Rinky, you got this done yet?

I got my cv axle out by placing the jack right under the arm that connects the lower ball joint to the A-arm. Once I did that I could flex the A-arm enough that the cv axle dropped out. Let me know if I can help you out.

 

I know when i did mine i tried compressing the suspension as much as possible (floor jack as far outside on the LCA as i could get) and i kept getting close but no cigar. Removed the lower ball joint (which needed replaced anyway and required a pitman arm puller rental from autozone because it was rusted on there) - stood on the lower control arm and it popped the CV right out. I didn't even have to remove the studs to do it this way. Throwing the new CV back in required somebody else to step on the LCA while i lined up the studes/holes.

 

Not got it done yet, still in about the same place I left it in the photos. Heading up north camping this weekend. First time one of these suckers breaks I'm going SAS! lol

 

Did you remove the wheel hub and the bolt and snap-ring at the end of the axle?

 

I removed the cover from the Hub and the bolt / washer inside. Didn't realize the entire Hub needed to come off! Now that's what I call a post - Why didn't you other guys ask that? lol.

Thank you - That will help ALOT. Maybe with said bolt / snap ring etc. removed I might have more luck.

 

I think everyone may have just assumed you took the retaining bolt and snapring out...

You may have just figured out your problem.

 

I am following this thread with great interest. I just noticed yesterday my boot is bad, When I did mine last time I disconnected the lower ball joint, and had to fight that for awhile to get it back on. So good luck. robert

 

yep, assumed that the hub/c-clip had been removed. IF you are following the tech write-up (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...toyotas-81059/) It is in step 1.

Hope that resolves your problems.

 

I always do mine with the wheels on the ground. No having to undo ball joints. I have a little bit of lift on the front from lifting with the torsion bars to try to jack up the tire until the lower A-arm is almost horizontal to the front cross member. It is tricky but it will wiggle out on the diff side. Confirming you already undid the zinc coated bolt under the manual hub/ADD hub right?

 

Is it easy to get the snap ring off of the axle with the tire on there?

 

The reason I figured I didn't need to remove the hubs, is that unlike most of ya'll my hubs seem to be somewhat different. When I removed the cover from the front of the hub, there was a nice bolt / washer in there, which also fit the threaded end of the new axle. So I figured that was what was holding the axel in there from that end. When I remove the Hub I'll take a few pics so anyone researching this with the same hubs as myself will have something to go by.

These are the type of Auto hubs I have:



As half of those allen screws wre stripped I had to dremel slots in them and use an old chisel like a screwdriver to twist them off, to get the cover off of the hub.

 

You should still have to take the entire hub off, i believe, to get at the snap-ring. I'd replace those bad boys with manual hubs when you get a chance, or at the least get new bolts that aren't stripped. I'm sure somebody here can figure out what size the auto hubs would need.

 

I've got a pair of WARN hubs i could sell you. They're used but definetly a fine replacement.

I just tore both my front hubs apart, regreased and tightened the axle nuts last night. I took pictures for my own reference library so heres one of the clip and washer they are all talking about:



You don't have to dissasemble the hub this far, lol. but theres the clip n washer

Heres how must you need to dissassemble:



*I know the star washer isn't tabbed down.

 

Another thing that will REALLY help in the future is to replace the circlip with a true snapring. The little holes in the end of a snapring make it MUCH easier to remove than the circlip that's on there...

 

with the hub off, you should be able to push the axle end out a bit more to clear the inner flange and then drop the inner end down. With the snap-ring and bolt removed, you will be able to pull it clear and maneuver it out.

 

yes.

I changed mine without even lifting the truck up. Dissmantled both hubs, undid my grade 8 hardware, slid the old out, put in the new. Easy.

 

I have never had to compress the suspnsion to get a shaft out. Removed the sway bar stuff before I got rid of the sway bars but that is about it. No need to take the tires off or anything. Just the hubs, bolt, clip, and the bolts on the diif side. Its about a 45 min job.

 

Well, did you finish? And what did you do to finally get them out?

 

Thanks, I just struggled for 20 min. in the hot sun with one of mine. I should be able to avoid such strife in the future with that nifty little swap.

Another thing I learned today is that the local Ace/True Value carries metric automotive studs. Found some to replace my hud studs for $2.37 each. They're a little to long on one end, but I'll grind 'em down to match. New nuts and lock washers for them were another $.35, so $2.72 for each replacement hub stud and hardware(minus the cone washers). Not bad.