So i am doing the swap on my 1995 4runner. The next step i am at is the wiring.... This is where I get killed. So I know I can splice some wires and yada, yada to get the 4x4, cruise, clutch cancel and reverse to work. That's all if I kept my Auto ECU, could I buy a Manual ECU and instead of "tricking" the engine into being in neutral, I would actually have the right computer system... Any advice/pictures and/or threads would be a great help!

 

I haven't dug into what would be required for a 3.0 auto to manual wiring swap, but I have gone through the 3.4 auto to manual swap (plus a building a conversion harness to integrate the 3.4 wiring into my 91's wiring) and the best advice I could give would be to track down a M/T ECU. Yes, you can trick an A/T ECU to think its in neutral, but I've heard mixed opinions regarding how the A/T ECU manages ignition timing and fuel delivery when in neutral vs drive.

Check out dntsdad's 3.4 Swap 101 thread (in the 3.4 swap section), about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through that huge post is a really good write up on swapping a 3.4 auto to manual. It won't be exactly what you'll need, but it should be a good place to start.

 

Let me know if you need an ECM for your swap. I have one out of a 92 3.0 5 speed 4Runner that I will sell for $35 plus shipping.

 

Thanks for the offer but first I need to figure out if I need one or not!

 

No problem, just let me know if I can help out.

 

hey... do you have another writeup on the entire conversion? I want to the conversion (hopefully this summer). thanks

 

Nathanmyers, I don't have a full write up as I'm not yet done but even so i probably won't do a write up. For me there is enough information across the web, the rest is just common sense with a wrench. However, I found this documentation to be extremely helpful.. https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...Y5ZGFjZmNjZTFm

 

So to be clear, you are just adding a manual trans to your auto truck?
If so, I would just use the auto ecu.

Try it out and see how you like it. I have a manual truck that I did a 3.0 to 3.4 swap, used the auto ecu from the 3.4
. Everything runs and drives like it should.



It doesn't make sense that toyota would use two ignition curves, one for when the vehicle was in nuetral/park and one for when it was in an actual gear. What would be the point/benefit? So you could advance the timing more due to no load on the engine, but would toyota have a point in doing that? I don't see it making a significant difference if any at all.. It would be possible for them to modify the timing during cranking, but I don't see toyota using the park/neutral as an input for that, rather the starter signal wire, which then after engine gnition would then revert back to another timing map.....if they were to do that.
If you really want a manual ecu, I also have one I would basically give away. its from my 92.


I guess the only way to tell in the real world would be to take two similar trucks one with auto ecu, one with manual, same gears and same size tires, and dyno them. Results should be relatively close given that both trucks engines were in similar condition. If not im sure a little dist tuning could fix. As for other real world conditions, my truck has no problem banging the rev limiter, running down the highway at 70, then accelerating from 70 mph in 5th at a good pace, I don't think 190 hp could do much more.

 

I don't know for any certainty that Toyota does or doesn't alter the timing and fuel maps based on what gear the transmission is in, but with car companies always trying to clean up their emissions, it wouldn't surprise me that they did.

The only thing I have to go off was all the research and general consensus (as I understood it) on this board regarding an auto to manual swap. You are living proof that you can run an auto ECU with a manual trans, but my preference is to keep things as close to the OEM configuration as possible (M/T ECU with a manual trans). Further, coupled with the notion that I will have to deal with a SMOG ref, I don't want to run into any issues.

 

Do you have a check engine light? If not, what did you do to get rid of it?

 

I just finished this swap 2 days ago on my 1990 3vze 4runner. currently doing a post with detailed pictures info etc etc. you can use your A/T ecu I am using mine and have had to jump some wires, mainly the NSS and idiot lights. not really worth spending the money on a M/T ecu. Im hoping the pics turn out, pic size allowed on this site is tiny...

 

Honestly I don't know, but.most likely I do have a check engine light. Putting the obd port in was on my list of things to do and never got completed, and of course since I have not had a problem, I have not made it a priority to install.

 

The 3vze ECU retards the timing when going from park to drive so it doesnt jerk the car when drive engages.

Other then that From the scematic Ive gon through is just little things like the neutral/park switch and clutchswitch for stating.

Not sure how the 3vze ECU will react when recieving speed signals when its not in any gear setting or if it will allow Cruise control to work correctly.

I have plugged my MT ECU in to my auto and the only thing lost was auto trans control, Only had R, 1st and 3rd wether you use the ECU switch or not.

 

can anyone plz help??? i have just done the conversion, jumpered the 2 blk wires for the nss to enable it to crank. I'm having probs getting spark tho. I also did h/g's while i did the swap. The engine did run b4 i tore it all down. i have checked all my grounds & coupler connections & they all seem fine. switched the maf, checked the igniter, distributer, & coil too. all checked out ok. i could really use some help on this matter as i havent found any info relating to my prob. I've been online for days!!! Someone plzzzz help

 

Also...i used my retired 93 for the donor. I made sure my distributor is in time with the engine as well. I'm goin nuts here lol. anyone???

 

Okay the problem I encountered was the maf. It prevented the car from starting g. Do the required ohms testing for the pins. The correct number readings are in the Hanes book. Do you have spark? Did you check if there is fuel pressure being built up? If you try to start it and it cranks but won't start, it is not the wiring of the transmission, it's another problem.

 

Thanks for your reply. Nope i don't have any spark. I'm pretty sure both my maf's are good. both of them were from running vehicles, but...i will do the maf chk anyway. i kinda didn't really think it was my trans wiring. i just found it strange that after doing the swap that it won't fire. Ohhh & yes fuel pressure is definately there. its all i can smell when trying to start it. just no spark

 

Check your distributor coils, there is special ohms for the three coils. And the smell of fuel... I had that after I put the engine back together and it was a leak. Did you replace the crush washers on the fuel rods? You really shouldn't be able to smell the fuel.

 

I checked the distributor readings this morn, they were fine. checked out my maf & those readings were within tolerance too. I just checked both my ignition coils though (the spare & the one on my truck) & they aren't giving me the specified readings. Both came from running vehicles. I'm baffled that both weren't reading anything:s I'm only smelling fuel from the exhaust not the engine area. I'm in a small garage so the fumes come back in a bit lol.

 

just rechecked ignition coils & my secondary readings are within tolerance but my primary readings are showing 1-1.2 & are only supposed to be .36-.55. (according to haynes manual anyway) maybe my ohms meter doesnt have the proper settings on it? i dunno. ughhhh lol. i just can't see them both being bad after knowing they both ran my engines