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@twotwore found it! haha. you can disregard my questions in the other related thread. But anyway... YES!!! you yota geniuses! I can't believe we all have this same problem! or actually I can, but regardless I'm so stoked on this community of solution makers and how much I learn on this forum! I was just looking at the PS/diaphram/AC setup yesterday thinking "why not a T right here"? so kudos to you @TLfromAI , glad to know it works. Gonna order my parts right now. Thanks again to you all. Now, if someone could just answer this one... Is the wiring plug for the VSV on the 22RE the same as the one on the 22R? I'm swapping the AC system from an 22R to an RE truck.
arlindsay1992, That's it! you did it! I had a bunch of pics ready to upload and then my computer shut down. Just make sure you put the new diaphragm from donor actuator back in the same orientation. That center raised part is flat on one side. That goes against the port above it. The other side (the bottom) has a a raised nub in the middle that the small end of the spring fits around to keep the spring and diaphragm aligned with each other. I'll try again to upload my pics.
Inside of disassembled actuator. diaaphragm cracked Donor Part Donor part Old diaphragm on left (Spring side). New on right from donor part Old diaphragm on left (Port side) 4-40 size allen head stainless steel bolts, nuts, lock washers, flat washers Use one of flat washers to align drill, Using needle nose vice grips to hold everything together complete. Later I had to turn two of the bolts so that they inserted from bottom otherwise the bolt ends hit the cold start injector when I screw actuator in installed and works like new.
Thanks! I've learned soooooooooooo much from this community it feels good to finally contribute something!
Melrose,
I drove it around today and didn't have any power steering issues with the AC on or off.
twotwore,
I took a gamble that Toyota would use a standard thread on all these diaphragms. Luckily that turned out to be true. There are a couple other diaphragms from old Toyota models that should also work, but this one was the cheapest and had the inputs/outputs in the closest configuration to what we already have. But your way is the only way I know to have that original look!
So now people have alternatives to the used Ebay part (don't know if it even works part), and depending on what they want, original look (but with some bolts) or your alternative with the T fitting and minimal modification to hoses, there is a solid fix. I just looked at Ebay and see original used part being offered at between $65 and $110. Crazy! The laws of supply and demand at work. Your alternative part can be purchased for $17 plus shipping (new) and used as is or scavenged for the new diaphragm to rebuild existing one or purchase the part I obtained (new) to also scavenge the diaphragm for about $11 plus shipping. I think those Ebay prices will come way down now once people learn that they don't have to pay those prices, especially for a part that the seller probably does not even know how to test or a way to confirm the condition of the diaphragm inside. Just have to get the word out about these fixes (Toyota Pickup Truck A/C air conditioning idle up bypass actuator diaphragm sub-assy cooler). I think that covers enough words for a search to capture. If there was enough demand for the discontinued part, a company such as Airtex Wells or other company could manufacture aftermarket replacement part. I would bet though that there are thousands of units of NOS parts hidden in some warehouse somewhere in the world. I doubt I will have my truck for much longer anyway. I have a backup part just in case. If it was 4x4 I might keep it for longer. It is useful on occasion with a high ARE fiberglass cap and its extracab DLX with 5 speed. Its been in Florida all its life near ocean so it has rust. It was difficult for me to find good quality tires for it too. Its not a popular size anymore (P205-75-R14). Not putting money into other size rims. I can buy trailer tires that size all day long but I cant put trailer tires on my truck. Anyway very excited that this thread is helping people get their cool on again while idling at the light.
So now people have alternatives to the used Ebay part (don't know if it even works part), and depending on what they want, original look (but with some bolts) or your alternative with the T fitting and minimal modification to hoses, there is a solid fix. I just looked at Ebay and see original used part being offered at between $65 and $110. Crazy! The laws of supply and demand at work. Your alternative part can be purchased for $17 plus shipping (new) and used as is or scavenged for the new diaphragm to rebuild existing one or purchase the part I obtained (new) to also scavenge the diaphragm for about $11 plus shipping. I think those Ebay prices will come way down now once people learn that they don't have to pay those prices, especially for a part that the seller probably does not even know how to test or a way to confirm the condition of the diaphragm inside. Just have to get the word out about these fixes (Toyota Pickup Truck A/C air conditioning idle up bypass actuator diaphragm sub-assy cooler). I think that covers enough words for a search to capture. If there was enough demand for the discontinued part, a company such as Airtex Wells or other company could manufacture aftermarket replacement part. I would bet though that there are thousands of units of NOS parts hidden in some warehouse somewhere in the world. I doubt I will have my truck for much longer anyway. I have a backup part just in case. If it was 4x4 I might keep it for longer. It is useful on occasion with a high ARE fiberglass cap and its extracab DLX with 5 speed. Its been in Florida all its life near ocean so it has rust. It was difficult for me to find good quality tires for it too. Its not a popular size anymore (P205-75-R14). Not putting money into other size rims. I can buy trailer tires that size all day long but I cant put trailer tires on my truck. Anyway very excited that this thread is helping people get their cool on again while idling at the light.
