Hello. My 94 pickup's AC is no longer blowing cold air. (I haven't used it in over a year and a half). I have a few questions. If I use the inlet adapter to charge my AC with r134, is there a ball park figure on how long my seals will last? I've heard that it will eventually destroy them. Will one 12oz can of r134 be enough? I'm not going to spend very much money on this at all.

I'm not very mechanically inclined at all, so any info other than attaching the adapter and using a 12oz can of r134a w/ gauge would be greatly appreciated, no matter how obvious!

 

You would be wasting your time.

#1 if there is currently no refrigerent in the system it most likley leaked out which means that if you put more in that it will leak out again.

#2 if you have a leak, the system should be put into a vacuum to get the moisture out of the system before adding more refrigerent.

#3 you cannot mix R134a with the oil used for R12 or you will cause a big mess and mine as well just rip the system out now.

They sell stuff that is only allowed in certain states that can be used instead of R12 and mix with it, I think it is called Freeze12.

 

Thanks. I'm looking into es-12a now

 

Filling your leaking AC system with propane (ES-12A) seems safe.

 

Agreed


There is no cheap way to fix your a/c if you want it to blow cold longer than a week or two. Fix the true problem and go through the proper steps or your just throwing money in the fire

 

Well damn, my 3 windows will have to do. One last question. When I bought my truck, the AC worked. It had a head gasket blow, I had it replaced, and then the next time I used the AC (few months later), it wasn't cold anymore... Coincidence? Right?

 

The previous owner probably did what you want to do. He charged it but didn't fix the true problem and all the freon leaked out

 

Thanks for the help guys. F that ac.

 

If you were near me I would help ya fix it..... I own all the tools required. They do make a R-134a that is compatible with with the older R-12 oils.

 

Thanks for the offer, but Can you elaborat on the compatible 134? All I can come up with is that when you combine the two, chlorine is created, which will then eat up seals. I've spent several hours trying to find a cheap way out.

 

I have a buddy who works at a shop with a vacuum for removing the old crap, and Im pretty sure I can use it for cheap/free. If that helps anyone in helping me.

 

If your truck is set up for R12 to fix it correctly you must first figure out what the true problem is like a leak, compressor, etc. Fix that problem then replace the orings, dryer, expansion valve, and old R12 oil with new 134A compatible oil, evacuate the system, and charge with the appropriate amount of 134A.

This is the right way to fix the problem otherwise your wasting your money.
If it was me I would keep it R12 these trucks cool much better with R12 due to the small size of the condensers.

 

Thanks! But r12 is no longer for sale unless you have a license.. right?

 

I do believe you can still get it but it is very expensive. And after my conversion and ac upgrade I'm glad I didn't due to going through a couple compressors and having to recharge more than once.

 

Yes a license is needed. I paid $70 per lb. but If I remember correctly my 4runner only took 1.5 - 1.75lbs.. I feel it was worth the extra money. It blows ice cubes now.

 

freeze 12 will work.

 

" Note: Friends. The Freeze-12 brand has been discontinued this year. Please try our more popular, more energy efficient, and less expensive brand, Enviro-Safe ES-12a and Industrial 12a"

so, es-12a is a rolling bomb, freeze 12 is discontinued, I guess I'm going to try and find some r12.

Conquistador, you got your r12 from a mechanic? No legal or grey area involved? I don't have much of a problem breaking a few laws, but getting someone else to to it might. I can get it serviced in fl or ga if that helps...

 

Yes I got the R12 from a local a/c repair shop I worked at for about 7yrs during my younger years. I haven't worked there in about a decade. I did they repairs my self and had them evacuate and charge the system.

My total repair cost about $250. I got very lucky I just need a new AC idle up valve, new fan clutch, had a leaky shreader valve, and some freon.

If I was in your position I would take it to a shop that specializes in automotive a/c and have them diagnose the problems and do the repair yourself. The normal charge for a diagnoses should be $50-$75.

Once the repairs have been completed take it back to the shop and have them evac and charge the system. Or you can do it yourself if you have gauges, a vacuum pump, and freon.

 

Thanks bud