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another crankshaft pulley bolt thread

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Old 08-13-2010, 05:49 PM
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another crankshaft pulley bolt thread

I've got a '90 5spd 3.0 v6. Im trying to replace the timing belt but I am stuck at the crankshaft bolt. I've searched but only found members giving vague answers. What I would like to know, since the crankshaft can only be turned clockwise, doesn't the crankshaft pulley turn counterclockwise when trying to get it loose? Won't this mess up the crank or something internal? Can someone explain to me in detail the method of leaving it in 5th gear and breaking it loose with a breaker bar? I've tried this method and it does not work. I tried 3rd and 5th and the crank pulley still turns when I try to loosen it. Can someone please also explain to me in detail the method of breaking it loose by the starter method? I believe it goes something like bracing the breaker bar against the frame, unplug the coil pack, and tapping the starter?? Thanks.
Old 08-13-2010, 08:08 PM
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I made one of the camshaft removal tools in this thread. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/ Used it for both the camshafts and the crank bolt. When I used it for the crank I replaced the large bolts and used 2 of the pulley bolts and anchored the end of the tool under the frame on the drivers side. It still took a real long breaker bar to get the needed leverage, that bolt was tight.
Old 08-13-2010, 08:25 PM
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With a 24 inch breaker bar, get a socket (impact socket recommended due to torque) snugged on the crank bolt, and align the breaker bar just under the passenger side frame rail. Use zip ties or bailing wire to snug it up against the bottom. You want it positioned so that the motor, when turning clockwise (as you stand facing the engine in front of the truck), will "snag" the breaker bar against the bottom of the passenger side frame rail.

Once it's all snug and ready, make sure you're in neutral.

Disconnect the coil from the distributor so you don't get ignition in the cylinders.

Stand clear and make sure everyone else.

Crank the engine once and listen for the violent sound of the bolt breaking loose.

If this scares you or doesn't make sense, maybe you shouldn't do it yourself (I had hesitation my first time but have done it 3 times this year now ).

GL!
Old 08-13-2010, 08:32 PM
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... and my favorite tool can be seen here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/

There are lots of very "clever" methods to get the bolt off (one recommended pushing nylon rope into the #1 cylinder to stabilize the crank!), and I'm sure that each one has worked for the post-er. But remember that you are going to have to get the bolt back on (181 ft lbs, no less), and very few of the "tool-less" methods will help there. So the time it takes to make a tool (and there are lots of those on this forum) will be paid back by the end of the day.
Old 08-14-2010, 04:24 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Scope103, good suggestion there about putting it back on. I was sitting on that thought all day. I may just go ahead and make that tool Andy A made. Philbert, how would I go about putting the bolt back on? I have some ideas but I don't think it can hold that 180 ft lbs.
Old 08-14-2010, 05:05 PM
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To put it on, get a torque wrench that supports that amount of weight. Put it in gear, put the eBrake on, chock the wheels with some blocks of wood, and have a buddy stand on the brakes while you torque the bolts clockwise.

Sometimes, if you're not strong/big enough, propr yourself against the driver side front tire and use your foot to push the torque wrench clockwise till it clicks.
Old 08-14-2010, 10:33 PM
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Does it matter which gear it's in?
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