TheExonerator

I don't know if anyone is still paying attention here, but I just did the swap today and have the same exact problem. I can't say that I've tried all the remedies yet though, so when I get through them, and have found out either way, I'll let ya'll know.
Heading to Portland at the end of the month Woodsman, maybe I'll be able to solve this thang, and bring the knowledge with me.

NorthernWoodsman

Yeah, I gave up. Too much happening at the time to give it more thought.

I would love to hear what you figure out or discover. Let me know if you figure it out when you're in town and I'll buy you a drink over AFM talk.

Later.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

Does it matter what year 22re he has?

TheExonerator

Don't know, don't think so, but I got mine working right. It was just that I had a leak in my previously shoddy intake set up. Air getting in post AFM was my problem.
Anyways, all good now. Drove it to the NW from CO and it ran fine the whole way.
Sorry I missed you woodsman. I stopped in Portland, but not for long. I'm in Bellingham now, but I'll let you know next time I come down your way (which should be relatively soon) if you want to take a look and drink that beer.

NorthernWoodsman

bellingham! my old home. love that place.

yeah, so i ended up buying a reman AFM to be sure it was in good working condition. things ran fine fro two months then all of a sudden i got a code 25=lean air/fuel mixture.

yesterday it idled a little funny when i started it up, the idle fluctuated up/down until i revved it and then it settled down. other than the code and yesterday idle oddity the truck runs great still so i'm confused.

don't know if i'm wrecking my motor right now or not. wondering if i need to have someone check the motor for leaks (vacuum lines, etc...)

how's your truck running these days?

TheExonerator

Well besides a blown head gasket and resulting in a new cam, timing, camshaft pulley/dynamic balancer and other stuff, its running real well. I'm actually in Portland right now although not with the truck, but what fixed mine was to make sure there were no leaks in behind the AFM. In your case, I don't know.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

nm... i read on...

NorthernWoodsman

hmmm, okay. not sure if we we're having the exact same problem. i reset the ECM just now and i'll drive it over the next few days/week and see if the code shows up again. if so, then ???, maybe i'll try testing for air leaks. my vacuum lines are original so maybe there's a crack/leak somewhere? the throttle body gasket looks nice and tight.

are there other places i should look for leaks besides vacuum lines and the TB gasket?

TheExonerator

The seal on the AFM, but you've probably checked it out there.
Got a party going on tonight, sending you a pm if you want to come check it out and get that beer.

NorthernWoodsman

just took a sneak peek at your build thread. i have one of those Warn bumpers. found it used on craigslist for a decent price. gonna have some mod's done before i install it though. and then i have to decide: paint vs. powder coat???

have you had ANY problems since doing the AFM swap? ANY codes show up?

is your intake using a 3" pipe?

i need to figure out how to get my intake tube up a little higher like yours. currently, mine rests against the radiator hose, the valve cover and the distributor cap. i need about a 1/4 inch lift i think.

irab88

iTrader: (4)

i've had no problems whatsoever with my supra afm. the only code i got from the swap was for the tps, which i had temporarily unplugged. a simple reset cured that.

my intake had to go over the a/c lines, which stick up a lot. i bought about twice as much stuff as i needed to find something that fit. i ended up using (in order of airflow):
-short cone air filter (spectre)
-supra afm
-3-inch silicone hump connector (siliconeintakes.com)
-3-inch aluminum 45-degree elbow (spectre)
-3-inch to 2.5-inch silicone 90-degree elbow (siliconeintakes.com)

here is my battery/intake swap thread. a lot of info there. and for my "cold air intake" setup, here is that thread (before the swap). i made a bracket for that out of aluminum angle.

fissure333

so, i've done the swap to several rigs and never had the issue you are talking about. i'm about a half hour or so away from stumptown. i've ripped these trucks apart up and down. instead of pulling the neg cable, pull the big black ECU fuse in the box under the hood on the pass side. can't miss it. pull it out for about a half hour. i could probably meet you somewhere out by engnbldr's place and go from there. you would be amazed how ez a fix can be sometimes, the 'ol homer simpson response. how did you cure your resonator pipe? you know the small one that pipes into the stock box?

NorthernWoodsman

I hadn't even thought of pulling the ECU fuse....good to know. I'm gonna go do that as soon as I'm done writing this.

I pulled the neg. battery cable yesterday for an hour and also tightened all of my clamps from the AFM to the TB (they were a lot looser than I realized). When I restarted the truck the check engine light did NOT light up. But, I didn't drive it either, just idled it in the driveway.

The resonator pipe....I bought some hose at the auto parts store and attached a small K&N filter to the end of it. Currently it sits next to the big filter on the AFM, sort of similar to the stock placement. I'm thinking I might shorten the hose and zip-tie it somewhere on the pass. side.

I'm going to see how things go after unplugging/plugging the ECU fuse and driving it for a few days. If things get worse or the check engine light comes back on I might take you up on the offer of help. I'll let you know. and thanks for the offer too, really appreciated.

NorthernWoodsman

Update: I just looked under the hood at the fuse box....I have two black relays, but no big black fuse. I'm looking at a fuse diagram right now and I cannot find one for the ECU....there is one labeled #27-Alt 80A: ECU-IG (it includes other starting system components as well). Is that the right one?

Update #2: Just tried to pull that fuse....there was no way I was getting it out. That thing feels bolted in there. I started to try using a pair of channel-locks, but I almost cracked the fuse. How the heck are you supposed to get that out of there?

irab88

iTrader: (4)

update 1- yes, if it says "efi" or "ecu", that's the right one

update 2- if they've been in there for a while, they will be hart to pull out. just pull with a constant force and gently rock back and forth. you may have to break it and put a new fuse in there

NorthernWoodsman

okay, so i just pulled a relay, not a fuse, that is labeled EFI. Still not sure if the fuse i found was the right one or not. the fuse was directly next to the relay, but it isn't labeled on the truck. the fuse is actually labeled.

well, we'll see what happens either way. i'm sort of double resetting the ECU as i already pulled the battery cable yesterday.

wish me luck.

BoostedRNR

Okay, the part about the resonator pipe and the little K&N is worrying me. Every bit of air entering the motor has to pass through the AFM. If that resonator pipe is after the AFM but before the throttle body, then that is where your problem is. You need to take a good picture of what you're talking about.

BoostedRNR

Like this picture...
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't that air need to be metered that is coming in through that little filter?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

that's my motor and no it doesn't

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

that piece doesn't run through the afm originally so therefore it doesn't need to be metered. It just ties into the air box not the afm.