problems and could i possibly have a vacuum leak? Any i was also wondering if this could cause a "sticky" carb (it still accelerates a little sometimes after letting off the gas)

 

no rebuilding your carb wouldnt do anything you would still be running rich your carb needs to be adjusted and if you dont know how to do that i would recomed taking it to a shop it should take long to do. you wont need to rebuild your carb unless it has a problem like leaking or if something broke

 

I heard that you are supposed to turn the idle mixture screw until the idle changes then turn back till it changes back to normal is this true or is it a quick fix and isn't the float level sort of an indicator of fuel mixture?

 

And if i did rebuild the carb i would adjust it as well to be perfect but what causes the throttle to be sticky is it the actual cable or the carb and would it be a good idea to change the vacuum lines to make sure they are all orgininal

 

what type of choke does it have manual or electric? i know from workin on chevys the ones with the manual choke that the manual chokes would tend to stick and you would have to spary them with carb cleaner or WD40 to get them to unstick so running rich could be cause of you choke sticking i dont know much about yota carbs but that is my experince with carbs in general

 

its the manual choke so maybe this is why but i do think it is running rich because a 2wd is made for fuel economy and it sucks now

 

that sounds like a stuck choke to me

 

Sounds like a choke problem, but check also the fuel level in the float bowl and that the float does indeed shut off the gas flow when the bowl is full.

It's probably not the idle mixture adjustment screw that is causing you grief. You should figure out the main problem (choke, float, needle, etc.)first before you try to tune the carb. Even though it's only been a couple years since you had the carb attended to, it still might benefit from being taken apart, cleaned, and put back together with a fresh rebuild kit. I don't have a carbed 22R, but I'm told that rebuild kits (probably NAPA) are readily available and of decent quality. Search the forum, this came up within the last couple months.

Also, if you feel like throwing $300 to $400 at it (and you'll probably do that anyway if you take it somewhere like the dealership) look at the various Weber carb options available. Again, search, cause everybody has an opinion.

 

how do i find out if the throttle cable is sticking or if the choke is sticking

 

when it gets warm does it seem like hte choke is still engaged? what you could do is lube the throttle cable and if that doesnt fix it then check the choke

 

what would be the best procedure to lube the cable and to check the choke im not exactly familiar with carbs yet but im slowly getting there

 

In my opinion, the best procedure would be to pull the cable off the truck, hang the pedal end higher than the carb end and spray a cleaner into the pedal end while working the cable back-and forth. It'll take a while... then let the cable dry. Then squirt some cable lube (I've found that an alcohol based graphite lube works well though others may think differently) and work it through the cable... then let it dry.

As for checking the choke- the engine should be cold... then depress the gas pedal about 1/4 of the way down and the butterfly should be closed. Then start the engine and let it warm up, periodically depressing the gas pedal about 1/4 of the way down- the butterfly should open slightly everytime you depress the pedal and be fully opened before the engine is at normal temp.

 

is it possible for the choke to be only slightly sticking or not sticking sometimes because i have looked at the butterfly and when running is about 45 degrees is this the way it is supposed to be or should it be vertical and how do i remove the throttle cable?

 

45 deg choke angle should not be an issue, as long as the vacuum pull off opens the choke 100% when at wide open throttle

if you want to remove the throttle cable, all you have to do is pull the cable (from the carburetor end) and then rotate the cable end slightly so you can pass the cable through the little catch.

 

im thinking there is a vacuum leak somewhere i have no idea where but would that potentially cause a rich mixture i know that it can cause a rough idle and cause your truck to run like crap i think this is my problem and when i did my tune up it helped reduce the problems associated with vacuum leaks could this be part of the cause and where do i find the vacuum line material but ill give the throttle a good cleaning and see what that does because it seems like its sticking

 

where do can i get the vacuum lines to replace my old ones and how much do i need to pick up and i was reading it says that you are supposed to change the float as well when you rebuild your carb is this true or just something so you pay more