Alternator/Electrical problem....
#1
Alternator/Electrical problem....
Ok, first off let me tell you about my girlfriends '89 truck (has owned it for 2 years) that needs help...its a 22re Xtra Cab 4WD 5spd... I'll try to describe as much as possible & hopefully when this is all done, help out anyone in the future who's had similar problems...LONG STORY, SORRY
......
OK here goes the story...She tried to drive to a friends house & her Toy started to lose power, lights dimmed, stereo shut off and on, slowly losing power...finally it died. She called me up, told me the what happened, Alternator first came to mind...Picked one up from Kragen, replaced on the side of the freeway, jumped started and drove home fine
.
3 days later, she tried to drive to work (1/2 hour away) same problem as before , lucky she was able to turn it around and get it home. Wouldn't even jump start, just ticking sounds from the starter when I tried to turn it over. I took out the battery in my 4Runner, put it in her truck, not ticking sounds, It started up fine, didn't even need a jump start, no idiot lights, and drove it around for a little bit. Ran good. I thought maybe she needed a new battery.
Also, When I put my battery in, I realized that there was a HUGE monster cable for a sub that was still connected to the positive terminal (the cable ran into the store away compartment under the rear seats, grounding out I believe) and the terminal was all corroded. Cleaned the terminals and got rid on the monster cable before I put in my battery. The guy who sold the Toy to her took out the subs and cd-player. I bought and installed a new cd-player and speakers, soldering and shrink wrapping all the wires and made sure all wires and cables that were in the cab, had clean connections and were not grounding out. Forgot about that monster cable when i did the stereo
. I did that at Christmas...It's not the stereo wires cuz I've checked all the wires in the cab again... all good, so I think I finally got rid of the all the bad wires....
Meanwhile, Her parents said she could have the battery in their minivan that was "good". Minivan, suspension problems. Took out mine, put her parents one in, needed a jump start, let it charged for about 1/2 hour. Started to drive it, half-way down the block, E-brake and Battery light came on, lights were dimming, turned around and the Toy died as a got back to her house.
.
I've looked on the forums for what could be the problem.... Cuz those Idiot lights never came on with my battery.... and suggestions, should I get a new alternator first then get her a new battery, or get her a new battery and pray that's all it needs... Just trying to save her money, don't wanna take it to the dealership to fix it...
......OK here goes the story...She tried to drive to a friends house & her Toy started to lose power, lights dimmed, stereo shut off and on, slowly losing power...finally it died. She called me up, told me the what happened, Alternator first came to mind...Picked one up from Kragen, replaced on the side of the freeway, jumped started and drove home fine
.3 days later, she tried to drive to work (1/2 hour away) same problem as before , lucky she was able to turn it around and get it home. Wouldn't even jump start, just ticking sounds from the starter when I tried to turn it over. I took out the battery in my 4Runner, put it in her truck, not ticking sounds, It started up fine, didn't even need a jump start, no idiot lights, and drove it around for a little bit. Ran good. I thought maybe she needed a new battery.
Also, When I put my battery in, I realized that there was a HUGE monster cable for a sub that was still connected to the positive terminal (the cable ran into the store away compartment under the rear seats, grounding out I believe) and the terminal was all corroded. Cleaned the terminals and got rid on the monster cable before I put in my battery. The guy who sold the Toy to her took out the subs and cd-player. I bought and installed a new cd-player and speakers, soldering and shrink wrapping all the wires and made sure all wires and cables that were in the cab, had clean connections and were not grounding out. Forgot about that monster cable when i did the stereo
. I did that at Christmas...It's not the stereo wires cuz I've checked all the wires in the cab again... all good, so I think I finally got rid of the all the bad wires.... Meanwhile, Her parents said she could have the battery in their minivan that was "good". Minivan, suspension problems. Took out mine, put her parents one in, needed a jump start, let it charged for about 1/2 hour. Started to drive it, half-way down the block, E-brake and Battery light came on, lights were dimming, turned around and the Toy died as a got back to her house.
