Kiroshu

FSM actually recommends removal of both cylinder heads with exhaust crossover pipe and exhaust manifolds attached but it requires an assistant(another person).

But patience and wrenches to unbolt everything from the heads in the truck is an option and very possible.

john22rebuilder

Hah so much better with removed. i Dont think you speak from experience Kiroshu.....

john22rebuilder

Not saying it cannot be done but a very unwise choice. Even installing a 4cyl head can you imiagine supporting that weight of a intake and exh manif. Lining up dowels and torquing all down i have heard of it but never done it. I prefer a smooth uninstall with a even better install. Do it right . Do it once.
-John

Kiroshu

I've done three I believe... 3VZE head gasket repairs and from personal experience I remove the exhaust components and then the heads. Was just chiming in on what I saw in the FSM .

Lot of FSM's specify removal of a cylinder head with manifolds attached. A few cylinder heads I have done on cars especially compact cars where there is little room to access the manifold attached to the rear of the cylinder head due to the ever decreasing hood/front ends of late model cars.

It is excessive weight... but most FSM also don't specify the use of "lifting equipment" which in most cases may be necessary.

john22rebuilder

Thanks for clearing that up my bad. So you do agree that it is much easier with crossover off(yes i bolt and torque exhaust manifold only before i do install head(not the crossover ...yet....))?
Sometimes it seems fsm is bs
-John

john22rebuilder

Kiroshu that 99 is STILL down wanna lean into that one a bit plz. While still helping out all these fellows ;-)
Aloha
-John

Cyberman

FSM does NOT recommend removal with the crossover attached. Manifolds, yes. Crossover, no. Just follow the FSM. There is a reason you have to remove what it says.

wrenchmonster

This is such a non-issue. The crossover is easy to access from below. IIRC I used a 1/2" impact with a long extension and an impact swivel socket. Just zip it off and push it back resting on the bellhousing and you're done. The manifolds themselves can stay on the heads.

Is it possible to remove the cylinder heads with the crossover still attached? Maybe, if at least one side were loose. But if the heads are connected and you try to remove one head you're going to be pulling against the other head through the crossover and never be able to clear the dowel pins. But again... Why would you want to do this? Let's say you loosen all 6 nuts so where you are able to get the heads off the dowels, okay... cool. But now you still have to get them out of the truck. The heads both with manifolds and the crossover probably weighs 120lbs. Leaning over and lifting that kinda weight will break your back. So even if is can be done it's stupid. This thread needs to move down the list and forgotten about.

Okay sorry for the rant guys... Hope everyone is having a great day!!!

Cyberman

Just be careful with the impact, or you'll be snapping manifold studs. Been there.

TNyota

OK, got 'em off and back on since I posted. Ended up taking left crossover nuts out, and loosening right side (passenger) but still had to remove the coolant bypass pipe - apparently that is where it was hanging up.

And yes, even if the whole operation did come off together it would still be a bear to get up and out of there.

Did run into one wierd thing, the passenger side head seemed a LOT tighter than the drivers side, last ones in there were Toyota dealer for the HG recall 7 years ago or so.

And yes on the new headbolts, and I would also be dubious about impact tools - I managed to strip an exhaust flange nut, the one on the inside that would be hell to try and chisel out. Thankfully I had one of these handy

[URL="http://www.toolbarn.com/irwin-394001.html?gclid=CJPW45nqr7kCFcvm7AodxmQA9Q"[/URL]

I also bought some looong extentions, drive adapters, universal sockets, and a 24" breaker bar before I started, and ended up using all of them. That 24" Hoss of a breaker was nice to have torquing the head bolts!

Now just gotta put the fan, ignition and plenum back on , click my heels 3 times, hold my breath and crank 'er up.

Cyberman

I hope you didn't over torque your head bolts.

The process is:

1. Torque to 33 ft-lbs in several passes, using the sequence shown in the FSM
2. mark the front of each head bolt.
3. Retighten 90 degrees in numerical order.
4. retighten an additional 90 degrees.

I suppose you would be alright, as long as you made the initial 33 ft-lbs. torque, then used the breaker to finish up.

You guys are using the FSM, right?

TNyota

Cyberman, yes to all, and used copper antisieze to lube them with, copper coat spray on the gaskets, and followed the torque pattern like religion. Weather has improved a lot, so hopefully will finish it all up tonight after work. Vroom-vroom!

wrenchmonster

Concerns about using impacts on rusted or stubborn fasteners becomes less of a concern when you have access to a torch and welder... but I get what you guys are saying. When I said "zip them off" I don't mean that I turn my gun all the way up and hold down on the trigger. In fact, many times I'll start out with my 3/8" gun, and work my way up to the 1/2". I turn the setting down and use a very gentle trigger trying to rattle it loose and get the vibration in there. Sometimes I'll try short bursts. If time allows I'll also walk away and spray it down again with oil and come back tomorrow. But at some point the jobs gotta get done too, and if you break a fastener, then so be it. Especially in a case like this where the manifolds are coming off anyway and you can work on the bench.

Now if I were working only with hand tools I'd have a different approach... If time allowed I'd soak the heck out of them for days on end. I'd get a hammer and a rod and tap on the end of the stud if I could to get vibration in there and let the oil work in. Then I'd try to break it loose. If that didn't work I might think about using a torch if the space allowed and get it cherry hot. It all depends on the situation.

But you guys are right... shame on me for opening my mouth and giving advice when such phrases like "zip them off" can be easily misconstrued. And I'm not trying to be sarcastic here, don't let this statement come off the wrong way. I often forget people on forums have a huge range of experience, skills, and tools available. I don't want my posts to be misunderstood, nor do I want to come off as some guy whose answer is always to get a bigger hammer. If you look at that post I wrote it at 4am, had just been woken up by my dogs, and had a raging headache. Of course you guys can't see that... but my point is I'm sorry for making such a grumpy post, and one that wasn't very helpful.

TNyota

No worries, bro, I sure didn't take it that way. But I do see high power airtools misused a lot, especially in the tire business. I always back off and re-tighten my lug nuts after a trip to the tire store, and it amazes me how tight they can get those damn lug nuts. Fast forward 18 months and it's you on the side of the road, snow and all, trying to break it free with your wimpy little 4-Way, aww hell naw!

Speaking of wide range, I was telling a friend (diesel parts guy) about my RH heads being so hard to break loose, he said they probably got in a hurry and torqued them down with an air wrench. LMAO! I guess that is not so uncommon in some garages, ain't that scary?

dodgerdog63

Did a little work on 95 4x4runner. Got left side crossover nuts off and one nut from right side top. I think I can get to the two on the bottom but other priorities redirect my time. I can hit it tomorrow. Found a guy who will inspect heads for cracks, corrosion, warpage for $50.00 a head in Simi Valley Cal. He also said if it needs machining the total for both heads is $150.00 for all services. He also dips them and checks valves for leakage. Any body have a better rate for the So. Cal area?

dodgerdog63

Team, Finally got heads off. My respect to all that have conquered the cross over monster. I had to air chisel one nut off. First drilled a hole on a hex flat and spit it with a flat blade chisel. Brutal but got it done. Found surface corrosion on cylinder wall. A mechanic friend said not to worry, mostly surface. Rotated piston and most of it went away. Will be addressed further. Taking heads to machine shop today.
Just want to thank everyone for helping me with useful tips. Looking to be operational by Thanksgiving or sooner. Ray

Kiroshu

Good Deal.