On a 1989 4runner v6 is the a/c line going from the compressor to the condenser called a suction
Or discharge line ? It's the one leaking on my truck and autozone has them just need to know which one. Thanks.

 

Discharge. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3systemco.pdf

Do you have all the equipment to do the refrigerant recovery, the air evacuation, and the recharge? Is there any point to replacing the pressure lines yourself if you don't have the equipment?

 

The discharge line is also called the high-side, the suction line is also called the low-side. They are called that way because of the pressures inside the lines.

 

well I was thinking since the hose has a major leak (since my mechanic tried dumping a can of the refrigerant and it came out as soon as the compressor kicked in ) that there's nothing in the system there for I could just unscrew the discharge hose and replace it since it's east to get to , then take it back to my mechanic for him to dump the r12 stuff I have , simple as that.

 

Have your mechanic do a leak down test before using the refrigirant. That R12 is getting harder to come by. I am surprised that you being in California that your mechanic would even touch it. It may still be legal for him to install it but the government is trying to get rid of it. Wish I had some R12 for myself.

 

a friend of mine dad is a retired mechanic and has a few cans of the r12 left over and my mechanic is being low key about installing it.

 

Not that low key on a forum though

Let's be factual though, the 134A stuff is a bit cheaper and works excellent in this things. It takes only two parts totaling $6 to 'convert' and all of 3 minutes to install those parts. So, what's the whole big deal using R12? My AC blows cold as hell with 134a, you'll be fine as well.

 

ok wow didn't know it's so cheap to convert , so what two parts that cost $6. Will I need , I was told by an a/c tech that's it's not as cold with the 134a stuff and he charges 240 to convert and recharge to 134a so I'd really like to know !!

 

Pic below is all you need for the 'conversion' .. Autoparts store have them. You need to pay for the rest of the service as you otherwise would. Evacuate the system, this is very important, refill with the exact right amount of new refrigerant. Some places quoted me $80, some $120, but I made a deal with one shop that he has to fill it and re-fill for free once the leak was found. I paid him $220 and we did find the leak, same hose as yours.

 

Ok as far as replacing the discharge hose , do I just unbolt it from the compressor and from the condenser and connect the new one up and pump the refrigerant ? It has a big Hugh leak so I know there is no pressure in the system or must I have the system vacuumed first then disconnect hose or vacuumed after hose replacement then pump refrigerant in ? Or no need to have system vacuumed since the hugh leak ??? Just replace hose and pump in refrigerant ?

 

Well turns out no one makes a a/c discharge hose for 88/89 4runners 1st gens so I found a local radiator A / C shop that can rebuild my old one after that hope that's all the leaks I got

 

The $240 should include a new Receiver drier (aka filter drier on some parts sites), flushing the lines, replacing the O-rings with HNBR (green) o-rings, and sometimes a new Expansion Valve along with the conversion fitting adapters.

Since you have it apart I'd recommend replacing the receiver drier since it is a cheap part that's easy to replace and keeps moisture from causing corrosion inside your A/C system. Napa has one for about $14. If you do, DO NOT replace it or even remove the seal until right before you take it to your mechanic or the desiccant will load up with moisture from your open system, which is the reason it should be replaced anyway.

That being said, I also converted mine to R134a with the $6 service port adapter kit and it provided cold air for a number of years until one of the o-rings went bad. The A/C didn't work when I bought it.

About a month ago I replaced as many o-rings as I could without tearing out my dash, flushed the lines, put in some fresh oil with a UV additive, put a vacuum pump on it to evacuate all the air and moisture out, and made sure it held a vacuum for at least 15 minutes before I was sure the leak was fixed. Then I charged it with freon and have had cold air since.

Edit: Looks like the filter dryer is going to be around $17 from NAPA in your area.

 

Yeah got the discharge line rebuilt $65 but looks solid and installed it today and I picked up a drier/receiver from autozone for $15 gonna replace that tomorrow along with the new green o-rings then off to my mechanic

 

Well got the new drier/ receiver in now at my mechanics with the vacuum pump on the a/c system for a hour then put in the freon. Hope it all works out.

 

Well got the a/ c working filled with the banned r12 it's cold but I was expecting super cold since it's the r12 but satisfied.