. I've looked on the forums for what could be the problem.... Cuz those Idiot lights never came on with my battery.... and suggestions, should I get a new alternator first then get her a new battery, or get her a new battery and pray that's all it needs... Just trying to save her money, don't wanna take it to the dealership to fix it...
#2
When the e-brake and battery lights come on at the same time, that means the alternater is not charging the battery. Most shops that only replace electrical parts (battery, starter, alternater, etc.) will do a check for free. See if you can get it down to one of these shops. It could be the "good" battery out of the van was not. And sometimes, new or rebuilt alternaters turn out to be no good. Electrical junk always frustrates me. I say bring it in for a free check. Once you find out for sure what the problem is, you can always leave and fix it yourself. If you feel bad about that, give the person at the shop a tip for the diagnostic.
#3
Originally Posted by Bobakazi
When the e-brake and battery lights come on at the same time, that means the alternater is not charging the battery. Most shops that only replace electrical parts (battery, starter, alternater, etc.) will do a check for free. See if you can get it down to one of these shops. It could be the "good" battery out of the van was not. And sometimes, new or rebuilt alternaters turn out to be no good. Electrical junk always frustrates me. I say bring it in for a free check. Once you find out for sure what the problem is, you can always leave and fix it yourself. If you feel bad about that, give the person at the shop a tip for the diagnostic.
#4
I finally learned years ago, if the alternator craps out, take it AND the battery and get them tested. As goes one, so goes the other. No point in ruining one by having a bad other in there.
A bad starter can cause extra strain on the battery meaning the alternator would have to work harder to get the battery charged again. Whole cascade effect possible there.
Search for Roger Browns writeup on replacing the starter contacts. That could be the starter problem.
Have you tried push starting the truck just to see how it runs now with the new alt. and battery combo?
A bad starter can cause extra strain on the battery meaning the alternator would have to work harder to get the battery charged again. Whole cascade effect possible there.
Search for Roger Browns writeup on replacing the starter contacts. That could be the starter problem.
Have you tried push starting the truck just to see how it runs now with the new alt. and battery combo?
#5
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit 451
I finally learned years ago, if the alternator craps out, take it AND the battery and get them tested. As goes one, so goes the other. No point in ruining one by having a bad other in there.
A bad starter can cause extra strain on the battery meaning the alternator would have to work harder to get the battery charged again. Whole cascade effect possible there.
Search for Roger Browns writeup on replacing the starter contacts. That could be the starter problem.
Have you tried push starting the truck just to see how it runs now with the new alt. and battery combo?
A bad starter can cause extra strain on the battery meaning the alternator would have to work harder to get the battery charged again. Whole cascade effect possible there.
Search for Roger Browns writeup on replacing the starter contacts. That could be the starter problem.
Have you tried push starting the truck just to see how it runs now with the new alt. and battery combo?
#6
A 22re will push start in a matter of a few feet. Push, dump the clutch, voila! I've let mine roll down the driveway just a little and done it easily. You can even do it backwards with the tranny in reverse.
Just make sure once you get it started that you get it back to a good starting spot again before you shut it off ;>)
Just make sure once you get it started that you get it back to a good starting spot again before you shut it off ;>)
#7
Alternators will not charge a battery. If you have a dead battery you need to charge it with a battery charger. If you don't the alternator will run wide open & burn out very quickly. Anywhare from days to months depending on the quality if the alternator. Another area to look at is the clamps. Are they still tight. if they are a little loose they will act up.
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#8
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit 451
A 22re will push start in a matter of a few feet. Push, dump the clutch, voila! I've let mine roll down the driveway just a little and done it easily. You can even do it backwards with the tranny in reverse.
Just make sure once you get it started that you get it back to a good starting spot again before you shut it off ;>)
Just make sure once you get it started that you get it back to a good starting spot again before you shut it off ;>)
#9
Originally Posted by celica
Alternators will not charge a battery. If you have a dead battery you need to charge it with a battery charger. If you don't the alternator will run wide open & burn out very quickly. Anywhare from days to months depending on the quality if the alternator. Another area to look at is the clamps. Are they still tight. if they are a little loose they will act up.
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