Chuki

Its around 90+ degrees and when I start my 4Runner (3.0) it idles at around 1500RPM I'm not sure but to me for what the outside temp is thats kind of high, I would assume it to be up around around 1100-1200rpm.

What I'm trying to do is findout why my engine is running rich and before I start screwing with the AFM I want to find out if its some sort of sensor going bad or something.

I just tested my Cold Start Injector by disconnecting it from the intake and setting the injector portion into a bottle, and using test leads to apply 12v to it to open it, with 12v opens normall, without 12v closes normally with no leaking after closing. Cold start injector connector provided 12v for about 7 seconds when I turned key to run.

So that rules that out...

My problems are a code 25,26 which report a lean and rich condition but the engine definently runs rich, and I'm assuming the lean code is because the ECU is doing everything it can to correct the rich condition and at one point or another during driving whatever the culprit may be clears up for a second and throws the engine over into the lean side thus triggering a check engine light.

But any info for me?

Elton

replace the o2 sensor and check the adjustment on the TPS

Chuki

Thats my last step, I don't really think its my o2 sensor, if it is, it's on the verge of good and bad... Although the last few days I've probably put over 60 miles and now I can't get the check engine light to come on at all...

A buddy of mine thinks it could be Engine Coolant Temp sensor, reporting to the ECU that its to cold, but the engine is hot right now so I can't reach the sensor without burning myself.

TNRabbit

Coolant temp sensor would be my starting point as well.

Chuki

I got the codes again just now... code 25, 26

I also got code 24,32... Code 24 is air temp sensor, and 32 is VAFM, I'm assuming those 2 codes we're because when I was getting ready to leave earlier I forgot to hook up my AFM after I tested it... I'm gonna assume as well that the intake airtemp sensor is in that thing.

To add to the equation more, I was traveling the freeway approx 60mph 2500+/- RPM, going slightly uphill with moderate throttle, when I got to the top I let off the accelerator and that made the CEL come on.

Chuki

Well I tested the coolant temp sensor, everything there tested out just fine, While back behind the intake I noticed a vacumm line for my TVV wasn't hooked up which routes to the throttlebody, hooked that up, and took it for a test drive, power, torque and overall drivability improved 10 fold, before even doing 60 it'd struggle a little on the freeway. Not today cruised it just fine, on all the small hills kept right on truckin.

I also had thought I cured my 25, 26 code troubles... Well I decided to hit a decent grade hill just to see what kinda power, well maintain 60-65mph, using about 60-75% throttle to keep speed, once I start getting to the top I'd let off the gas and that triggered the light.

So the light seems to be triggered traveling approx 2500RPM+ with approx 3/4 throttle, for a period of time I would give it 2+ Minutes, once you let up on the throttle that triggers it.