ABS question in 2nd gen
#1
ABS question in 2nd gen
My brakes suddenly started feeling strange. When stopped at a light, brakes would have a grinding, pulsing feel to them. I'd also hear a strange noise. I checked the brake fluid, all is well. Pads and shoes are plenty fine, vacuum lines all fine.
I pulled the Anti lock Brake ABS fuse and the problem is completely eliminated, drives like a million bucks, brakes are perfect. So, there's the problem. Only thing is that the ABS light is flickering on and off now.
The thing that surprises me, is that when I had my 4.88 third put in, I thought the whole ABS was disabled anyway.
I've got some questions...
1) Is there any reason why suddenly things would start going crazy?
2) Any thoughts on a fix, and
3) Is a fix even necessary? Do I even need the ABS system?
last, I'd like to eliminate the ABS light. If there's an easy light disabler that'd be great.
Thanks so much, hope you're all having a great summer!
taiko
I pulled the Anti lock Brake ABS fuse and the problem is completely eliminated, drives like a million bucks, brakes are perfect. So, there's the problem. Only thing is that the ABS light is flickering on and off now.
The thing that surprises me, is that when I had my 4.88 third put in, I thought the whole ABS was disabled anyway.
I've got some questions...
1) Is there any reason why suddenly things would start going crazy?
2) Any thoughts on a fix, and
3) Is a fix even necessary? Do I even need the ABS system?
last, I'd like to eliminate the ABS light. If there's an easy light disabler that'd be great.
Thanks so much, hope you're all having a great summer!
taiko
#2
Disable the system by unplugging the ABS relay. It is on the passenger fender wall by the fire wall. It says ABS on it. Your light should go out too.
There is also an ABS computer you can pull if you want as well but the relay will disable it. It is tucked up behind the glove box. You can also unplug the actuator. It is mounted on the frame at the front passenger side below the battery. has all the steel hydraulic lines running into it. Just pull the electrical plug off it.
The ABS on these trucks is a joke. You will not see any difference without it.
There is also an ABS computer you can pull if you want as well but the relay will disable it. It is tucked up behind the glove box. You can also unplug the actuator. It is mounted on the frame at the front passenger side below the battery. has all the steel hydraulic lines running into it. Just pull the electrical plug off it.
The ABS on these trucks is a joke. You will not see any difference without it.
Last edited by Flash319; Jun 15, 2010 at 03:59 AM.
#3
Thanks a lot flash319 for your reply! I really appreciate it! Believe it or not, last night I followed your advice and the pics I found on this thread. I pulled the ABS relay (a bit of a pain, it was stuck, had to use pliers to get it off) and then dropped the glove box and easily found the ABS computer. I left it in place and pulled the cable off the computer.
The light is now fully disabled just as you mentioned Flash. I can't believe that the problem was so easy to fix. (I also pulled the ABS fuse).
It was like a night and day difference: my brakes went from being unreliable, "crawling" feeling inside the pedal, a sense of sluggishness and pulsing, to PERFECT. The ABS system must have been completely malfunctioning.
I've heard that repairing the ABS can be an expensive fix, and from what you and others say, it's not necessary. I just want to confirm, that I won't need this in the snow or rain. I have front and rear truetracs that have helped in rain and snow in the past (and...replacing the rear with a 4.88 is when I started having ABS issues anyway).
Last thing is about the actuator: should I find and unplug it, or can I just leave it alone?
Thanks again Flash. I was able to save money by not fixing this, and I'm thrilled by the feel of the brakes and restored accel without the ABS kicking on in small ways all the time. Cheers
The light is now fully disabled just as you mentioned Flash. I can't believe that the problem was so easy to fix. (I also pulled the ABS fuse).
It was like a night and day difference: my brakes went from being unreliable, "crawling" feeling inside the pedal, a sense of sluggishness and pulsing, to PERFECT. The ABS system must have been completely malfunctioning.
I've heard that repairing the ABS can be an expensive fix, and from what you and others say, it's not necessary. I just want to confirm, that I won't need this in the snow or rain. I have front and rear truetracs that have helped in rain and snow in the past (and...replacing the rear with a 4.88 is when I started having ABS issues anyway).
Last thing is about the actuator: should I find and unplug it, or can I just leave it alone?
Thanks again Flash. I was able to save money by not fixing this, and I'm thrilled by the feel of the brakes and restored accel without the ABS kicking on in small ways all the time. Cheers
Last edited by taikowaza; Jun 15, 2010 at 06:13 AM.
#4
I would just leave the rest of the system unless you get a leak or something. The ABS on these trucks run using the power steering pump (hydraulic pressure) instead of modern electric solenoids. So if you get a leak in one of the lines you can now just rip them out.
My experience has shown (I am in Canada so lots of snow) that the rear ABS does nothing (that is all that is on these trucks, rear only). Drum brakes do not react well to modulation, especially with the lack of control with the hydraulic system and the load sensing valve and all the crap they put on does not hep either. You will see no change in performance.
My experience has shown (I am in Canada so lots of snow) that the rear ABS does nothing (that is all that is on these trucks, rear only). Drum brakes do not react well to modulation, especially with the lack of control with the hydraulic system and the load sensing valve and all the crap they put on does not hep either. You will see no change in performance.
Last edited by Flash319; Jun 15, 2010 at 06:58 AM.
#5
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,267
Likes: 1
From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Well put it this way before it started malfunctioning had you EVER felt it kick on before?? I know mine would only do it if I was spinning a brodie in the snow or something. I completely disabled mine after I my SAS and rear leaf swap because it was acting retarded. I just pulled the sensor out of the diff and used a freeze plug to plug it off. I then bolted the sensor back into the same spot it was on the third upside down. It's still back there I think.
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