95 4runner v6 auto 165k . Once I replaced the blown motor I've got some strange shift patterns that I need some help figuring out. The 1st to 2nd shift most of the time holds on until you hit about 3100 rpm. If you happen to be on a level road and using very little throttle it will shift around 2100 rpm otherwise it seems to race the engine before it shifts. I've tried adjusting the cable from the throttle body to the trans and there is no difference. Would this be a worn band,clutch packs, bad torque convertor? I'd like to have some kinda ideas before I give up have the thing rebuilt. Thanks

 

Why did your motor blow?

 

I bought that way. I had a low miles re-man in a rusted out 4runner ready to go into something and this one showed up. Nice body and good interior.

 

3100 rpm is not "racing the engine" for a 3vz. That's where it starts producing a useful amount of power. Only under the most gentle of acceleration conditions would you want it to shift at a lower rpm. I generally wind mine up (manual tranny) to 4000 before I upshift from 1-2 or 2-3, unless the speed limit intervenes first. 3000-4000 rpm is the sweet spot power band for that engine.

Still going strong after 193000 miles, so I don't think I'm hurting it any. Plus, I routinely get 19-20 mpg, so economy isn't suffering, either.

 

yes I agree 3100 rpm isn't really racing the engine and when accelerating into traffic is probably a good shift point but in town stop light to stop light and it doesn't want to shift until you let of the gas is what I'm wondering about. Also what should I see as when adjusting the cable? I've run it in and out 1 turn at a time with no noticeable change. I've changed the filter and flushed a couple gallons of fluid through it and added some Lucas to it and it may have got a little better but not much.

 

May be a stupid question but is the ECT on?

 

I think there's more to it than just the shift rod length. The auto tranny in a '95 4runner is electronically controlled by the ECU, so it sets the shift points based on its programming, taking into account rpm, load, speed, the weather, stock market, whatever... Probably ultimately under the control of Google or the NSA.

Here's some reading for you.

This article describes the electronic control of the AT.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/AT10.pdf

This is an index to all of the tech articles on the autoshop101 website. Lots more on the automatic transmission.
http://www.autoshop101.com/techartic...ticles.html#AT

 

Winning.

 

Unlike a lot of vehicles the cable is NOT for controlling shift points.
It's for controlling line pressure.

As Scuba asked, is the ECT on? That bumps up the shift points.

 

No the ECT button is off. Took awhile to figure out it was on the console and not in the instrument panel. With it on the light on the dash comes on. I guess that means it's working. I'll go test drive it and see if anything changes with it on. What should I be looking for? RJR- thanks for the link I've saved that in my favorites. Looks like lots of good info there.

 

For those who haven't taken the time to read the autoshop101 articles (which I recommend), what Marc is referring to is how hard it shifts, not when it shifts. It shifts harder at higher throttle opening, but the shift points are NOT affected by the throttle cable. That's all computerized.

So just set the throttle cable by the manual and then leave it alone.

 

Thanks for everbody's comments. Turns out the TPS needed a little bump. Sitting for 4 years doesn't do anything any good.