94 4Runner electricial issue
#1
94 4Runner electricial issue
I have a 3.0L I completely redid the motor on in 2009. This month I put on the new Old Man Emu coil Springs and new shocks, no more sag in the back end. It rides like a champ. I will get some pics posted soon. I only have one more bug. The passenger side rear window doesn't roll up or down from the master switch or the door switch. I pulled the regulator and motor out and tested it on the front window, it works. Pulled the switch from the front and put it on the back and both switches are good. Been through the wiring and nothing broken or loose. Changed out the driver side master control with a known good working one. Any idea where I can start to fix my bug?
#2
Registered User
The rear window control box is behind the driver side storage box at the back. Also, if the rear wiper is not parked the window will not operate. Does the defroster work? While you're in there you can also wire up a switch that is powered all the time (like the key switch on the outside) for convenience. I have mine hidden in the back compartment and it's come in handy a few times.
#3
Arear wiper defroster and rear window in the tailgate works fine. I am talking about the passenger side window for the back seat passengers. I currently have it working from the switch by splicing all the red wires together. I do have kids and I need master control over that window. The window lock does work to keep my son from playing with the window.
#4
Registered User
My bad. Didn't see the Passenger part earlier. I've repaired quite a few wires between the door and the body that worked intermittently and not at all. You should be able to hook up a multimeter to test the wires since the switches all test good.
#5
my test light shows I am getting power. manually checked all the wiring and I hooked up my buddy's continuity tester (I think is what it is called?). It check the wiring between the connections, the wiring is good and not broken. from the connector behind the passenger side seat belt to the plugs in the door weird though. because if I hook the switch back up normally, I can roll the window down but not up from the door, master control still doesn't work. the window worked intermittently when I bought the truck several years ago.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
You swapped the rear motor and regulator to the front door and it worked fine raising and lowering the window??
If you just moved it with out any resistance good chance the motor is on the way out spins in a no load condition.
Easy way to test window motors and regulators is with a 12 volt power supply or battery right at the window motor plug.
it is really time to get a multimeter to see just what voltage is getting to the motor.
You did clean and lube the regulator and the window channel??
Could be corrosion on the switch contacts from not working for years.
If you just moved it with out any resistance good chance the motor is on the way out spins in a no load condition.
Easy way to test window motors and regulators is with a 12 volt power supply or battery right at the window motor plug.
it is really time to get a multimeter to see just what voltage is getting to the motor.
You did clean and lube the regulator and the window channel??
Could be corrosion on the switch contacts from not working for years.
#7
There is a ground wire that goes from the window switch through the loom into the center post between the doors, Two connectors to the wiring harness and breaks out and is bolted down to the body.
I cant remember correctly but it might use the same bolt that holds the front seat belt retractor or around there.
Check for it, Sometimes it gets cut or rusted.
I cant remember correctly but it might use the same bolt that holds the front seat belt retractor or around there.
Check for it, Sometimes it gets cut or rusted.
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#8
The window works from the swich in the door just not my master control. I did lube it up when I put it back in. I did swap the switches and both run the front window fine. There is plenty resistance with the motor and regulator to hold the window up. I can't push it down by hand and the battery trick rolled the window up and down juat fine.
Last edited by KingsShadow; 11-16-2013 at 03:33 PM.
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
So it comes down to a open circuit in your Master Switch for that window.
Could be the switch contacts??
Could be damage in the wire harness going to that window
Could be a poor connection at any of the plugs
Could very well be a broken wire .
You just need to trace things check from connection to the next one don`t go poking holes in wires.
As the control from the Master switch goes through the switch on the right rear door.
If you check for voltage at the RH rear door switch with ignition switch on
the red/ yellow wire is up red/blue is down the blue/red is the ground and grounds through the door relay The Door relay is up behind the dash to the left of the steering wheel
I would try and clean the connection at the switch with contact cleaner after checking if voltage is there.
Could be the switch contacts??
Could be damage in the wire harness going to that window
Could be a poor connection at any of the plugs
Could very well be a broken wire .
You just need to trace things check from connection to the next one don`t go poking holes in wires.
As the control from the Master switch goes through the switch on the right rear door.
If you check for voltage at the RH rear door switch with ignition switch on
the red/ yellow wire is up red/blue is down the blue/red is the ground and grounds through the door relay The Door relay is up behind the dash to the left of the steering wheel
I would try and clean the connection at the switch with contact cleaner after checking if voltage is there.
#10
For anyone else that reads this. Thnks wyoming9, big help. I called the dealer and the guy I usually talk to wasn't in, probably had the day off, so they had me talk to someone else. He said everything runs through the driver window switch on these "vintage" Toyotas. Probably had carbin build up, so to disassemble the master switch and take emery cloth or 400 grit sand paper and make the contacts nice and shiny again. Did that and still had the same problem. Went to bed and thought about it, then it hit me. Everything in that door works properly, yet everything runs through the driver side door. Pull the loom back and check it out. Low and behold there were two broken wires staring me in the face. Fixed them and everything works. Thanks again wyoming9, for sticking through my pig headedness and stupid questions.
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