My question is can you do both? I have a 92 4 runner sr5 with the v6 with a 4 inch trailmaster lift and I want more lift. I hate the look of body lifts and sas is out the question. So what are my options?

 

Welcome to YotaTech.

Please use the search bar before asking questions such as this since it has been asked dozens of times in the past. There's a sticky thread on lifts for the 89-95 rigs/section you just posted in.

To answer the question yes it can be done and has been done before - but the true question is how safe is this combo since the bracket lift already puts a lot of extra stress on parts? It's also dependent on what type of bracket lift you have since some replaced the upper arms and acted as semi-bj spacers on their own. But the answer is yes.

Good luck

 

I did use the search and could find anything with using the combo. So is there any other options?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-159199/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...r-pics-248616/

 

How is a SAS out of the question?

 

just seem to complicated

 

Weld spring hanger on, weld in shackle tubes is complicated? If you know how to weld and own a tape measure it's really not complicated at all.

 

well i thought there was alot more to it than that

 

And in other news... well, actually something that directly answers your initial question before being side-railed by the SAS crowd...

Using a bracket lift with BJ spacers would depend on which bracket lift was being installed.

A bracket lift which supplied the differential drop mounts, lower a-arm drop brackets and steering knuckle extensions should have no issue with adding BJ spacers.

Some bracket lifts supplied diff drops, lower a-arm drop brackets and custom upper a-arms, and require no modifications to the steering knuckle; I think a lot of Rancho kits did this but am not sure of others. Those kits supply a custom upper a-arm which incorporates the concept of a BJ spacer into the upper a-arm design. You DEFINITELY don't want to add BJ spacers to this type of kit.

 

Technically, you thought right...

You need to make the rear match the height, more welding, more parts. Moving the steering box forward so crossover steering doesn't bind...

Driveshaft work...

brake lines...

Welding in shock mounts, measuring for shocks...

Putting on 36"+ tires, gears/transfer case gears...

Tub firewall etc... lol

It would all add up quickly. Not really complicated per se but definitely more than welding in two tubes and a hanger when it really comes down to it and definitely more expensive and time consuming, even if you do the work yourself. U-bolts, knuckle rebuild kits, wheel spacers to match rear axles.... The list can and will go on and on.

 

Wow. An honest answer to the IFS vs. SAS costs.

 

Dang I bought a tape measure some steel stuff and my buddies an incredible welder, I'm gonna SAS tomorrow I will post some flexin pics by Monday

 

Thanks abe, I've never done an SAS but I've had a fair amount of Toys, some solid axle, some IFS, some Taco's, and an FJ60. Serious suspension changes stretch MUCH further than a couple welds....

 

That's probably why fab shops won't quote a total cost to convert IFS to SAS. There are too many variables involved.

And strictly speaking, if an IFS vehicle is built correctly, it will handle any technical trail better than SAS can... but that's a discussion best left to another thread.

 

Check this thread out and watch what member tc does with arb's, no lift, armor and 33's. It's amazing. I know it's personal choice but you don't need more lift. I think it's so cool that a dude with just lockers, no lift, ifs and 33's is going where the big SFA boys are going and coming back. It's definitely driving skill no doubt, but you don't always need a straight axle...and I'm a fan of SFA's, esp. on plow trucks.

 

Depends on how much you buy vs. build. Yeah, going about it with a trail-mart kit, an SAS is VERY expensive. For someone who knows how to shop and make use of used parts and fab... I'm very confident I could do it for under a grand axle cost included.

 

Does that include the price of the welder too? I don't think the OP has a welder.

I don't doubt your ability at all and I hope you didn't think I was taking a stab at you or something. Even for under $1000 that still seems really expensive compared to a $100 pair of ball joint spacers which is what the OP wants on top of the lift he already has.

When he said "Oh, I thought there was more to it than that." He was right, there is.

That's all, I didn't want to start an e-fight. I was just trying to broaden his perspective.

 

I talked (or PMed) to a member here and he had a hard time getting an alignment on his 2nd gen 4runner that had BJ spacers on. He said he has heard of some having problems and some having luck with the spacers. Any else hear of front end alighnment issues with the added BJ spacers?

 

Yes and no. When I did mine the alignment guy was able to get the truck within spec but he said he used every last bit of adjustment available. I also have heard of some having trouble with alignments but I can't cite any specific people that you could talk to. It just seems to happen to some trucks. There are also some wheel/tire combos that rub with the BJ spacers. (there is a thread on here somewhere about it) If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't. They work OK but the outcome and potential troubles aren't worth the effort. I'd have rather thrown my dough at armor/gears/lockers and stayed with the stock front and 31's. The IFS works well if you leave it alone. Anyway thats a whole other can of worms I don't want to open here as I will just crap up the OP's thread.

To the OP: What are you trying to accomplish?

 

Appreciate the input. I figured I would ask because BJ spacers apply to this thread. But are you talking your 3rd gen or a 2nd gen 4Runner? I hear 3rd gens are more accepting of front end mods than our 2nd's. What I may do is an aftermarket torsion bar for the front and possibly crank the bars a little.