http://web.archive.org/web/201101022...emci/eng2r.pdf

 

I think this is what u want in the post above.

 

YEP, looks like it...
If you have fuel at CSI, and you have spark, quite possible that injectors are not firing. I suggest you get the "noid" light like skebe22RTE mentioned ^^^. Terry87 discusses the noid light on his thread. If you don't have the light, yet, you may just be able to check for wiring problem as follows:

Injector power comes from ignition switch IG2 to a splice somewhere near intake manifold, to positive side of injectors, then from negative side of injectors, to another splice near intake manifold, then eventually to pins 10 and 20 of ECU.
ECU pins 10 and 20 connect the negative side of injectors to ground. Any break along this line would prevent injectors from firing.

Splices near intake manifold are usual suspects. They could corrode or get brittle from extreme conditions.

(Pardon the Capitals just copied what I had on graphics)

DISCONNECT CONNECTOR FROM ECU.
IGNITION ON. VOLT SETTING ON VOLT-METER
NEGATIVE (BLACK) PROBE ON BODY GROUND
POSITIVE (RED) PROBE TO WHITE-RED WIRE THAT WENT TO PIN 10
THERE SHOULD BE 12VOLTS.
WIGGLE HARNESS THAT LEAD TO INJECTORS NEAR INTAKE MANIFOLD. YOU SHOULD NOT LOSE 12 VOLTS.
IF NOT 12 VOLTS, FOLLOW WIRE BACK TO INJECTORS, THEN PAST INJECTORS TO IGNITION SWITCH CONTACT IG2 UNTIL YOU SEE WHERE YOU LOS 12VOLTS.
DO SAME WITH WHITE WIRE.

You will need to peel off the harness tape in order to access those splices.

 

that's a very good write-up rad! did you figure out the problem redneck?

 

heh-heh. Tnx, Dude.
Common issue. Right after I picked up my truck from engine rebuild, it kept on sputtering and stalling. Mechs found that issue right away.
It would be nice if the harness were better insulated from the extreme heat there. Maybe a silicon sleeve.

 

or seal it better from water causing corrosion maybe?

 

Ok heres what I done, I changed the electrical part of the ignition switch because I had already bought it. It changed nothing. When I changed it the first time I turned the key it started right up. I cut it off and it wouldn't start back. It was still turning over so I reached around the manifold and started shaking wires to see if something may be loose,so now it doesn't turn over anymore. Now all I hear is the Open circuit relay click and something under the manifold click.Will start checking wires again tommorrow.

 

so let me get this straight... you first said you're having a "crank no start" symptom... now it's a no crank at all? either something's not adding up or you have 2 problems. I'd chase the no crank problem first, obviously... i would check the small wire going to the starter for 12v while it's not starting. so you put a volt meter on the small wire to the starter (while this problem is happening) and you crank, if you're getting 12v's, your starter's bad, if you're not, you should start tracing wires. it's a common problem that the wire going to the starter relay gets corroded and won't transfer the power to the relay... let us know what you find, thanks!

 

Ok I have unwraped all the wires from the fire wall to the MAF and have found no broken wires or bad splices. We took an ohm meter and checked most of the wires from the ECU to the MAF and a few other places. We checked the wire at ECU to injectors and we had 12 volts. the no crank problem we think is the small wire to the starter came loose. I have all wires untaped,the ECU out,and the Manifold flipped over so I could see all wires.Is their anything else to try before putting it back together.