Another 22r surging issue
#21
Well now its completely dead. Wont start at all. I ended up draining the tank and flushing the fuel lines to attempt to get rid of the Sea Foam I dumped in the tank. Put fresh gas in and it still wont start. I went through all the tests and everything checks and the only code that showed up on the ODB was 13. It seemed like it wasnt getting spark so I checked the coil. It checked out ok but when I pull the coil wire and set it next to a ground and crank it, I get a redish orange spark from it. Seems like I remember you want it to be blue. Think that might be it?
#22
Well now its completely dead. Wont start at all. I ended up draining the tank and flushing the fuel lines to attempt to get rid of the Sea Foam I dumped in the tank. Put fresh gas in and it still wont start. I went through all the tests and everything checks and the only code that showed up on the ODB was 13. It seemed like it wasnt getting spark so I checked the coil. It checked out ok but when I pull the coil wire and set it next to a ground and crank it, I get a redish orange spark from it. Seems like I remember you want it to be blue. Think that might be it?
#24
Nope..Got a new coil for it yestrday and its still toast. Pulled a plug and then turned it over. The plug sparked. The plugs are wet to so its getting fuel. Its throwing codes 14, 24, and 31 now. Im trying to research what those mean right now.
#25
14- no ignition signal to ecu for 4 consecutive ignition events:
open or short in wiring from ignitor to ecu, faulty ignitor, faulty ecu
24- intake air temperature sensor:
open or short in intake air temp sensor circuit, faulty afm, faulty ecu
31- vafm signal to ecu:
open or short in vafm circuit to ecu, faulty afm, faulty ecu
first thing I would do is make sure all the connectors around the ignitor and air-flow meter are clean and connected well.
if still no problem located, testing the ignitor and vafm operation should be done.
after that: all three problems (2 components) have a common wiring harness up the fender and across the firewall, then down onto the engine (between the intake and engine) so I suggest checking those wires/harness for any potential pinches or pressure that may cause them to short together, any damage from heat, etc. ... I wonder if that was the cause of your smoke?
given the smoke and the possiblility of the harness being compromised, maybe you should start there first?
open or short in wiring from ignitor to ecu, faulty ignitor, faulty ecu
24- intake air temperature sensor:
open or short in intake air temp sensor circuit, faulty afm, faulty ecu
31- vafm signal to ecu:
open or short in vafm circuit to ecu, faulty afm, faulty ecu
first thing I would do is make sure all the connectors around the ignitor and air-flow meter are clean and connected well.
if still no problem located, testing the ignitor and vafm operation should be done.
after that: all three problems (2 components) have a common wiring harness up the fender and across the firewall, then down onto the engine (between the intake and engine) so I suggest checking those wires/harness for any potential pinches or pressure that may cause them to short together, any damage from heat, etc. ... I wonder if that was the cause of your smoke?
given the smoke and the possiblility of the harness being compromised, maybe you should start there first?
#26
That sounds like a pretty solid start abecedarian, thanks. Where are the codes listed? Ive done some searching but hadnt come up with a complete list. I did clear the codes and attempted to start it again to no avail. I rechecked for codes and it came up clean as well. All the connectors look good but the harness could very well be the issue since it had to be pulled and put back in when I replaced the head.
#27
http://troublecodes.net/Toyota/ is a decent place to begin searching trouble codes, but it is a combination of different years and different engines and options so it is not absolutely correct for everyone.
The factory service manual for your year/model truck is the absolute authority on codes, but finding one for your particular year would require some nice fellow to post one up for download or a trip to ebay or the dealer to buy one. In a pinch Chilton's manuals have pretty detailed code listings broken down by year, and where applicable, by engine even. I stay away from Haynes manuals unless absolutely necessary, but sometimes they do have something the Chilton's don't, and can be more understandable than the FSM.
The factory service manual for your year/model truck is the absolute authority on codes, but finding one for your particular year would require some nice fellow to post one up for download or a trip to ebay or the dealer to buy one. In a pinch Chilton's manuals have pretty detailed code listings broken down by year, and where applicable, by engine even. I stay away from Haynes manuals unless absolutely necessary, but sometimes they do have something the Chilton's don't, and can be more understandable than the FSM.
#28
I believe those codes were present from messin with the electrical connections and testing things. I have not been able to duplicate them. Whats really puzzling me right now is I have fuel, ignition, and air and this damn thing will not start. I just checked the timing and its correct as well..Im at a loss....it ran after I put it together but wont start now. Very frustrating. I do not understand how anything related to the ecm would effect it starting or not if everything mechanical is working.
#30
My friends '91 pickup overheated for lack of coolant and sprayed the little coolant it had all over the engine compartment. He let it cool and added coolant but when he started it it would idle at 2000rpm and surge down to 1000. I figured out it was the Mass Airflow Sensor causing all the trouble. All I did was disconnect it and start it (it of course died) and then reconnected it and it ran fine after that (besides the fact that it idles at like 900rpm). I don't know if your rig has this system but I would try that once you get it started.
Also... why is it not starting? is it trying to turn?
Also... why is it not starting? is it trying to turn?
Last edited by smartboyalex; Dec 8, 2008 at 06:18 PM.
#33
All ignition system parts are new. New cap/rotor, wires, and plugs. Plugs spark when I take them out and they are also wet. Ive removed the plugs and sprayed starting fluid directly into the cylinders and then put the plugs back in. No worky...Sprayed starting fluid into intake...no worky.
I back flushed the fuel rail and made sure the return line was not plugged. Im baffled.
I back flushed the fuel rail and made sure the return line was not plugged. Im baffled.
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84-85 Trucks & 4Runners
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