have the same afm from the 82 supra and it was complete plug and play. Timing is fine and idle is as well. You might have a faulty afm or even a tps. Start checking and rechecking both to track down your answer. It's odd but this is the first time i've heard about the afm from the 82 giving anybody trouble. Good luck i've been reading this thread from the start and all of these guys gave you solid advice.

here's a pic of mine not that it will help but to back up the others saying it plugged and played without modification. good luck man hope you figure it out.

 

If all was well before the AFM swap, then nothing else should be bad. I think I'd look at the wiring harness. I've had the ground terminal on my 3vze back out of the clip before when I was doing some work on the engine having to disconnect and reconnect the AFM. Wasn't getting a solid connection because of that.

 

[QUOTE=mightymouse;51487014]have the same afm from the 82 supra and it was complete plug and play. Timing is fine and idle is as well. You might have a faulty afm or even a tps. Start checking and rechecking both to track down your answer. It's odd but this is the first time i've heard about the afm from the 82 giving anybody trouble. Good luck i've been reading this thread from the start and all of these guys gave you solid advice.


Yep, absolutely solid advice from the folks here. I totally agree.

I'm very appreciative of all of the help I'm getting. It's just so weird. The AFM, in theory, should be good. It was dirty as hell when I got it, but I spent a lot of time [like 10 hours] cleaning and polishing it inside and out. Both seals, top and bottom, were very good and completely factory sealed tight. I cleaned the plug on the AFM and the plug on the truck with electronic parts cleaner and all of the connections look good visually. Everything tested good with the multimeter too.

Totally scratching my head on this one. What is the "tps"? Throttle position sensor?

Okay, so no one has had to adjust timing or idle…hmmm, that's weird. Well, I'll recheck everything on the AFM again, make sure my connectors are all tight and make sure the plug is connected well.

P.S. How could an AFM be bad if it hasn't been opened or modified?

 

How many miles have you driven with this thing installed?

 

I got my AFM from a mid 80`s cresida, part #2225043110, it looks just like the one in the picture that Big Blue Pile posted above, and it was plug and play, and i didn`t even disconect the battery when i was finished installing it, and my 4Runner started up and ran perfect when i was done.

 

So, I just got back from my first test drive. About 10 miles or so in the city. The truck runs awesome while I'm driving it. A lot more power from a dead stop. No more lag and slow start. Yeah! More power on small hills in higher gears too.

However, at idle things still suck. It stays around 500RPM. If I very, very carefully apply light pressure to the accelerator it jumps from 500 to 1,000 real quick, almost lurches upward in RPM's. But, I was able to very carefully bring the RPM's up from 500 to about 900 and then let off the accelerator and the RPM's stayed there and the engine ran good at idle. But, if I rev the motor quick, the RPM's drop back down to 500 again at idle.

So confused.

 

...excuse my ignorance , but what in the world does afm stand for??

is it like a fm radio.

lol i was kidding about the radio

 

ok, i think i got it, is it the air flow meter?

 

correct.

Do you know what "tps" stands for by any chance?

 

lol yeah im not stupid, throttle position sensor.

lol abbreaviations confuse me sometimes haha

 

don't think you're stupid. i really was wondering what tps stood for. I thought it was for throttle position sensor, but wasn't sure.

 

i dont have any experience with the swap, yet, but have you tried changing the idle up a bit more? you had to disconnect unlike anyone else so maybe youll have to adjust the idle as well.. jack the idle back up to where its supposed to be and drive it around and see how it runs.. from what ive read it should make a somewhat noticeable improvement in power.. theres a flathead screw on the throttle body, the tighter you turn it the less air that gets in and the looser the more air that gets in.. also, recheck your fittings and make sure there are no cracks or anything in the tubes.. its very stubborn when it comes to its intake, i had a hairline crack in mine and it ran like crap..

 

disregard that last post, i didnt see the post about the test drive.. it sounds like the tps though..

 

test it like the afm and see what it yields.. heres two links thatll help you.. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf

 

Pull the throttle body off the truck and give it a good cleaning, that will probably help a lot.

 

This is interesting. That cap is missing on my AFM. Maybe it just fell off over the years. But, maybe someone did mess with it at some point?

Would someone that either has an AFM with the cap off already or is willing to remove the cap tell me at what the depth the top of the screw is at on their AFM?

Also, I want to ask again; Does anyone know what the "plunger switch" located approximately on the front right corner does? It appears to just limit the compensation plate from opening completely. Is that just an emissions thing? Or something else?

One more question: Am I going to screw something up on/in my motor with it running like crap right now?

 

Drove it again today for a short trip around the neighborhood. It drives great still. Definitely more power from take off. But, at stop lights and when in neutral coasting to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 500 every time.

The idle is still acting strange. With the truck sitting and idling, it leveled out at around 750-800rpm's, today. HOWEVER, if I rev the motor and let off the idle drops back down to 500rpm's, then after 18 seconds it climbs back to 750-800rpm's.

I retested the AFM with my multimeter and it checks out perfect. I also tested the TPS with the multimeter and this is what I found:

1. VTA-E2: within range, but I can't remember the exact number
2. IDL-E2 (w/.57 shim): .01 (supposed to be <2.3K) *is .01 good or bad here? I can't remember if < means greater or less than.*
3. IDL-E2 (w/.85 shim): open/infinite, like it should be
4. VTA-E2 (wide open throttle): 2.89K (supposed to be 3.1K-12.1K)
5. Vcc-E2: 3.64K (supposed to be 3.9K-9.0K)

I also started the engine w/everything connected and adjusted the idle air adjustment screw on the AFM both CW and CCW and nothing happened.

When the motor is idling at 500rpm's I smell a somewhat strong odor of fuel coming from the exhaust.

Tomorrow I'm headed to Autozone to return a tool. I'll have them read the computer for any codes while I'm there.

I'll check the timing also tomorrow, or Sunday.

Any more thoughts on this?

 

Hows it runnin?

 

< means less than. So, .01 is perfectly acceptable. Don't remember what Vcc is for, though. Hmmm......I'll have to refresh my memory on that.

 

I THINK that's the air temp signal...IIRC...