HAVOC

(1995 ext. cab pickup)

OK. Here is where I'm at with my "project". Engine out, bed off, fuel tank out, dashboard and heater box are out. I started to cleanup/remove some of the rust on the frame. It's just surface rust but it's a tough job to remove it, especially where the welds are. I don't think it would be that much harder to remove the cab, transmission/transfer case and the front/rear suspensions.

How much can I look to spend on having it sandblasted? Will the person doing it prime it afterwards or is that extra? I could do the priming myself but I do not want it in bare metal for too long.

Thanks for any input.

gte718p

It was about $400 when I had my corvette done. Paint or powdercoat is generally extra. If you have a fairly large compressor, or a small compressor and alot of patience you can do it yourself. Its makes a mess, but its easy to do.
The other option is to use something like POR15. You paint it on over surface rust. If applied correctly it is insanely tough stuff. It will protect your frame from just about everything. Just don't get it on your hands. It litterally took 3 weeks to get it all off.

CJM

If you have a good drill or grinder you can busy discs that will take off stuff really well. I took off paint that had to be 35 years old and like 20 coats on some outdoor furniture with my grinder and a flapper disc.

Much cheaper than media blasting.

As for por15, I sprayed almost all of my frame with rustoleum rust converter (surface rust only). It not only stuck to some dirt, it has held up really well for months now, no rust period has come back.

InternetRoadkill

Mine ran about $250.

HAVOC

I'm using the green "Roloc" sanding discs, I think 60 grit. They remove rust very well, but I'm thinking "how long will it take to do the entire frame?".

I'm thinking about having the frame sandblasted, then using the products from Por15 to protect it. I need to sit down and see what my options are, how much I want to spend on this part of the project and the time it will take. I'll get sandblasting prices on Monday.

CJM

I used norton brand discs in my 10amp grinder.. A frame aint that big and you dont have to go downt o bare metal imho. 40 dollars in paint and 20 in discs may be cheaper than the blasting.

olharleyman

We just send a frame for a 1963 IMPALA out to be acid dipped and it ran 450 bucks.

I one thing that is better about the dip compaired to sandblasting is it get every thing inside the frame and outside plus all the greese and no sand left on the frame or in the cornors makes powercoating a lot cheaper.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I did one about 4 years ago for a customer ..
"wet blasting " ran about $400.00

then I POR-15'd inside and out ..





still looks as good as the day I did it ..



.

Cyberman

Did mine myself. Picked up a 40# pressurized blaster from Harbor Freight ($100), and got Black Diamond 40/80 abrasive from Tractor Supply ($7 for 50# bag). Already had the compressor. I coated the frame in Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and top coated with Eastwood Chassis Black ($100 for more than enough). The only other cost was time.

HAVOC

I think I'll go the Por15 route. About how much will I need to do this frame? Say about 2 or 3 coats. Then I'll top it with chassis coat.

Cyberman

A quart should last 2 coats, not sure how thick it is. Might want to pick up a second just in case. I had a quart of Rust Encapsulator (brushed on), and an aerosol to get to the hard places. I don't think POR15 comes in aerosol though.

gte718p

If you go the POR15 route you don't need to sandblast at all. It actually adheres better to slightly rusty surfaces. POR15 can be sprayed you just thin it. However it is very, very, very nasty stuff. You really need a very good resporator and a booth if you are going to spray it. Water is the catalyst in the chemical reaction. If you or anyone else for that matter breaths it in it will litterally paint and harden the inside of your lungs. Thats a bad thing.

I did two coats on the corvette. The frame gets a fair amount of abuse from speed bumps and its still holding up. Unless your building a show truck don't waste your time on the top coat. The stock black looks really good.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

the whole trick on a "boxed" frame .... is to do the inside .

get yourself a shutz gun .. with a flexable wand , (mine was $100.00) and start with the inside .

the visable part is always "easy" .. It's what ya dont see that will bite you in the rump .

.

HAVOC

Update...
I pulled some more parts off the truck (just some small stuff). I also cleaned/organized around the truck so that I know what I had and what needs to be replaced.
My current DD has 31X10.50 15 BFG's and 4:10 gearing (not good). A truck at my friends house (where my project is) needs a rear diff with 4:10's. My project truck has 4:56's, which I need in my DD. I'm thinking about selling the rear axle from my DD and swapping the front and rear diffs from the project into my DD.
I want to SAS the project truck so I wont miss the IFS diff. Then when I'm ready to put the rear diff in I could pull it out of the DD.
Good/bad idea? Anybody do this before? I figure if I'm going to sandblast and Por15 the frame might as well do the SAS now.
Can I get the parts to hang the front springs seperately (while I save money for the rest of the kit)? What about the plates that weld to the motor mount area?
Thanks again...