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I'm waiting on an order which includes some copper crush washers to connect the fuel line from the passenger side rail to the manifold on my 3vze. Part number is 90430-08005. It's the last damn thing I need to start her up and I'm sitting here waiting for the mail. I would use the old ones, but I did a classic and dropped one of them down the engine bay when I was doing the re-assembly.
Anyone have luck sourcing these elsewhere that I might be able to pick up in person? I expect auto-shops or hardware stores might have some generics.
Time, really. I wanna get the car on the road. Drove the 1hr to the dealership this weekend and they didn't have the correct sizes in stock. I already have the OEM washers in the mail, but I'm looking for a passable alternative that I can use until those arrive.
It's a copper washer after all, not a rocket engine. I cant imagine it being that hard to find a passable substitute.
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by wallytoo
why use generic? the oem version available from toyota is cheap, and it works. go to your closest toyota dealer and buy some.
crush washers are one-time use only. they usually leak if re-used (i'd put it at better than 80%).
when you say usually leak, do you mean fuel or air? i ask because i've reused them several times over the course of repairs over the past many years.... and there is no fuel leaking. however, i'm beginning to wonder of air leakage since i've had a CEL code (25 i think) for quite some time and have never been able to track it down. and, i have thoroughly done everything else besides blame those washers
btw, apologies for the hijack. i will say, though, good luck finding copper in the specific ID of the oem washers. OD not so much of a deal, but the ID must be precise. can't have too much variance on thickness, either. in terms of something temporary, that is
fuel. they are used in a pressurized fuel system. how would air enter? and if air could enter, how could fuel not leak?
ymmv. the large crush washer at the damper on the 22re usually leaks, while the smaller one sometimes does not leak if reused. as scope will say, buy a few extras, they’re cheap, and when you use some, order some more right away. then you’ll always have some on hand.
wallytoo: np, good tip of the ID/OD, that's helpful to know.
Paul: I was just coming here to post a similar link I measured the remaining washer, and it comes our to ID 8mm OD 12mm Thickness is 1mm. These kits fit the bill and come out far cheaper than ordering them piecemeal. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll report back and let you know know how these work for me. If I have nay issues, I have the stock ones to compare. Good to have some alternative options for parts.
The OEM crush washers are aluminum, not copper. Copper is much harder, so is used on much higher pressure systems, like brake lines.
Just like re-using an old crush washer, a copper washer might work. Until it doesn't. Then you'll have a nice warm place to stand while wondering why you just didn't wait a day for the correct part.
The OEM crush washers are aluminum, not copper. Copper is much harder, so is used on much higher pressure systems, like brake lines.
Just like re-using an old crush washer, a copper washer might work. Until it doesn't. Then you'll have a nice warm place to stand while wondering why you just didn't wait a day for the correct part.
Well, buy an aluminum crush washer assortment then. They're just annealed metal rings of specific sizes. not nuclear reactor parts.
I've had both copper and aluminum crush washer assortments on my parts shelf for more than 30 years. My assortments are old enough that they were U.S. made.
I'm usually firmly in the OEM camp, but occasionally, generic is undistinguishable from what the factory supplied.
Last edited by millball; Oct 28, 2020 at 12:47 PM.
While tempted, I haven't yet ordered a generic set of aluminum washers. It's worth remembering that, because of how the crush washers mount into a recess, both the inside and outside dimensions matter. I think the sets we're talking include washers with the correct dimensions, but I'd like to hear if anyone ever compared the sets washers with the OEM ones.
This comes down to the oriface size from a fuild dynamics view point. To thick or thin offsets the hole and causes a restriction. Similar the inner diameter causes a restriction.
Your local auto parts chain has crush washers, if their selection doesn't match what you need the local fastenal should have a larger assortment. Also the parts stores in a big city gets same day delivery in a lot of cases for things they have to order in from the warehouse. In fact the Oriely distributiin center in Denver has a customer pickup counter in case you don't want to wait a few hours for the route truck..
I've never found crush washers at O'Reilly's or Autozone. A search for "crush washers" on the O'Reilly's website turns up hundreds of "drain plug washer"s. Which would probably be okay if they were aluminum (some are) and the correct size (I've never seen one).
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Originally Posted by wallytoo
fuel. they are used in a pressurized fuel system. how would air enter? and if air could enter, how could fuel not leak?
ymmv. the large crush washer at the damper on the 22re usually leaks, while the smaller one sometimes does not leak if reused. as scope will say, buy a few extras, they’re cheap, and when you use some, order some more right away. then you’ll always have some on hand.
valid question...and, elementary, of course. being under pressure fuel would leak if air could, as well. but, perhaps the leaking fuel is not noticeable. otoh, i suppose there'd be obvious aroma. or fire. always fun
So, I installed the copper washers on the cold start injector line, and ran it for a 100 miles or so with no issues. Just got my OEM washers and pulled my manifold for some further fixes and upon inspecting the washers after removing them, it looked like they deformed and sealed as expected.
I can't make any claims for extended use, but these will definitely do in a pinch if you dont want to shell out the 3 bucks for an OEM washer when you need to pull the manifold multiple times. Way better than reusing crushed washers as the custom seems to be.
The aluminum coating probably provides an additional softer gasket to improve the seals (and maybe protects against corrosion?) so I'm not taking any chances and still plan to use the OEM for the final install.
so I need these crush washers. got a major leak coming from under intake plenum... I'm guessing injectors, 92 pickup with 230,xxx miles I'm sure they are original. but I'm looking up parts like injectors and plenum gasket and crush washers but the washers are all different numbers? what does this mean? are they all different sizes? or can I just buy 6 of the same one? idk seems so confusing. thanks for your time. check out the photo. ????
The crush washers aren't "all" different sizes, but there are a few different sizes, so everywhere you see a new number those are a new size.
Do you know where your leak is? You'd be sad if you were leaking around an injector and all you replaced were the crush washers. I don't know much about the 22re, but on the 3VZE you can remove the plenum (don't disconnect the fuel line from the CSI!), replace the fuel return line that went with the plenum with a piece of 6mm/ 1/4" tube, and pressurize the system by jumpering FP. Even if you're not leaking around the injectors, at the age of your rig you should consider refreshing all the seals with a kit like this: https://theinjectorshop.com/products...truck-4-runner or https://www.ebay.com/itm/262500477411
Be careful; gasoline leaking under pressure can vaporize quickly, and really is a fire danger.
Oct 26, 2020 | 01:35 PM
I measured the remaining washer, and it comes our to ID 8mm OD 12mm Thickness is 1mm. These kits fit the bill and come out far cheaper than ordering them piecemeal.
Different p/n?
