MooseRunner

Hey folks, did some reading from other posts and wanted to see if anyone else had the same opinion I have. I think my igniter may have been on its last legs but the new coil pushed it over the edge.

Was experimenting with one of those universal Accel super coils as I saw someone on here had good luck with it on a 22RE. Tried it on my 1988 3VZE with the igniter properly grounded. Wont fire off, definitely have fuel and it wants to start so badly!

Replaced with stock coil and same deal, no start. Swapped out the igniter for one I had in the garage that I was pretty sure was dead but figured why not. Same deal, fuel pump turns on, strong spin per usual but no fire.

So prior to this I had suspicion my igniter may be on its way out as I had a few odd electrical hiccups around a certain RPM range in the last week or so including one instance of it starting and then dying for a second once it hit the same rpm range before picking back up again and idling normal. Also the coil that was already in there was about 7 months old and I had made numerous 300ish mile round trips with the rig since with no issues.

Thanks as always and appreciate input or suggestions, I do have a multi meter just not sure how to test an igniter with it.

MooseRunner

Just an update, thought I had fuel and was hearing fuel pump click but it was something else. Almost fired off this morning probably with the gas sitting from cranking, then nothing. No click to fuel pump and no codes so I suspect the relay was just on its way out given the issues leading up to it. Funny how adding new parts seemingly causes other things to go out as if they are on their last legs. I will update later this week in hopes this helps someone else.

scope103

You don't know if you have spark or fuel, but you're swapping parts, hoping for .... ?

First, put your inductive pickup on your timing light on each plug wire. When you crank, if the light flashes you have spark. If you have spark, your problem is not the igniter or coil. (No timing light? A basic $25 tool you need before much of anything else.)

Next, see if you have fuel flow. Replace the FPR return line with a 1/4" (6mm) line to a suitable container. Start the fuel pump by jumpering FP to B+ (key-on). There is no spec, but I get about 1/2 liter/min. If no flow, the pump may not be running. DO NOT "crack" a fuel line connection. It's really dangerous, but more importantly, you have to replace the crush washers every time you open such connection.

Then try a tiny spritz of starting fluid to see what happens. If it now runs for a bit, you have a fuel delivery problem (maybe no injector pulse).

MooseRunner

Thanks for outlining the fuel procedure. I knew there was a way to test it but just was not sure how. I will give that a go. I have a whole roll of 1/4" fuel line as i just replaced that very line not too long ago. I know what you mean on the washers, had one go on me last week on my 93 when i took it out from winter storage...easy fix.

I did in fact check for spark just with a different method, didnt even think of using my timing gun.

I tested continuity of the EFI relay and got open loop on the first test and still open loop with 12V applied from the battery so I believe it to be nonfunctional and a matter of coincidence to the coil install. Coil tested fine as it measured resistance. Oddly enough the truck came with a new in box EFI relay...maybe previous owner suspected something....

I know many do not agree with the parts cannon method but this truck was abused and neglected and has come a very long way. Im not worried about replacing some old crusty parts here and there along the way. Only issue is I have had defective stuff right out of the box a few times over the last maybe year and a half.

MooseRunner

So i checked spark at coil wire too and thats good. Fuel flow checks out, clean gas flowing out no issues at a seemingly good rate. Still no crank. Ignition coil showing 1.6 ohms...so how would i address injector pulse? Ive only ever changed injectors on a different truck never dealt with them beyond that.

scope103

The crankshaft is not turning? Perhaps you mean "no fire"?

Did you try a tiny spritz of starting fluid? If (for instance) the ignition timing is way off it won't fire that way either. But if it fires with starting fluid, you probably have a fuel delivery problem. If you get flow out of the FPR return line, you still might not have enough pressure, so I'd check that before I used noid lights on the injectors.

MooseRunner

Yes sorry was typing fast. Cranks very strong just no fire. Dont think its timing cause the cranking isnt running away, i set it to 12 BTDC back in the fall.

Ok. Is there a way to check the regulator or is that something you just have to replace? Its tight, doesnt leak and i put a new vaccum line on it. I dont have any starting fluid, would carb cleaner do just for this brief test? This scenario just reminds me of when the air flow meter plug was bad on another one, strong effort to start but no fire...i know its all linked back to the ECU

scope103

I don't know what this means.
Man, you are just desperate to haul out the parts cannon! If your new vacuum line wasn't hooked up correctly, what good would it do to replace the FPR?

How would you test a Fuel Pressure Regulator? Maybe a pressure gauge? You can cobble one together with plumbing parts (several on this forum have done that with good results), or you can get this one https://actron.com/content/professio...ure-tester-kit because it comes with the banjo-schraeder adapter you need.

MooseRunner

When a timing belt snaps or is about to go the cranking spins a bit quicker. Ive done the job twice before successfully ask me how I know...lol This is my 4th 3VZE.

Yes ive gathered that I have tested pressure at the rail before but Im asking if there is a way to test the regulator seperately from testing the pressure at the rail. The regulator is actually newer i believe i replaced it last year some time when i was chasing an idle issue that ended up being the throttle set screw o ring.

Its not the hose, its the correct size and no tears or kinks. Pretty hard to mess up a vaccum hose, replacing them all is one of the things on the "new truck to do list" haha

MooseRunner

SOLVED
While testing my air flow meter for continuity per FSM i noticed fuel in the throttle body. Tested the cold start injector and it was firing full time and not just a short bit like it should. Disconnected and truck fired right up. The efi relay was bad tho coincidentally.

Thank you all again! Hoping this helps someone as I see this come up as a common issue.