Drove the truck to work today here in Florida. I was able to use the AC on the way home. Glorious.
I'll also be able to drive in the rain now. Before it was either too hot to drive with the windows up or it would get too steamy inside and fog the windows up.
Since I couldn’t get the proper part anymore, I got the Toyota part 88606-32010. The larger vacuum port is pointing 180 degrees the wrong direction, so I tightened it a little short. No leaks and I can use the stock vacuum lines. If it had leaked, I would just put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the threads.
Since I couldn’t get the proper part anymore, I got the Toyota part 88606-32010. The larger vacuum port is pointing 180 degrees the wrong direction, so I tightened it a little short. No leaks and I can use the stock vacuum lines. If it had leaked, I would just put a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the threads.
Hi Bmxracer50, I don't think its a problem having that part upside down. might be difficult to adjust. Do you have power steering? I see a vacuum line running into the intake planum just in front of that part. That is coming from power steering right? Normally there are two lines coming off power steering idle control valve that is mounted on power steering pump. Where is your other line? I think you need to set it up like TLfromAI did with the "T" fitting. See his pictures in this thread. Other wise your power steering idle control valve won't tie in to filtered air from in front of throttlbody to make the idle increase when power steering is under load at idle. That is of course assuming the power steering idle control valve is working in the first place.
Thanks for the feedback. I should have clarified - my truck doesn’t have power steering. Also there is sufficient room for me turn the adjuster with my fingers or a wrench if needed.
OK I found a much simpler way to do this. The trick is that the extra port on our diaphragm that goes to the power steering pump is not necessary. The diaphragm does nothing special for the power steering pump except pass through the air intake line. You can use a splitter for that.
Take out the old idle up diaphragm shown here (middle left).
Screw in the new diaphragm. I got over excited and started hooking up lines before I took a picture.
Run the larger tube from the intake to the splitter. That same size tube goes to the diaphragm on the left. The smaller tubing goes to the power steering pump on the right.
Pics of the whole setup.
Works like a champ. Engine idles at 750 rpm normally and now idles at 1000 rpm when I turn on the AC. Total cost about $30 and 5 minutes to remove and replace the old one. You may need some slightly longer vacuum hoses as well.
Stoked this works perfect. My truck is operating better than ever! I made a video about the fix. It’s nice to have a brand new part too instead of an overpriced used one that won’t last as long.
Should there be a suction sound when AC is on or do I have a possible vacuum leak somewhere?
I replaced the diaphragm and VSV and it still doesn’t idle up, any suggestions?
is your ac otherwise working ok? Blowing cold and compressor working?
if not then make sure to recharge ac with coolant at low side port. When it gets low it starts to cycle on off then not do anything.
If its working then make sure your idle is set properly with ac off then turn ac on and adjust the ac idle up valve out so that the truck idles up the rpms. If it’s screwed shut or too far open it doesn’t work right so close it and then thread it open to get proper idle up.
If adjusting that works then you’re all set but if not then you’ll want to check the settings on the idle up unit under the glove box (pita to reach but it changes what rpm the idle kicks up at)
is your ac otherwise working ok? Blowing cold and compressor working?
if not then make sure to recharge ac with coolant at low side port. When it gets low it starts to cycle on off then not do anything.
If its working then make sure your idle is set properly with ac off then turn ac on and adjust the ac idle up valve out so that the truck idles up the rpms. If it’s screwed shut or too far open it doesn’t work right so close it and then thread it open to get proper idle up.
If adjusting that works then you’re all set but if not then you’ll want to check the settings on the idle up unit under the glove box (pita to reach but it changes what rpm the idle kicks up at)
hope this helps a bit
That last bit is false, the dial marked rpm on your AC amplifier sets the minimum engine speed for the AC clutch to actuate.
