I haven't looked at a non-turbo motor for a while, sorry. Where does the other end of that line connect to?

 

Also to help you understand that tube with the little filter on it ties into the PAIR system that is connected to the underside of the intake. The air at that point doesn't need to be metered via the afm since it doesn't have a direct correlation with how much air is going into the intake and how much fuel is needed for said air. Does that make sense? Basically the air from that tube doen't matter when being considered for combustion in the motor. It's more or less a silencer of sorts.

 

It also recirculates the exhaust as well from the little tubes on the side of the header if i'm not mistaken.

 

P.S. you made me miss that old truck as i lost it last year. Knew that thing from the frame up had it since i was 17.

 

Gotchya! I thought it was actually part of the intake seeings how he was talking about the resonator pipe. I was picturing something different. Thanks for the info!

 

nope. it's for the emissions system. all it does is suck in air to the exhaust to burn excess fuel in the exhaust, preventing backfire conditions and increasing the life of the cat. some people have completely done away with the system, but i'm not sure if they have emissions...

also, on the stock air box, it draws air from before the meter. if you want to put it on the main air-intake pipe, go for it

 

well, it looks like everyone answered that question. my set up is almost exactly like the one in the photo. it pretty much mimics the stock setup.

has anyone who has shortened that hose and moved it to the passenger side noticed any difference? just wondering if it's worth the trouble.

 

definitely worth it. search for "battery intake swap" or on my links on page 4

 

yeah, i hear that swapping the intake and AFM to the pass. side is a good thing. much cooler air for the motor that way. i might do the swap once i decide to switch over to dual batteries. or if i get bored this summer.

but, what i was wondering is....did you notice any difference by moving just the small hose that connects to the resonator? i saw someone on here that did that, thought it was you, and i wasn't sure why they did it. i assume any cooler air is better for the motor.

 

nah, i don't think it matters where that small one goes. i just moved it because i did the swap at the same time

the swap, if done right, takes less than a day, and for about $50

 

*UPDATE*

So, it's been almost a week now since i worked on the truck. i've had a chance to drive it a few times this week and run it down the highway for a couple of one hour round trip drives.

well, last saturday i reset the ECU and checked all of my intake connections. i found that all of the clamps on the intake from the AFM to the TB were actually kind of loose. so, i tightened all of the clamps pretty tight and crossed my fingers.

first day i drove it i noticed a difference. the truck ran great and had a noticeable amount of more power and ran really smooth through all five gears. seems strange to me that air getting in behind the AFM could cause a loss of power, but i can only say that i know what i feel driving the truck now. and, after this week, knock on wood, no more check engine light.

thanks again for all of the advice everyone.


next up....new wheels and possibly 33x10.50x15 BFG AT tires. maybe.

 

Well, any air leaking in past the AFM is unmetered. That means the ECU does not know that air is there, so does not add enough fuel for it to burn. Plus, the more unmetered air that leaks in means that there is less metered air, so less fuel and the air/fuel mixture is all off, so less power or no power is the result.

 

I just did mine 20 min ago.
94 p/u 4x4 22re all stock. I am having the SAME PROBLEM I bought a $200 re-manufactured unit. It has the correct part number on it. This thing about pulling the fuse. Might be a dumb question but should I still have battery power while it "resets" or should I disconnect neg and the fuse?

 

anyone?

 

You need to kill power to the ECU for a period of time to reset it. You can pull the fuse (to reset just the ECU) or you can disconnect the battery cable (will clear memory in radio or other devices as well).

 

Thanks for the reply. I disconnected both last night to ensure a good reset. I am about to get up and turn her back on. Guess we'll see

 

HOLY WOW!
It feels like a new truck VERY smooth idle and a noticeable difference in responsiveness. I am in love!

 

Good to hear man. It really is a big difference isn't it. at least for me it was. although, i'm about to kill all my power gains as i'm pulling the trigger on a set of 33x10.50x15's this week. running those with 4.10's is gonna suck for a while until i get some 4.88's under it.

anyone in the portland area have complete front and rear 4.88 geared third's for sale for a good price? basically, looking for used, as low mileage as possible, V6 4Runner rear axle and IFS front diff.

also, weeks later and the truck is still running great. be sure to keep the intake tight folks.

 

a quick question, if you plug in your old afm does the truck run correctly??? i would put it in to make sure something else did not happen during swap.

 

have you read this thread or others regarding the AFM swap? if you swap the original AFM back in, and don't reset the ECM, of course the truck isn't going to run correctly. no more than it would with the new AFM without resetting the ECM.

i can't speak for anyone els, but yes, i have swapped in a new AFM, then went back to the original AFM, and then back again to a new AFM and the truck ran just fine with the original AFM installed, but that's because i reset the ECM.