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adjusting wheel lock tabs

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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 04:04 PM
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adjusting wheel lock tabs

So i just completely put in my new locker in my runner and realized I forgot to put on the stupid lock tabs in the side bearing adjusting wheels. I was wondering... can i run it without them? I guess a dumb question because I assume the adjusting wheels can back off and potentially cause major damage. I guess my only option is to tear it down to put them on :/ Any input appreciated.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 04:30 PM
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Side bearing adjuster wheels? On the 3rd member? Yea tear it back down and install them.

Last edited by JasonYota; Jan 15, 2015 at 04:32 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 04:47 PM
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Yes on the third member. And okay! Should be fun doing everything all over again! Haha not
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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The good news is it goes faster the second (and third) times. I had to tear mine down 3 times because they sold me the wrong bearings, which were close enough to the right size to look correct, to my inexperienced eye, but not close enough to actually allow setting the gears properly. The third time I finally figured it out.

So, I guess you gotta take your lumps. Don't feel alone; we've all been there at one point or another.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 07:45 PM
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You get faster at it every time. Haha.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:15 PM
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It took two and half hours to tear it down and put it back together lol. Not too bad. The spartan performs great so far im really happy with it and reccomend to anyone even on road it ratchets perfectly around turns when off the gas pedal. Now to deal with my cel anyone deal with code 25? Lean signal from O2
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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Check for vacuum leaks before you dive into troubleshooting an O2 code.
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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I tried spraying throttle body cleaner or some spray like that around with engine running but didnt notice anything.. ill try again though
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Old Jan 19, 2015 | 07:03 PM
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Tried spraying throttle cleaner around the vacuum lines again and nothin. Pulled the codes and there are actually two. 14 and 25.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 09:49 AM
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Have you pulled the EFI fuse to clear the codes recently? Do that and run for awhile again to make sure you're not dealing with codes from a long time ago. Code 14 is lack of an IGF signal from the igniter to the ECU. Generally the engine won't run long if that's an actual consistent problem.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 01:57 PM
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As long as the cel was on i remember these two codes always being together even after replacing my o2 sensor, maf sensor, cracked intake tube and pcv. I was reading other stuff on google and said i should replace the igniter. But i will try what you say. So i need to pull the neg battery cable, then pull the efi fuse and put it back in then drive for awhile to see if it throws the same two codes correct? It also gets like 2mpg its ridiculous lol
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:14 PM
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Interesting. I pulled the efi fuse and unplugged the coil and igniter then put everything back on and it turns over and wont start.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:51 PM
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Double check that you got everything fully plugged in. If either the ignitor or EFI fuse weren't plugged in completely, it wouldn't start.
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Old Jan 20, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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I checked and theyre all plugged in properly. I think im going to replace the igniter and see what happens. Last time i started it it was hard to start and felt like it was going to start just now but didnt.

Edit: yeah i forgot there was a ground wire on the bracket of the coil pack/igniter. So i bolted that back on and it does still start lol. It hasnt thrown the codes again after drivin it around our driveway but it still misses like crazy. Im sure the codes will come back. I might just take it to get diagnosed once i get it registered. But i do still suspect the igniter but ive been wrong before like with the o2 sensor, maf sensor, pcv and intake tube but still am happy i replaced those though. So a mechanic might be what i do now because im tired replacing parts and not fixing my cel :/

Last edited by SMOD; Jan 20, 2015 at 03:56 PM.
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