You're thinking of the airflow meter, bubba......

Thanks, razed. I hadn't done any TPS troubleshooting in a while, so I'd forgotten that detail. So, in his case, wouldn't this mean when voltage is applied to the TPS, every circuit that relies on this voltage wouldn't be getting the proper amount? As well, wouldn't it mean the ECU is getting improper voltages readings? Given that the resistance on the Vcc terminal of his TPS if off, that is.

 

i think autozone only reads OBDII codes, hell, in cali they dont even read em anymore, theyre not allowed to.. you can read em yourself though, theres a yellow connector on the drivers side in your engine bay near the headlight, if youve done the timing you should know where this one is since you have to do this to bypass the automatic timing advance thing, but its the smaller one, just stick a paper clip in the two terminals, , and turn on the key to the on position but dont start it, and see how many times the check engine light flashes.. linky for directions.. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector and link for chart.. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...osticcodes.gif

 

In the midst of conflict, kindness is always underrated. Relax.

 

X2.

Leave the anger out of here please.

P.S. The truck is still running just the same as when I posted below (with the multimeter test results). In other words, the idle still sucks. It only idles where it's supposed to if I very gently apply pressure to the accelerator. The whole drive to and from work, the rpm's at idle were 400-500.

Totally not sure what to do. If it is indeed the TPS, they're over $100 at Toyota. I am not budgeted for that. Thinking I may try to find a parts truck with one and test it. If it tests out okay then I'll do a swap.

 

Well, when I'd first joined YT, it was suggested to me to disconnect the TPS if I suspect troubles. It was discovered by some people that did this that when the TPS was bad and was disconnected, the vehicle initially ran better. You can try this in lieu of actually getting a new one right away.

Edit: I still think that if the truck ran fine before the AFM installation, it's something other than the TPS, though. Did you check that ground terminal on the connector?

 

i know theyre OBDI, thats why I said they only read OBDII codes, i didnt specify that very clearly though apparently.. and i didnt realize until i just looked at his profile that his is a 2nd gen, so my apologies to that.. were all here to try and help, if you want to correct me, then do so but give me solutions and tips to prevent future screw-ups, im new to toyotas as well, im still learning, but criticizing doesnt help anyone or anything.. back to the topic at hand, i would try what thook suggested first, as ive seen quite a couple ppl with the same sort of problem try this and it worked.. and think back to before you connected it, did you mess with any wires, any sensors, connect or disconnect or cut anything?

 

I think razed's apparent and understandable frustration is probably due to the wrong brand of underwear. FOTL FTW!

 

lol.. isnt that a performance exhaust company for bikes?

 

Maybe razed could use some performance.............aaaaand some exhaust. Hot air. That sorta thing.

 

haha.. im sure his heads got enough hot air in it that it needs a good flowin exhuast.. '

 

His head's just fine. I just think he probably eats at Taco Bell too much.

 

ugh.. i know how that can be.. the runny's are the torture, makes ya feel like a woman on her period.. now it all makes sense.. hes on his period.. '

 

Razed is a really good guy. Personally, I'm just giving him a hard time. Razzing him, not insulting or trying to be vulgar. But, that's just me.

 

oh i know.. i got nothin against him, i dont really hold grudges, and it was an honest mistake by me for the incorrect info.. but humor lightens the mood and i like to play around..

 

Certainly. But, the folks that run the place don't have much of a taste for when humor starts to get too far on the slippery side. Can't say I'm much of a fan of it, myself.....though, I'm not a prude, either.

Anyway, it's all good. Keep in light, eh?

 

Not to mention, I think we've successfully temporarily derailed the thread. That oughtta make us popular.....hehehe.

Back to the program....

 

Totally not sure what to do. If it is indeed the TPS, they're over $100 at Toyota. I am not budgeted for that. Thinking I may try to find a parts truck with one and test it. If it tests out okay then I'll do a swap.[/QUOTE]

The last TPS i bought cost me around 70.00 dollars, just do a search and you can find them cheaper than the dealer price.

 

well, interesting commentary in here since my last visit.

Okay, so who can read my codes? I have a place for a code reader to plug into on the passenger side fender well. I don't want to replace the TPS if I'm not positive that it is the problem. TPS=$$$

So, I am not sure what I am gonna do. The whole point of doing the swap was because it was a plug and play mod. I have no interest in fu@#ing with the idle screw or TPS unit (unless necessary). Those are factory set and I'd actually prefer to keep as much stuff stock as possible. Bolt on mods like the AFM, exhaust, ignition system are great. But, I don't want to mess with the reliability of my truck. It has to last a long time for me and I don't want to spend all of my time trying to get it back into to tune because I messed with things too much.

I have no idea what to do right now. My brain is fried from thinking about it all week. Maybe I will go back to the stock setup?…..Which would suck because the truck runs so much better with the new AFM, except at idle.

 

assuming your truck has the same idle screw as mine on the throttle body, have you tried adjusting it at all? just remember how many turns you did to set it back to stock if you need to.. but try puttin the idle up just a bit and see if that makes a difference.. i remember when I had to get my truck smogged i had to lower the idle and it was a tad touchy, not as much as yours but it was similar.. or im thinkin maybe when you cleaned it all up you screwed somethin up.. hmm.....

 

Yeah, interesting commentary is there for gits and shiggles. Mostly ours, but hey.....we had you in mind......honestly.

Well, that's why I'd suggested to try disconnecting the TPS and see what difference that made. Doing this won't hurt anything or affect the TPS settings. Even then, adjusting the idle speed won't hurt anything. Simply mark where it is and count how many times you turn it. Then, turn it back if the effect is not satisfactory. Given the circumstances, where no one else had to do this, you shouldn't have to mess with it, though.

You can read the codes yourself. Take a paper clip, bend it over in half, and place either end the terminals the read Te1 and E1 (see the stick under the cap, if there still is one). Turn the key to ignition. The CEL will come on and flash a code, if there is one. There are one digit codes and two digit codes. With two digit codes, it will blink so many times, short pause, and then blink again so many times. If there is a second code, it will flash the first code with the short pause, a long pause, and then blink again. With one digit codes, if there is more than one code, the CEL will blink so many times followed by a long pause, and then blink again so many times. If there's only one code, it will blink so many, long pause, and repeat the same code. Hope that made sense.

My favorite decoder webpage is gone for some reason, but this one works...

http://www.extreme-check-engine-ligh...%20Decoder.htm