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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Alternator Upgrade

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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 09:27 AM
  #21  
scuba's Avatar
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From: Austin, Texas
Originally Posted by abecedarian
he said "winch" not "wench"
Well whatever..Notice I snipped that part from my post...?




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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #22  
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From: Shakopee, MN
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
That's what I did. Worked great.
how much did it cost for the parts to convert?

also the stock alt is only 60 amp. do they only have the one alt model. because my truck has power everything and rear heat and all that good stuff you think logically toyota would put a bigger alt in my truck than say a base model that has power nothing.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 02:29 PM
  #23  
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Yes, but "power everything" does not involve a lot of electrical power. Power steering is powered by the engine and power steering pump. Power brakes are powered by the engine vacuum. Rear heat is from engine coolant and only the blower for the rear heater takes a few amps of electrical power. Power windows use a little power but only rarely.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:03 PM
  #24  
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From: Shakopee, MN
Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Yes, but "power everything" does not involve a lot of electrical power. Power steering is powered by the engine and power steering pump. Power brakes are powered by the engine vacuum. Rear heat is from engine coolant and only the blower for the rear heater takes a few amps of electrical power. Power windows use a little power but only rarely.
i guess i should have said power windows i know all the other stuff is mechanical. so its only a 60 amp then.

also my truck runs at 13 volts is this normal for these alts i know all my other trucks have been over 14V

Last edited by the_ocho; Dec 28, 2008 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:06 PM
  #25  
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From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
Originally Posted by the_ocho
how much did it cost for the parts to convert?
Like $50-60. It is a new stator and you have to do all the work putting it in.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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From: Shakopee, MN
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
Like $50-60. It is a new stator and you have to do all the work putting it in.
yea work is no problem for me. i guess ill be giving them a call and picking up another alt to put it in thanks.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 03:22 PM
  #27  
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From: Sedro-Woolley, WA
I think that somebody all ready posted the link with the "how too" and that's the one I used, pretty simple. Hardest part is getting the pulley off to seperate the rotor from the case. Just have a pulley puller handy.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 05:59 PM
  #28  
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From: Tucson, AZ USA Age:60
Important thing to remember when y'all are comparing output amps, is if they are specifying hot amps or cold amps.
Usually a pretty significant difference between the two.
If you're looking at one and it's spec is, say, 60 amps, that may actually be putting out more power than one rated, say, at 90 amps, if the 60 amp was spec'd as hot amps and the 90 amp one is spec'd as cold amps.
Very important, always, to find out what they are spec'ing to make like comparisons.


Fred
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #29  
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is it possible to test the alt with a volt meter, or do you really need to take it in to a shop for a bench test?

I'd like to do the stock rebuild, but wanted to test it first to see what kind of power I'm getting. Then test again to see the dif.

Definitely tired of all the lights dimming when I come to a stop.
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 07:53 PM
  #30  
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You would need to do a load test with a high power resistor bank, not something the average person would have at home. You could install an ammeter shunt in the power line from the alternator and see what it is putting out under various conditions. However, you may not see the full output of the alternator because it'll only put out the current needed by the vehicle's electrical system load.
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