Hazen

I'm looking for a syspension lift system (WITH NO BLOCKS) for my IFS 88 4runner...

I want about a 4" lift on the thing when I'm done but I am only seeing a bunch of systems with blocks?

What would you all recommend is the best brand/system to go with?
I'm looking to keep it near $1000.

THANKS!
--
Robby

tc

What size tires do you want to run?

The BEST lift for these trucks is LEAVE THEM ALONE. 33x10.50 will fit with no lift.

Second best lift is a body lift/drivetrain lift.

Anything else, and you start to suffer issues of reliability with the balljoints, CV's, and steering.

'884Runner

Probably the best thing to do if you're looking at a 4" is buy one of the lifts you've been looking at, and then purchase some type of add-a-leaf system to lift the rear. But TC and a few others on here know the most about the independent suspension on these trucks, so I would probably do what he says if you're looking for longevity. Also, you can do BJ spacers for about 1.5-2" and then put a 1" or 2" body lift on it if it is manual transmission.

CJM

Ball joint spacers from 4crawler offroad for the front, and leaf packs for the rear made by numerous companies or if you can fab 63inch chevy springs fitted onto the rear.

But like TC said, you compromise things if you do lift, so its a trade off. I personally like a 2-3" suspension lift and a 1-2" body lift for these trucks. Just enough to clear and have articulation for 33's.

MonsterMaxx

I'm with you CJM. 2" of suspension lift (snubbers, t-bars and adjustments) combined with some nice soft 2-3" springs (mine are Rancho and work great.) Add a 2" body lift so it's easier to work on and some lift lips and that's about as good as it'll get w/ out getting silly.
Gets it up high enough w/o moving your whole CG way up.
I really like the Rancho 9000x shocks too.
I run 33" w/o issue like this and it looks 'right'. Not silly tall, or big gaps or too tight tires, etc.

Don't just 'crank' the stock t-bars, the truck will ride very harsh, won't articulate well and you run the risk of breaking t-bar sockets or the t-bar itself. A little thicker t-bar will give you a softer ride and more articulation because it's not as preloaded and therefore will have a greater range of movement (the amount the bar will twist.)

Add-a-leaf kits suck too for similar reasons.

I've read good things about the ball joint spacer method too, but did mine before this was out.


Next step is a bracket lift like you are talking about and some new springs. Personally I've no interest in these.

If I were going to go to the next level I'd choose one of the long travel kits.


You need to decide what you intend to do with it and how much you have to spend.

AxleIke

I run 33's with NO lift, without issue.

All about how wide your tires are and the BS on your rims.

No lift is the only way to go if you wheel hard. Lots of lift is cool on the street, and for mild wheeling.

Hazen

I'm only ever intending to run 33's. OME sells their syspension system in separtate pieces.

I've Heard SO MANY mixed reviews about BJ spacers... I've heard that you cant crank your t-bars if you add them. I'd throw a diff drop on if I did that.

If I get new t-bars can I also put BJ spacers? I heard you can't...

The rear is easy. Instead of overhauling with add a leafs I'm just going to get new 2-3" lift springs... It's the front that's throwing me... I really want 2 to 3" out of the front but that seems like it's pretty difficult...

Hazen

Ps- it's a manual and I don't plan on trying to climb up a tree in it... I'm not going to be thrashing it off-road that much...

elripster

Well, the net is a great place to find info, accurate or not. Let me dispell a few rumors here.

You don't need to crank t-bars with spacers. Can you? Yes, there are drawacks to that though and as long as you understand them you can make an educated decision as to whether or not you should do it.

T-bars have nothing to do with the presence of spacers. You can run whatever bar you want with them.

2-3" is difficult and unnecessary. Here's the deal, 1.5" spacers work great for 1-1.5" of lift. I run mine at 1" of lift and have no steering issues with my33's. I have ran more and less lift in the past. If you have a pavement oriented truck, go ahead and crank the torsion bars for another 1.5" of lift. Yes, you will stress the steering off road and wear CV's faster. That is NOT a good idea for a wheeling truck in most circumstances.

One must remember, on the trail, up travel is as important as down travel. Adjusting the spacer lift for more up travel(>1.5") means your wheels can't droop as far and you'll lift a wheel sooner. In the desert, you need up travel bad and steering doesn't see the stress it does on the trail so adjusting additional lift is not a bad idea.

Frank

Malczuk4runner

Sas And 37's!!! Woot!!!!

I run 35"s with 3" blocks in the back, 3" body lift 1" shakel lift and a SAS with 4" of lift overall 7" lift, but if you go SAS you MUST have crossover steering. My stock 85 steering components shattered when i hit a curb doing like 20KM/H. Crossover is essensial