That other section is sound. You can get a head start on adjusting the idle up by simply bypassing the vsv and adjusting the valve untill you get about 900 rpm on your tachometer. If you've been messing with the rpm knob the next thing todo is disconnect the compressor clutch activation wire and use your volt meter to watch when the clutch wire energizes while turning the knob. Once you've done both of these you crank the air valve out to 1000rpm and can reconnect the AC clutch and remove the vsv by-pass. You should be left with an idle up speed of between 900-1000 rpm when the compressor kicks on.
I wasn't following the thread, this all assumes you have a properly charged system, the low side switch is powering up the vsv, the AC amplifier is grounding the vsv and energizing the AC clutch.
is your ac otherwise working ok? Blowing cold and compressor working?
if not then make sure to recharge ac with coolant at low side port. When it gets low it starts to cycle on off then not do anything.
If its working then make sure your idle is set properly with ac off then turn ac on and adjust the ac idle up valve out so that the truck idles up the rpms. If it’s screwed shut or too far open it doesn’t work right so close it and then thread it open to get proper idle up.
If adjusting that works then you’re all set but if not then you’ll want to check the settings on the idle up unit under the glove box (pita to reach but it changes what rpm the idle kicks up at)
hope this helps a bit
Yes, ac system was replaced about a year ago and everything works blows nice and cold, I did have a problem with the compressor not running at idle which turned out to be the amplifier knob turned up to high not letting the compressor kick on at idle so I turned it all the way down. I did have to turn up the idle to compensate for the idle up not working When the compressor is engaged before I purchased new parts, perhaps The higher idle about 1,000 with the ac off is canceling out the idle up control?
Ok, so I checked for blockages there where none, I hooked up the diaphragm by it self with one line going to both small ports and it idles up, must be the vsv? But it is A brand new Toyota part I checked voltage on the vsv connector and both wires going to the vsv had voltage which I thought was odd, one side 14 volts the other side 5 volts. Is this normal?
Ok, so I checked for blockages there where none, I hooked up the diaphragm by it self with one line going to both small ports and it idles up, must be the vsv? But it is A brand new Toyota part I checked voltage on the vsv connector and both wires going to the vsv had voltage which I thought was odd, one side 14 volts the other side 5 volts. Is this normal?
Don't recall what we are working with but here is the 1st gen page regarding tests at the AC amplifier plug..
Seems wrong. Might be something you can fix with a soldering iron and a new transistor. Looks like the transistor isn't fully closing or has shorted out partially internally or there might be harness damage. 14v - 5v ~= 9v is right on the cusp of switching the vsv I think but there is some other math missing regarding current.
Don't recall what we are working with but here is the 1st gen page regarding tests at the AC amplifier plug..
Seems wrong. Might be something you can fix with a soldering iron and a new transistor. Looks like the transistor isn't fully closing or has shorted out partially internally or there might be harness damage. 14v - 5v ~= 9v is right on the cusp of switching the vsv I think but there is some other math missing regarding current.
1992 22RE in my sig, If I could get a diagram on what to test on the AC amplifier, that would be helpful. Like I mentioned the black knob on the AC amplifier is all the way to the lowest RPM setting. Not sure if that matters. Thanks
I did try hooking the VSV up to the battery and both the new and old one both clicked when energized.
Are you sure the ac idle up actuator is functioning? The round rubber diaphragm inside It will eventually get stiff and/or crack. Couple of ways to test it without taking it off. Turn off engine. Disconnect the vacuum line from the VSV that runs to vacuum port at bottom of diaphragm housing. Only disconnect the end going into VSV. Blow into the vacuum line like your trying to blow up a balloon. Not to much pressure. You should not be able to blow any air into it. If you can blow even a slight bit then ithe rubber diaphragm is cracked and no good. Second you can apply small amount of vacuum with Mityvac or similar (with a gauge) and see if it holds a vacuum. Remember, the bottom side of the idle up actuator is sealed by a diaphragm. No air can get from bottom half to top half or vis versa. There are plenty of pics in this thread of the disassembled actuator.
I don’t really know anything about the ac amplifier knob behind the glove box. My 1994 22re does not have that.
Last edited by twotwore; 08-31-2020 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: Add info
06-12-2019, 07:07 PM
