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95 4Runner V-6 won't start-

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Old 06-30-2010, 07:32 PM
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95 4Runner V-6 won't start-

i have a big problem i have a 1995 4runner 3vze here is the last set of repairs made on the truck......
fuel pump,
fuel lines,
fuel filter ,
spark plugs
wires,
cold air intake,
ignition coil,

the truck wont start i dont get it, it has spark cause it will try to start on starter fluid, when i pop the cold start line it has fuel, something strange is when you turn the key there is no fuel being pumped, but when the engine cranks there is gas, any thoughts, could this be a relay issue, it almost seems like the injectors arn't getting a signal..... please any thoughts are appreciated.....
Old 06-30-2010, 07:38 PM
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have you checked you fuses
Old 06-30-2010, 07:44 PM
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ran through all the fuses tonite, only issue is that the one of the efi fuses/relays i cant get out of the box.... everything looks good on the fuses short of that one.... it is just over my head this is the 4th night i have spent 6 plus hour nites and the damn thing still isnt running
Old 06-30-2010, 07:46 PM
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i wish i could be more help man but i aint to good with fuel injection

but good luck hope you get it all fixed
Old 06-30-2010, 08:14 PM
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have you tried jumping the relay? i had a similar problem too took the efi relay out and held a screw driver in there and jumped the connection. can you hear the pump kick when you turn they key?
Old 06-30-2010, 08:17 PM
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edited your thread title to something a little more relavant...that one you had could have let to your thread being deleted...hope you find the issue...sounds like fuel pump..
Old 06-30-2010, 08:17 PM
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i think i hear the pump kicking in, when you say jump the relay is this the black efi relay under the hood? the fuel pump is brand new and i have fuel pressure after i crank, but when i turn the key just before it starts cranking the the line does not pressurize

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Old 06-30-2010, 08:27 PM
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The AFM gives the fuel pump the signal to turn on. When mine went I had similar symptoms. Use a jumper on the diagnostic port under the hood and jump B+ and Fp. This takes the AFM out of the loop. Try to start the truck again. If it starts then either your AFM or wiring for it is faulty. I was able to drive mine like this while I sourced a replacement. It is a little dangerous because if you get in an accident the fuel pump will continue to run as opposed to shutting off with the engine.

Good luck

Jason
Old 07-01-2010, 07:55 PM
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ok... so tonite jumped the diagnostic port on the on the B+ and Fp , i was wrong in my previous statement about the fuel pump kicking on, it would only pressurize on the crank, but when the key would turn it would not pressurize, now when you turn the key with out starting the truck you can hear the fuel pump turn on when the DP is jumped, still truck will not start, tried starter fluid, it tries to start on the fluid but will not fully start, i checked the relays, the efi relay under the hood when opened up looks gold not copper, the circuit open relay looks ok and im hearing it click when i try to start, any thoughts on this point, im so stressed out im about ready to flip out, as always any thoughts are appreciated
Old 07-10-2010, 11:52 AM
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ok... so tonite jumped the diagnostic port on the on the B+ and Fp , i was wrong in my previous statement about the fuel pump kicking on, it would only pressurize on the crank, but when the key would turn it would not pressurize, now when you turn the key with out starting the truck you can hear the fuel pump turn on when the DP is jumped, still truck will not start, tried starter fluid, it tries to start on the fluid but will not fully start, i checked the relays, the efi relay under the hood when opened up looks gold not copper, the circuit open relay looks ok and im hearing it click when i try to start, any thoughts on this point, im so stressed out im about ready to flip out, as always any thoughts are appreciated
Old 07-15-2010, 08:14 PM
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I am going through the exact same problem myself. Did you ever come up with a solution? I am only on my 3rd night messing with this.
Old 07-15-2010, 09:08 PM
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talking to a master tech at my local dealer he's saying its the AFM im ordering it in the morning and will repost with results, i should have it in approx 2 days, i have pretty much exhausted all other options if you come up with any solutions let me know thanks
Old 07-16-2010, 04:56 AM
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Please do post your results. I tried everything I know....checked ohms on relays, fuel pressure to the rail, checked all fuses, etc. All of my relays check out with the ohm meter, and just like yours, mine will start with starter fluid. It's like my injectors are not spraying fuel in the cylinders. There are some really smart mechanics on this site. I am a little surprised that someone hasn't given you some tips yet.

I would like to track it down backwards, but I don't have the info to do it. I checked all of the relays and cold start injector with the ohm meter, but I would like to check the power going to them and back track to see where the power IS NOT COMING FROM. You know what I mean? I could be wrong, but it seems like just because the relays and such check out with the ohm meter doesn't mean they are working. Is there a way to back track to see what the problems is?
Old 07-16-2010, 06:30 AM
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You never mentioned if it ran fine before you changed out the parts in the original post, or if you did, I missed it.

DId it?
Old 07-16-2010, 09:20 AM
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Mine stopped running. I tested the fuel pump and it was not working, so I replaced it. The pump works now, but the car will not start. It seems like a relay, but they all tested good with the ohm meter per the manuals I have. Bigmc above, I have fuel being pumped to the rails and cold start injector, but it doesn't seem to be making it in the cylinder.

Any ideas?
Old 07-19-2010, 05:01 PM
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yeah it ran fine all up until it died... i got the AFM for it and installed it, still no change, im almost wondering if the plugs are fouled, but i have exhausted all options i have a call into Toyota to see if they can get it in to look at it its probably something simple and i just made it way more expensive than it really was, i replaced the cold air with the original air intake thinking it may be the amount of air tripping up the ecu no change any thoughts
Old 10-14-2010, 09:04 PM
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Exclamation same issues

so i just finished up on my lovely 3vze head gaskets. initially fired up running rough. seemed like only 2 cylinders. i attributed this to timing. purchased inductive timing light. now i have no signal from cyl #1 when trying to test for timing signal. crank no start. still crank no start. ran thru ignition components. was worried one of sensors on distributor was failed. tested all but pcm. everything says igniter. ordered today. 302 plus tax from stealership. 305 a/m. will try pin test on pcm, but doubtful it is failed. any suggestions for me as well? also what was end result on original concern? curious to know.

btw, new cap rotor wires iridium plugs, etc etc. everything but shortblock and w58 trans is new is new.

Last edited by 954toy; 10-14-2010 at 09:05 PM.
Old 10-15-2010, 09:23 AM
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I should have some results soon, i just got the truck towed on wednesday, it is sitting at the dealership as we speak, also in talking to the prior owner of the truck he told me the truck was really touchy when it came to the spark plugs, he told me to put the old plugs back in the truck, removed the cold air intake and put the denso plugs back in the truck, i will post results when i get the call back,
Old 10-15-2010, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bigmckinney
i think i hear the pump kicking in, when you say jump the relay is this the black efi relay under the hood? the fuel pump is brand new and i have fuel pressure after i crank, but when i turn the key just before it starts cranking the the line does not pressurize
Sounds normal:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#FuelPump
Old 10-16-2010, 12:01 AM
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Do you have a check engine light when you turn the ignition key to the on position?
If not there could be a problem with the VAFM unit.
That's the round thing that is on top of the air filter.
It has a couple of jobs in the ignition and fuel circuits, and can really cause pain.
If you take the plug off of it, you can use a multimeter to test it according to the chart in the Toyota service manual.
The plug is held on by a wire snap. DO NOT REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS.
If you do remove the two screws you will damage the delicate mechanism inside.
Don't ask me how I know this.

Art


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